Drilling tank for sump

[PAXpress]

Good morning everyone, I'll link to a previous thread to help with some info. http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2575276
What I'm thinking of doing is drilling my 75g tank for a sump. I'm looking at either the ruby trigger systems 30" (or 36" if it will fit. Will measure again tonight to be sure.
I'd like to know how big should I drill the holes, how many(I assume just two?), and how far from the top should I drill them? Any and all advice appreciated. I'm going to ensure that its not tempered once its broken down and empty. Hard to see if it is tempered or not but I'm pretty sure it isn't. Will be sure after I break it down. Thanks!

 

[SALTYwaterDOG]

What type of overflow do you plan on installing. And you might want to drill your return in as well

 

[PAXpress]

What type of overflow do you plan on installing. And you might want to drill your return in as well

So I recently purchased an 1800 gph Internal Overflow box to install. Along with bulkheads and aquarium silicone. I'm fairly certain the bulkheads are 1" that came with (it was a bundle of overflow box drill bit drill guide and bulkheads). It makes sense that I should drill the return as well. Sounds like I'll need one more bulkhead. Should I drill the same size for simplicity or should the return be a different size of the overflow? Also what kind of tubing should I use and what pump should I purchase for this as well? (links would be helpful) Also how would I attached the tubing to the bulkheads? Sorry I'm real new at this...

 

[Bent]

Heres my opinion.

1: your drain size is going to have to be sized to your return pump. What kind of drain are you doing? herbie, bean or single or double durso? I would probably bet that 1" drains would be plenty, unless you are using some crazy return pump. Plumbing a bean is kind of a gold standard these days, but if you don't have room a herbie will do in a pinch.

2: If you are drilling your returns as well, since its pretty hard to find 1" or bigger loc line, I would drill the same hole for the return as you would for the 1" bulkhead (if that's what you go with) and then you can use a 3/4" sch 80 bulkhead that will fit the 1" hole. Like this:
http://glass-holes.com/3-4-Thread-x-Thread-Bulkhead-Schedule-80-FT1143.htm
This way you wont have to buy a second bit to drill one lousy hole.

3: I like to use a general rule for plumbing the return pump of 1.5x the pump fittings. So if the pump is outfit with 1" fittings, then you would use 1.5" plumbing all the way up to your bulkhead, where it would be ok to reduce it to get into the tank since your locline is probably going to be 3/4" regardless.

4: make sure you place your holes at least 1.5x the distance of the last hole, or edge of the glass plate (even the top). This way there is enough material to maintain the integrity of the glass between the holes. Otherwise it could/would crack.

5: make sure you terminate the ends of your return nozzles as near the surface as you can get them (can be accomplished with a length of locline.) This way when the power goes out, there wont be much water back siphoned to the sump and it wont over flow.

6: Use a gate valve on the siphon line, not a ball valve. and place the gate valve as close to the sump as possible.

7: On both the siphon line and the return lines, keep the elbows, fittings and horizontal runs to a minimum. On the siphon line it will cause it to have problems restarting the siphon by trapping air in the system, and on the return line it will severely kill your pump output. My suggestion is to use flex PVC as much as possible where you need some turns instead of using elbows or 45s. The more gradual the better.

8: Though Ive done it for years without issue, no one recommends anymore using PTFE tape (Teflon tape) on PVC pipe threads, your supposed to use pvc specific paste to seal the joints.

grab a beer, sit down and watch these, they explain things pretty well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1tAnhIGpgA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9OCuUFg_lk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVFZtmXX6ck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaDDKNA4cn0

 

[PAXpress]

Heres my opinion.

1: your drain size is going to have to be sized to your return pump. What kind of drain are you doing? herbie, bean or single or double durso? I would probably bet that 1" drains would be plenty, unless you are using some crazy return pump. Plumbing a bean is kind of a gold standard these days, but if you don't have room a herbie will do in a pinch.

