laverda
Well-known member
That's good to know. How can it best e used with a RO/DI system? Is the amonia produced enough to be a concern?
Drastic Measures! Pirates Cove 400 Reboot!
- Thread starter pciscott
- Start date
That's good to know. How can it best e used with a RO/DI system? Is the amonia produced enough to be a concern?
79chopperdr
I killed ALL that Coral!
So sorry to hear this, I had nearly the exact same experience this spring. I ended losing almost all the SPS, while everything else thrived. I believe it was a combo of bacterial and AEFW. Well keep your head up, i did a similar reboot and now the tank is bouncing back nicely. Good luck too you.
Sorry to hear about the trouble Scott.
swnoob...last time I had a similar issue just like the pictures you posted it was because of rust. Some corals still looked amazing and had great PE and some looked like they were dying slowly inside out with pruny looking skin. All parameters were stable and spot on. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me so I ripped everything apart. Turned out it was the magnet from a small koralia pump I kept in the sump for water movement. The magnet on it split and it was leaching.
I used vitamin c ascorbic acid powder buffer during new water change and that helped.
Now I keep equipment to a minimal, especially anything that can potentially rust to minimize the potential hit. Return pump, skimmer and 2 mp40s and that's it. I actually got paranoid after reading this post last night and took out the mp40s to inspect magnets and soaked them in vinegar lol
Hope you guys are able to get things back to normal.
swnoob...last time I had a similar issue just like the pictures you posted it was because of rust. Some corals still looked amazing and had great PE and some looked like they were dying slowly inside out with pruny looking skin. All parameters were stable and spot on. Couldn't figure it out for the life of me so I ripped everything apart. Turned out it was the magnet from a small koralia pump I kept in the sump for water movement. The magnet on it split and it was leaching.
I used vitamin c ascorbic acid powder buffer during new water change and that helped.
Now I keep equipment to a minimal, especially anything that can potentially rust to minimize the potential hit. Return pump, skimmer and 2 mp40s and that's it. I actually got paranoid after reading this post last night and took out the mp40s to inspect magnets and soaked them in vinegar lol
Hope you guys are able to get things back to normal.
Bartdrewniak
New member
Would a Red Sea test kit for iron be able to pick up any excess rust ? I'm not a chemist
Rust! I did have a clip on lamp lighting my fuge and i noticed the clip part starting to rust. Maybe it has been slowly flaking off and falling in my sump. It was never submerged in water. All pumps have been checked and no rust has been found.
Started my own thread in the sps discussion as to not derail Scotts thread.
Good luck Scott. i hope you resolve the issue soon and share with us your findings.
Sodium thiosulfate is available at Amazon and at pool supply stores. This is the major component of many water conditioners. You CAN make a solution and use this to neutralize chlorine and chloramine, but the solution has a shelf life and I have lost fish in the past when doing large water changes and liquid sodium thiosulfate, even in excess. For at least the past 5 years, I have only used crystalline sodium thiosulfate and believe that using crystals or powder is much more effective and also a lot easier since you don't need to be concerned about shelf life of liquid.
There is a chart here
http://www.edspumps.com/water-treatment/documents/Antichlorination.pdf
that can be used to calculate the required amount for chlorine. Some sites claim that you need 7 parts of sodium thiosulfate for each part of chloramine, but I seriously doubt this. Since we are dealing with trace amounts of chloramine that have gotten past your carbon filters and RO membrane, I think that a few fold excess should be adequate. As the chart shows, you only need a few grams for even large amounts of water since 5 ppm is the maximum that the water districts say that they use.
Have you ever tried to measure the chloramine or chlorine in your RO water?
macdaddynick1
Member
Recently I've had the same issue with the same type of dieoff, needless to say it was the rodi issue. Growth in some acros stops completely, some acros get burnt tips, or stn from the base, other acros are growing and have the nicest PE, that's what I've observed. (Red dragon is usually the first one to leave the party when you have the rodi issue, or chloramine then go birdsnest) funny thing is Vivid had the same issue in their tank and their corals reacted exactly like mine, down to the space invader pectinia, surprisingly that coral gets burnt tips too. Someone told me that my RODI was the issue when the problems started, but of course I'm the smartest guy around and I ruled that out immediately, checked my tds it was at O, and went on chasing ghosts for a while, bacteria, ph, alkalinity, light, you name it. After going a full circle of course , a buddy of mine told me to put some prime in you topoff water or any w/c water. I found it to be a great test for this type of issue. As soon as I put some prime in my topoff the stn stopped. The corals still looked somewhat crappy but I can see that the corals no longer stn at night, and the burnt tips didn't recede further. That's where I knew I had to replace all of my filters. After replacing filters and doing a large water change with some new water. All of the corals began to recover. 2 brs chloramine blocks and 2 di filters cost about as much as one triton test. Hope you have the same issue so you can fix it quickly.
