Drilling the tank. Help!

Archimendes

New member
Hello! Greetings from sunny and reef-less Greece!

I have a 174 gallon tank and I'd like to drill it.
Please enlighten me on the diameter of the hole, on the parts required (valves? ) and on the powerhead capacity required to return the water in the tank.

I obviously should make two drills (inflow and outflow) right? Should these be as far away as possible from each other?
How do I hide them ( won't placing rock obstruct the flow?)?

Protection from flood? How?

Many thanks! Geia sas!
 
You need to decide what size and how many bulkheads you will need BEFORE you drill. There are several different options for drain - Do a quick search on here for "BeanAnimal" "Herbie" and "Durso"

I have always used the Durso style. It cannot fail (or at least none of mine have since the mid 80's) The downside to them is relatively low flow compared to a full siphon system, and excessive noise if you try to push their capacity. I don't consider lower flow to be an issue because most folks advocate slow flow through the sump and/or refugium anyway. If you are not pushing the limits of flow, noise is not really an issue either. A single 1" Durso can handle a max flow rate of ~ 350gph, but will be much happier at 250 - 300gph. My 120 DT is plumbed using the kit from www.glass-holes.com rated for 1500 GPH. I use an eheim 1262 as both the return pump and to power my carbon and GFO reactors. I use Koralia 1150gph powerheads (4 set on 2 different timers) to provide flow in the tank. My 150DT is plumber with the GH 3000gph kit and I use a DART the same way.

JMO

HTH
 
be careful when you drill the hole I had a little piece of glass break off around the hole when I was going through the last one I drilled. and I had a piece of wood clamped to prevent that from happening.
 
You need to read a LOT more before drilling your tank. You need to completely understand what you want to accomplish before drilling. Most drill 2 or 3 holes just for the drains.

You don't want to mess up that pretty new tank!:bounce1:
 
Hello, thanks for the helpful advice!
I am considering hiring a glass professional to do the actual drilling - in order to avoid any mishaps.
I dive in the recommendations by billdogg before proceeding!

Much appreciated!
Geia sas!
 
You need to decide what size and how many bulkheads you will need BEFORE you drill. There are several different options for drain - Do a quick search on here for "BeanAnimal" "Herbie" and "Durso"

I have always used the Durso style. It cannot fail (or at least none of mine have since the mid 80's) The downside to them is relatively low flow compared to a full siphon system, and excessive noise if you try to push their capacity. I don't consider lower flow to be an issue because most folks advocate slow flow through the sump and/or refugium anyway. If you are not pushing the limits of flow, noise is not really an issue either. A single 1" Durso can handle a max flow rate of ~ 350gph, but will be much happier at 250 - 300gph. My 120 DT is plumbed using the kit from www.glass-holes.com rated for 1500 GPH. I use an eheim 1262 as both the return pump and to power my carbon and GFO reactors. I use Koralia 1150gph powerheads (4 set on 2 different timers) to provide flow in the tank. My 150DT is plumber with the GH 3000gph kit and I use a DART the same way.

JMO

HTH
When you say you use durso on your tanks, are you saying that the glass-holes kits are considered durso? Just curious because I myself am trying to decide if I want to buy a glass-holes kit or buy an internal box from BRS and set up a durso.
 
They are essentially the same. The glass holes kit does not use a standpipe but otherwise the flow characteristics are the same.
 
I would do two that drain water and one that is your return. With two drains you always have a backup if one gets clogged with something. If your drilling it just have patience, a good drill and good bits.
 
The drilling itself is really very easy. There are plenty of youtube videos, glass holes also has a great how to video on its website. As long as the tank is not tempered, anybody with a cordless drill can do it. Put the clutch setting on its lowest setting, make a dam with plumbers putty so the bit stays wet, and go just exactly as fast as the weight of the drill will let you go.
 
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