2: If you are drilling your returns as well, since its pretty hard to find 1" or bigger loc line, I would drill the same hole for the return as you would for the 1" bulkhead (if that's what you go with) and then you can use a 3/4" sch 80 bulkhead that will fit the 1" hole. Like this:
http://glass-holes.com/3-4-Thread-x-Thread-Bulkhead-Schedule-80-FT1143.htm
This way you wont have to buy a second bit to drill one lousy hole.

3: I like to use a general rule for plumbing the return pump of 1.5x the pump fittings. So if the pump is outfit with 1" fittings, then you would use 1.5" plumbing all the way up to your bulkhead, where it would be ok to reduce it to get into the tank since your locline is probably going to be 3/4" regardless.

4: make sure you place your holes at least 1.5x the distance of the last hole, or edge of the glass plate (even the top). This way there is enough material to maintain the integrity of the glass between the holes. Otherwise it could/would crack.

5: make sure you terminate the ends of your return nozzles as near the surface as you can get them (can be accomplished with a length of locline.) This way when the power goes out, there wont be much water back siphoned to the sump and it wont over flow.

6: Use a gate valve on the siphon line, not a ball valve. and place the gate valve as close to the sump as possible.

7: On both the siphon line and the return lines, keep the elbows, fittings and horizontal runs to a minimum. On the siphon line it will cause it to have problems restarting the siphon by trapping air in the system, and on the return line it will severely kill your pump output. My suggestion is to use flex PVC as much as possible where you need some turns instead of using elbows or 45s. The more gradual the better.

8: Though Ive done it for years without issue, no one recommends anymore using PTFE tape (Teflon tape) on PVC pipe threads, your supposed to use pvc specific paste to seal the joints.

grab a beer, sit down and watch these, they explain things pretty well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1tAnhIGpgA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9OCuUFg_lk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVFZtmXX6ck
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aaDDKNA4cn0

Thanks! Finally a detailed reply with plenty of advice! Luckily I've already watched 3 out of the 4 of those videos at the end that you linked I'll watch the other here in a bit. Ok so flex pvc instead of elbows got it.
After some research and some advice on another thread, I've decided to go with bean animal's design. Almost exactly what he outlined with 1" bulkheads adapted to 1.5" standpipes etc I was going to skip the valves on the emergency and secondary lines since they didnt seem necessary and just get a true union ball valve for the full syphon. What return pump would you recommend? Sounds like doing 1.5" return until where it meets the tank would be smart so I'll do that as well. Will I have problems getting the 3 holes into the 12" area that my overflow will provide? How would I attach the return pump to the 1.5" plumbing for the return line? Thanks again for all advice! Looking forward to this project now :bounce3:

 

[Bent]

Thanks! Finally a detailed reply with plenty of advice! Luckily I've already watched 3 out of the 4 of those videos at the end that you linked I'll watch the other here in a bit. Ok so flex pvc instead of elbows got it. as much as possible. I changed all my rigid plumbing recently to flex PVC and I wish I would have done it sooner. I also had hard plumbed my return with 3/4 rigid with a bunch of elbows, I changed it to 1" flex PVC and the output is almost double now. So make all the transitions as smooth as possible. Straight runs and slants would be ok to to use rigid to save some money. So ideally you would only need some couplers, primer, glue, straight PVC and flex PVC. It will be not only 100x easier to plumb, but it will be quieter and much more efficient. To me the only draw back of flex PVC is the cost.

After some research and some advice on another thread, I've decided to go with bean animal's design. Almost exactly what he outlined with 1" bulkheads adapted to 1.5" standpipes etc i wouldn't worry about upsizing the drain. The cost of 1.5" vs 1" is pretty significant and I think bean just did it initially because that's what he had laying around. Doing the bean method with 1" should be plenty.

I was going to skip the valves on the emergency and secondary lines since they didnt seem necessary and just get a true union ball valve for the full syphon. that seems like a good plan except for the ball valve. I used a ball for a while on a bean and it's a pain in the arse to get it dialed in. You just don't have the finesse that a gate valve has. I tend to look at ball valves as only on/off valves, and gates for adjustment. Also again, to make sure you maintain an efficient self priming siphon, put the gate valve as close to the sump as possible. Gates that are closer to the overflow tend to cause siphon restart problems. Mine did. I would also eliminate the clean out tees. IMO it's just extra hassle. Drill the top of the open channel elbow inside the overflow box, use a push connect threaded fitting, some rigid tubing and clip it right below the emergency drain. This eliminates the ugly tubing loop over the back of the tank, hides the tubing inside the overflow bow, and simplifies the plumbing. Also, don't glue the fittings inside the box.