macdaddynick1
Member
https://youtu.be/IgDHBcZIlv4 this is how my corals were dying when I've had the issue
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
dodgerblew
Team RC
Expecting my chloromine filter from Spectrapure tomorrow and will immediately put online on next round of making water. I already use prime for my planted tank and will start using this as well when making my water change water.
Did your water test positive for chloramines?
I have a test kit on its way but would prefer not to add anything to my rodi if not necessary. One less thing to maintain would be good thing.
You mentioned red dragon as a good indicator for you. My red dragon is actually the fastest growing coral in the tank and not showing any signs of stress.
JMLewis
Member
I'm pretty excited in reading your posts, some of my corals are having the exact same issues and look exactly like yours in the video. Like you said it's like chasing a ghost. Some corals look great and have good PE and some are doing exactly like yours in the video. Added a bird nest frag last week and it's almost completely stn at this point. I did a 15% WC Saturday and one today trying to battle this "ghost issue".
I'm gonna go put some prime in my ATO container right now, should I add some to the tank too because of the recent water changes?
Are you quite sure about that? Their web site talks quite a bit about chloramines and the use of chlorine in Southern California for disinfection is disfavored because chlorine reacts with hydrocarbons present in the water to generate trihalomethanes, which are toxic and regulated. I'd ask GSW for their annual water quality report and check for myself....
Chlorine chart
Chlorine chart
If anyone is interested, I made this calculator based on various web sources. The chart shows how much sodium thiosulfate in kg is required to neutralize bleach at the indicated ppm. Below are some calculators that you can use to customize for your system, whether it is neutralizing chlorine/chloramine in the water supply, to sterilize water/equipment, or to neutralize the chlorine after use.
Chlorine chart
If anyone is interested, I made this calculator based on various web sources. The chart shows how much sodium thiosulfate in kg is required to neutralize bleach at the indicated ppm. Below are some calculators that you can use to customize for your system, whether it is neutralizing chlorine/chloramine in the water supply, to sterilize water/equipment, or to neutralize the chlorine after use.
miralami
Member
Gsw
Gsw
I spoke with them 2 weeks ago and this is what they told me.
Please share your finding and we can plan accordingly.
Gsw
I spoke with them 2 weeks ago and this is what they told me.
Please share your finding and we can plan accordingly.
http://www.gswater.com/westorangecountyccr/
Scroll down to where the water report talks about chloramine. While GSW may not add chloramines themselves, they acknowledge that these are in water they purchase....
Scroll down to where the water report talks about chloramine. While GSW may not add chloramines themselves, they acknowledge that these are in water they purchase....
pciscott
Pirates Cove Reef
I am going to stabilize my make up water and top off water as a good measure, ordered 10 lbs of sodium thiosulfate on Amazon. With that said a Chlorine test on my fresh water shows no Chlorine, so I do not think this is my problem. I do think is is something bacterial and my corals look better in Jorge's tank after fresh cutting all the bad stuff off.
I still am not sure what is up? On a note I was dosing 25mils of Acropower per day took offline yesterday do to less coral load. Do not think this had anything to do with it, but wanted to let Swnoob know as he mentioned he was using that product.
I am still unsure and have not pinned anything down, it will be 2 weeks before I have time to clean out my sump and service all my pumps to see if I have any rust.
FYI Rust is not Iron it is all the other impurities in cheap metal and magnets, a rusty magnet or any metal dissolving in tank can create all kinds of problems. Feeding magnets, glass cleaners left in tank, pump magnets, Vortech circular magnets, pump magnets, Probe magnets or any that show even a trace of rust should be pulled from your system.