What return pump would you recommend? that depends on the size of the display, which is apparently 75g, the size of the skimmer, whether or not you need an internal or external unit (or what will fit inside your sump or stand), and if you are going to be running ancillary equipment. I always say to take the size pump you think you need and double it. It's pretty easy to dial a pump back with a valve, but getting more output means replacing it. I'd rather buy equipment once. So 75g minus about 5 gallons for rock and sand displacement is about 70g. The rule of thumb for tank turnover (if you have an appropriate sized skimmer) is about 3-5x the tank volume, so 70x5=350gph. Again I want to double it in case you ever want to run ancillary equipment. 350x2=700gph. So I'd look for a pump over 700gph. The type is going to depend on external vs internal vs size constraints. Internal pumps I am using a fluval SP series as a secondary and it's great.
Fluval Sea SP2 Sump Pump for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XSGHQ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_UZQhxbRWS2AXY
The sp2 will meet your needs just fine. The 4 is just a little bit more so depending on size you might consider getting it. You can always dial it back with a gate valve. Also make sure you use unions on your pump so you can remove it if it ever needs service.

Sounds like doing 1.5" return until where it meets the tank would be smart so I'll do that as well. 1.5 was just an example. Just upsize according to the pump outlet you get. So if the pump outlet was 3/4" then you would up size the plumbing to 1" to minimize head loss.

Will I have problems getting the 3 holes into the 12" area that my overflow will provide? possibly, I had issues with a 12" external overflow, but let's cross that bridge when we get there

How would I attach the return pump to the 1.5" plumbing for the return line?typically the return pumps are threaded. So you will need a slip/thread adapter that will upsize the outlet to the size you need. Then you can use some rigid tubing cut short and glue on your Union valve, then glue your plumbing up from there, reducing at the end for your 3/4 bulkhead.

Thanks again for all advice! Looking forward to this project now :bounce3:

No problem! My responses in red. Hope it helps you.

Edit:
Oh one more thing I forgot. You may want to consider teeing off and doing more than a single outlet. Add your total outlets up and make sure it is equal to, or more than your outlet plumbing size. So, for instance, if your return line is 1.5" it will be less headloss to push through two 3/4" outlets rather than 1.

.75x2=1.5. See?

If your single outlet is significantly smaller than your return pump plumbing size, you've kind of wasted your time plumbing all that upsized tubing. While you can't make the bulkhead opening bigger than 3/4, increasing the number of 3/4 bulkheads is the next best thing.

 

[SALTYwaterDOG]

Imo bent is spot on. I may have missed it but what size tank are you drilling?
75 got it

 

[Bent]

Someone else with more know how may refute what I say, but that's just my experience.

 

[PAXpress]

A few more follow up questions bent, couldn't get the quote function to do what I wanted so I'm just going to copy/paste the parts I have questions about and ask the question after it.

I would also eliminate the clean out tees. IMO it's just extra hassle. Drill the top of the open channel elbow inside the overflow box, use a push connect threaded fitting, some rigid tubing and clip it right below the emergency drain. This eliminates the ugly tubing loop over the back of the tank, hides the tubing inside the overflow bow, and simplifies the plumbing. Also, don't glue the fittings inside the box.
Not sure what you mean by clean out tees? Also do you have a picture or a link to a push connect threaded fitting? And by rigid tubing you mean the kind of tubing they sell at fish stores somewhat like airline but won't bend? I understand the idea to just have everything inside the overflow and no extra stuff sticking over the top. Is the open channel the one that picks up the slack for the full siphon or is it the emergency standpipe? Also when you say don't glue the fittings inside the box you just mean that way I can disassemble more easily and a perfect seal on those isnt important because its inside the tank correct?

that depends on the size of the display, which is apparently 75g, the size of the skimmer, whether or not you need an internal or external unit (or what will fit inside your sump or stand), and if you are going to be running ancillary equipment. I always say to take the size pump you think you need and double it. It's pretty easy to dial a pump back with a valve, but getting more output means replacing it. I'd rather buy equipment once. So 75g minus about 5 gallons for rock and sand displacement is about 70g. The rule of thumb for tank turnover (if you have an appropriate sized skimmer) is about 3-5x the tank volume, so 70x5=350gph. Again I want to double it in case you ever want to run ancillary equipment. 350x2=700gph. So I'd look for a pump over 700gph. The type is going to depend on external vs internal vs size constraints. Internal pumps I am using a fluval SP series as a secondary and it's great.
Fluval Sea SP2 Sump Pump for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XSGHQ6..._UZQhxbRWS2AXY
The sp2 will meet your needs just fine. The 4 is just a little bit more so depending on size you might consider getting it. You can always dial it back with a gate valve. Also make sure you use unions on your pump so you can remove it if it ever needs service. For now I have a hang on back skimmer and will purchase an in sump skimmer soon when budget allows (just bought a house and the sump etc plus I have a 3 month old that is not cheap! soon though!) The sump I purchased is the trigger systems crystal 30 http://www.aquacave.com/trigger-sys...e=1&fep=5253&gclid=CJLvmrjWrMwCFQsPaQod8gYHAQ I was trying to find something that would be a bit more budget friendly and in comparison to the ruby and emerald it had very similar features (no probe holders and slightly smaller and no extra section for fuge) I was hoping to do an internal pump in the sump hopefully that wont be difficult with what I bought. Initially I don't think I'll be running a fuge, probably just berlin style with some algae in there. I don't think initially too much flow will be a problem with this setup (assuming my bean plumbing can handle the overflow amount). I just pulled up the pumps on brs and I definitely wasn't expecting them to be that pricey. Guess I'll just have to bite the bullet, would rather get a quality pump and not have to replace it anytime soon... Think the one you linked looks like a good pump so I'll put that one on the list.

typically the return pumps are threaded. So you will need a slip/thread adapter that will upsize the outlet to the size you need. Then you can use some rigid tubing cut short and glue on your Union valve, then glue your plumbing up from there, reducing at the end for your 3/4 bulkhead.Will I be able to find that kind of adapter at lowes or would that be an online order type thing? Also are unions something I'll have to get online as well?

Thanks again sorry for all the questions.
Edit: Is this what you meant by the push connect threaded fitting? http://g02.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1Sk2I...Thread-to-1-4-Tube-Quick-Connect-Push-Fit.jpg

 

[PAXpress]

Ok so still working on a complete parts list so I can budget it out easily. (payday is this friday hoping to at least get some of the parts ordered)
I will need 2 of these? http://glass-holes.com/3-4-inch-Loc-Line-Flexible-Pipe-5-3-4-Long-6-segments-LL75pipe55.htm
two of these? http://glass-holes.com/3-4-inch-Loc-Line-3-inch-Flare-Nozzle-LL75flare.htm
and i have 2 of these already but it seems like I will need 2 more:http://glass-holes.com/1-Bulkhead-Thread-x-Slip-bh100txs.htm
also found this which is about 1/3 of the price of others I've found, will it work? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKSAVG...TF8&colid=33SST5CFLASJ1&coliid=I31UP5LXBP6VQQ also will I need a 2nd one for the return side as well?
And for now I'm leaning towards the sp2.
Also will need the all the parts that I found on bean animals parts list post, just 1" parts instead of the 1.5" plumbings

 

[PAXpress]

So excited to get started, buying parts this weekend... anyone able to answer my last few questions? Sorry for how many there are...

 

[Bent]

sorry I just noticed the updated thread:

Not sure what you mean by clean out tees?