I showed a little copper in my tank a few years back and found a Gyre that had cable split at top that was putting rust in tank under mount so this is something I keep an eye out for as I love the flow of these pumps and the original wire had a UV problem and split over time, pretty sure they have this issue fixed.
Let me know if you figure anything out and the filament type polyp extension and corals dieing from a small circle of death that spread is exactly what was going on with my tank.
I still am not sure what is up? On a note I was dosing 25mils of Acropower per day took offline yesterday do to less coral load. Do not think this had anything to do with it, but wanted to let Swnoob know as he mentioned he was using that product.
I am still unsure and have not pinned anything down, it will be 2 weeks before I have time to clean out my sump and service all my pumps to see if I have any rust.
FYI Rust is not Iron it is all the other impurities in cheap metal and magnets, a rusty magnet or any metal dissolving in tank can create all kinds of problems. Feeding magnets, glass cleaners left in tank, pump magnets, Vortech circular magnets, pump magnets, Probe magnets or any that show even a trace of rust should be pulled from your system.
I showed a little copper in my tank a few years back and found a Gyre that had cable split at top that was putting rust in tank under mount so this is something I keep an eye out for as I love the flow of these pumps and the original wire had a UV problem and split over time, pretty sure they have this issue fixed.
Let me know if you figure anything out and the filament type polyp extension and corals dieing from a small circle of death that spread is exactly what was going on with my tank.
SchnitzelReef
Active member
Drastic Measures! Pirates Cove 400 Reboot!
Man what a bummer..Last I heard your tank was doing great.
I added a chloramine filter to my ro/di a few years ago just in case. But I imagine it would have to be a lot of chlorine in the water to get past your ro/di and really affect the tank.
25mls of acro power a day sounds crazy high to me. All these magic potions we are adding to our tanks could be potential problems. Just makes me wonder if that was part of your problem.(and of course aefw didn't help) People have had crazy success for years and years with no magic potions...I jumped on the magic potion bandwagon for awhile, and recently stopped dosing all but one product, and my corals looks just as great. That's why I call them magic potions now. Haha
Whenever your tank is ready, let me know and I can get you a nice frag pack. Hope things turn around for your tank. [emoji1303]
Man what a bummer..Last I heard your tank was doing great.
I added a chloramine filter to my ro/di a few years ago just in case. But I imagine it would have to be a lot of chlorine in the water to get past your ro/di and really affect the tank. 25mls of acro power a day sounds crazy high to me. All these magic potions we are adding to our tanks could be potential problems. Just makes me wonder if that was part of your problem.(and of course aefw didn't help) People have had crazy success for years and years with no magic potions...I jumped on the magic potion bandwagon for awhile, and recently stopped dosing all but one product, and my corals looks just as great. That's why I call them magic potions now. Haha
Whenever your tank is ready, let me know and I can get you a nice frag pack. Hope things turn around for your tank. [emoji1303]
JMLewis
Member
So after reading some of these posts and having the exact same symptoms I added Prime to my ATO and a little bit to my DT 2 nights ago.
I just got home from work and I'm extatic! It's not a lot but I'm seeing polyp extension on the tips of corals that I haven't seen since a week after putting em in there a few weeks back. Some of the tips were getting close to dying almost like ALK burn but much slower and I can see them darkening up. This was only happening to about 30% of my frags at various depths. And after only 2 days I can definitely say I see improvement!
I don't remember if you said you had done something already to prevent chloramine from entering your tank, but I wanted to share this in hopes that it could help for your redo! Looks like I'll be ordering the BRS chloramine monster.
I just got home from work and I'm extatic! It's not a lot but I'm seeing polyp extension on the tips of corals that I haven't seen since a week after putting em in there a few weeks back. Some of the tips were getting close to dying almost like ALK burn but much slower and I can see them darkening up. This was only happening to about 30% of my frags at various depths. And after only 2 days I can definitely say I see improvement!
I don't remember if you said you had done something already to prevent chloramine from entering your tank, but I wanted to share this in hopes that it could help for your redo! Looks like I'll be ordering the BRS chloramine monster.
macdaddynick1
Member
Nice! The prime is a really good test. Glad it helped. If prime makes the difference it means your filters need replacing, that's how I see it. And at that point I really don't care whether it's a chloramine problem or not 15 bucks per filter block at brs is nbd compared to watching all the acros that are dying .