The clean out Tees are the tee fittings on the back of the bulkhead that point upwards with the threaded cap that are on Beans original drawing. The purpose of those tees is to allow you to unscrew the cap and clean the drain out. They are nice to have but sometimes Ive had issues with the trapped air keeping the siphon from starting. Ive never really needed to use them, so I just stopped using them and just used elbows straight to the drain.

Also do you have a picture or a link to a push connect threaded fitting?

http://www.amazon.com/Watts-PL-3007...=1461772611&sr=8-10&keywords=push+connect+pvc

And by rigid tubing you mean the kind of tubing they sell at fish stores somewhat like airline but won't bend?

:Thumbsup: that's the stuff right thar.

I understand the idea to just have everything inside the overflow and no extra stuff sticking over the top. Is the open channel the one that picks up the slack for the full siphon or is it the emergency standpipe?

Technically both will. If the flow gets so much that it overcomes the emergency standpipe, it will convert to full siphon as well. If the water comes up over top of the airline on the open channel, then it will convert to full siphon as well.

Also when you say don't glue the fittings inside the box you just mean that way I can disassemble more easily and a perfect seal on those isnt important because its inside the tank correct?

Exactly.

For now I have a hang on back skimmer and will purchase an in sump skimmer soon when budget allows (just bought a house and the sump etc plus I have a 3 month old that is not cheap! soon though!) The sump I purchased is the trigger systems crystal 30 http://www.aquacave.com/trigger-syst...FQsPaQod8gYHAQ I was trying to find something that would be a bit more budget friendly and in comparison to the ruby and emerald it had very similar features (no probe holders and slightly smaller and no extra section for fuge) I was hoping to do an internal pump in the sump hopefully that wont be difficult with what I bought. Initially I don't think I'll be running a fuge, probably just berlin style with some algae in there. I don't think initially too much flow will be a problem with this setup (assuming my bean plumbing can handle the overflow amount). I just pulled up the pumps on brs and I definitely wasn't expecting them to be that pricey. Guess I'll just have to bite the bullet, would rather get a quality pump and not have to replace it anytime soon... Think the one you linked looks like a good pump so I'll put that one on the list.

The SP series pumps will serve you well. Just put a gate valve on the outlet somewhere so you can dial back the flow if you need to. It wont hurt the pump at all to throttle it back. So I suggest buying a tad bigger than you need. the SP2 would probably be fine, but I always try to upsize and dial it back if I have to. This way you can feed ancillary equipment with it at some point. I would also do a manifold off of it the way they showed in the BRS TV episode and cap them, that way if you wanted to eventually run some ancillary equipment, you can just tie onto it right there and you wont have to buy a whole new pump or cut out your plumbing.

Will I be able to find that kind of adapter at lowes or would that be an online order type thing?

My lowes here has them.

Also are unions something I'll have to get online as well?

My local lowes sells unions and union ball valves. Gate valves ive had to buy off the net. Check amazon. That's where I get mine.

Ok so still working on a complete parts list so I can budget it out easily. (payday is this friday hoping to at least get some of the parts ordered)
I will need 2 of these? http://glass-holes.com/3-4-inch-Loc-...LL75pipe55.htm
two of these? http://glass-holes.com/3-4-inch-Loc-...-LL75flare.htm
and i have 2 of these already but it seems like I will need 2 more:http://glass-holes.com/1-Bulkhead-Th...p-bh100txs.htm
also found this which is about 1/3 of the price of others I've found, will it work? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKSAVG/...I31UP5LXBP6VQQ also will I need a 2nd one for the return side as well?
And for now I'm leaning towards the sp2.
Also will need the all the parts that I found on bean animals parts list post, just 1" parts instead of the 1.5" plumbings

I have a hard time checking links here at work, but those all seem ok to me. You are on the right track sir. Start a build thread and PM me the link and ill sub to it and help you out as much as I can.


edit:
wait wait, no. you will need the schedule 80 bulkheads for your 3/4" returns, not the sch40. The 3/4" sch80 bulkheads at glass-holes will fit the hole you drill for a 1" bulkhead. This way you just have to buy the drill bit for the 1" holes.

If you drill the return holes with the hole saw for the 1" bulkheads and try to put 3/4" sch40 bulkheads in them, they wont fit. The sch80 bulkheads will fit those holes.

So all in all youll need to get this done (If drilling 5 holes. 3 drain and 2 return):

3-1" sch40 bulkheads for the drains. Youll need 6 gaskets as well. 3 gaskets will go inside the overflow box behind the bulkhead flanges. 3 will be sandwiched between the overflow box and the inside glass.
5-1" 3 elbows to go from the outside of the bulkheads down to the sump. 2 to go up to the returns.
7-1" unions (If you use two non union gate valves. But it might be cheaper to find 2 true union gate valves so you wont have to buy extra unions.) The point is that youll need a union on each line closest to the tank so you can disconnect everything from the tank if you ever have to.
8-You also might want to put unions on the sump side as well so you can remove the sump.

 

[PAXpress]

All this sch 80 sch 40 stuff has me a bit confused... I can't seem to find on the bulkhead page whether its sch 40 or 80? Also the overflow kit I bought came with 2 bulkheads but I have no idea if they are sch 40 or 80. I looked up the difference between 40 and 80 so I understand the difference, however I am having trouble differentiating on the webpages where I'm looking to buy these things.
Also you were saying in-between the overflow box and the glass of the tank that I'll need another gasket. The overflow box I've purchased isn't exactly a box. Its only the front sides and bottom no back side, so I don't think I'll need anything other than the one gasket that came with the bulkheads. The kit I bought that has the drill bit says the bit is 1.75" in size with 1" bulkheads. I did test and the bulkheads fit into the drill bit so they should fit through the hole it drills. I found an amazon listing for 1" bulkheads that it says in the listing will fit into a 1.75" hole. Are these bulkheads sch 40 or 80? Also I should be getting slip x slip bulkheads correct? Ok so I'm going to order the bulkheads because I'm pretty sure I've got the correct ones nailed down. Can't seem to find gate valves with unions... I'm assuming I'll need schedule 80 gate valves?
Sorry I've been puzzling over this for an hour now and maybe you can help.
Heres the plan, buying 3 more 1" bulkheads (the product description says they will fit a 1.75" hole) two gate valves schedule 80 without unions (I'll pick up a few unions at lowes and use as many as possible) 5 elbows 1" size for drains and returns, and two 3/4" loc line return nozzles along with all the tubing needed to reach the bulkheads etc for the standpipes and to connect to the sump... Am I doing something crazy here? Sorry I feel like such a dope...this will all make so much more sense once I have the parts in my hands but with pictures and names online I'm really fretting.

 

[PAXpress]

Ok I did it. Ordered two gate valves and 4 bulkheads (have the two already and they came in two packs so I'll have a spare one in case I do something dumb.) and took your advice and bought the sp4 instead of the 2. Heck thats why I am buying the gate valve haha to tone it back. Think this weekend I'll start drilling... Thanks bent for all the advice. I'll start a build thread once I get going.
Another question, the sump I bought only has one filter sock attachment... I assume this won't be a huge problem considering only the one standpipe will get the majority of the flow.. the secondary could just aim towards the sock and the emergency line can just dump anywhere into the sump because in theory its only going to be in use if a problem occurs to prevent overflow...

 

[PAXpress]

Just thought of another question...won't i need more elbows for inside of the overflow?

 

[Bent]

All this sch 80 sch 40 stuff has me a bit confused... I can't seem to find on the bulkhead page whether its sch 40 or 80?

Sch80 is designed for higher pressures. While they have the same internal diameter of a sch40, the OD is much thicker to accommodate the higher pressures they are rated for. You wont need the higher pressure, but using a 3/4 sch80 bulkhead will keep you from having to buy two hole saws. I.E you will be able to drill five 1.75" holes in the glass instead of three 1.75" holes and two 1.5" holes for the returns. You'd simply use three 1" sch40 bulkheads for the drains and two 3/4" sch80 bulkheads for the returns.

Also the overflow kit I bought came with 2 bulkheads but I have no idea if they are sch 40 or 80. I looked up the difference between 40 and 80 so I understand the difference, however I am having trouble differentiating on the webpages where I'm looking to buy these things.

I wonder why it only came with two. Got a link to the exact product I can look at? You wont be able to run a bean with two.

Also you were saying in-between the overflow box and the glass of the tank that I'll need another gasket. The overflow box I've purchased isn't exactly a box. Its only the front sides and bottom no back side, so I don't think I'll need anything other than the one gasket that came with the bulkheads.

OH ok, so its a box your going to have to silicone in place. Im with you now.

The kit I bought that has the drill bit says the bit is 1.75" in size with 1" bulkheads. I did test and the bulkheads fit into the drill bit so they should fit through the hole it drills.

yep, 1.75" is the appropriate size for a 1" sch40 bulkhead.

I found an amazon listing for 1" bulkheads that it says in the listing will fit into a 1.75" hole. Are these bulkheads sch 40 or 80?

schedule 40

Also I should be getting slip x slip bulkheads correct?

it depends on what you want to do. I would use slip for the inside of the box and thread for the outside. This way if you have to take everything apart for some reason you wont have to trash the bulkhead. I slip fit everything else.

Ok so I'm going to order the bulkheads because I'm pretty sure I've got the correct ones nailed down. Can't seem to find gate valves with unions... I'm assuming I'll need schedule 80 gate valves?

Union gate valves are hard to come by on amazon. Bulk reef supply has some union gate valves, they are pricey though so fore warning. It might be easier for you to just get slip fit gate valves like the king valve you linked to earlier, and just glue your own unions to either side of it. That's typically what I do. Comes out a couple bucks cheaper. And no you don't need schedule 80 gate valves, Sch40 will work fine. We only used 80 bulkheads for the returns simply so you wouldn't have to buy two different sized hole saws since the 3/4" sch40 bulkheads have to have a 1.5" hole and the 1" sch40 bulkheads use a 1.75" hole.

Sorry I've been puzzling over this for an hour now and maybe you can help.
Heres the plan, buying 3 more 1" bulkheads (the product description says they will fit a 1.75" hole)

those are sch40

two gate valves schedule 80 without unions (I'll pick up a few unions at lowes and use as many as possible)

that's usually what I do and you can return the excess. beats making multiple trips.

5 elbows 1" size for drains and returns, and two 3/4" loc line return nozzles along with all the tubing needed to reach the bulkheads etc for the standpipes and to connect to the sump... Am I doing something crazy here? Sorry I feel like such a dope...this will all make so much more sense once I have the parts in my hands but with pictures and names online I'm really fretting.

That sounds like a plan, it will all make sense once you start connecting them. like I said start a build thread and take pics so we can help you better.

Ok I did it. Ordered two gate valves and 4 bulkheads (have the two already and they came in two packs so I'll have a spare one in case I do something dumb.) and took your advice and bought the sp4 instead of the 2. Heck thats why I am buying the gate valve haha to tone it back.

I think that was very wise.

Another question, the sump I bought only has one filter sock attachment... I assume this won't be a huge problem considering only the one standpipe will get the majority of the flow.. the secondary could just aim towards the sock and the emergency line can just dump anywhere into the sump because in theory its only going to be in use if a problem occurs to prevent overflow...

Yep, that's how mine operates.

Just thought of another question...won't i need more elbows for inside of the overflow?

yeah you likely will, so pick a few up and we will mock it up when you get it all done. Depending on the amount of room you have in there we may have to get creative. Id pick up what you think youll have to have for inside the box ideally, and if we have to do some...editing..well cross that bridge when we get there.

 

[PAXpress]

Perfect! The sch 80 gate valve is what I bought but shouldn't be a problem because ID is the same. Will get some pics up and running and also need to drill the tank. I tried determining if the tank was tempered on the back pane but couldn't see anything that would indicate that it was. I don't remember the brand of tank but I do remember it having a sticker on the bottom pane saying tempered don't drill. Tried the sunglasses laptop trick but couldn't tell... Wish I could remember the brand....

 

[PAXpress]

as requested heres the link to my build thread with progression. not much there yet but soon!
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2577533