Dsb ?
- Thread starter 6stang9
- Start date
lvreefer
New member
After doing some research (curiosity got the better of me) it looks like several people have tried this to no avail. Nitrate reduction seems to work, but the inhabitants are noticeably upset. After jumping the gun on my initial answer it would make sense that the aquarium would have to have living plants to work. Java’s and nana’s are good varieties for African cichlid habitats. However, these types of plants do not “root†like your typical plant, so the benefits associated with rooted plants in substrate are null.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
You might a well set-up a remote refugium for nitrate reducing plants, as they are more efficient than bacteria.
I've used planter boxes that hang off of the back of the tank for this purpose. The water exits the canister filter and travels through the planter media. The semi aquatic plants remove nitrate and the substrate fosters nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. The canister is just a mechanical & chemical (carbon) pre-filter. Only wet the bottom 1/3 of the root zone.
Spathiphyllum (peace lilly), Aglaonema (silver queen), Philodendron, Anthurium, Dracaena (dragon plant), Cypress (papyrus) and Ivy are fast growers that consume a lot of nitrogen and phosphorus.
I've used planter boxes that hang off of the back of the tank for this purpose. The water exits the canister filter and travels through the planter media. The semi aquatic plants remove nitrate and the substrate fosters nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria. The canister is just a mechanical & chemical (carbon) pre-filter. Only wet the bottom 1/3 of the root zone.
Spathiphyllum (peace lilly), Aglaonema (silver queen), Philodendron, Anthurium, Dracaena (dragon plant), Cypress (papyrus) and Ivy are fast growers that consume a lot of nitrogen and phosphorus.
dragonforce
New member
DSB with the proper critters to maintain it. I don't even touch mine but I do have fighting conches nasarrius snails and a cuke to turn it all over.
The real goal here is to find out what works for your system. I think some systems work well with a DSB and some work better BB. Same goes with systems with fuges and skimmers. Some work better with and some work better without. Just find out what works for you and do plenty of research and find what other people think.
The real goal here is to find out what works for your system. I think some systems work well with a DSB and some work better BB. Same goes with systems with fuges and skimmers. Some work better with and some work better without. Just find out what works for you and do plenty of research and find what other people think.
el chupacabra
New member
Nitrates aren't usually an issue with fresh water tanks (no inverts) thus defeating the purpose for a dsb.
Cichlids might become 'upset' about a dsb since they would dig it up releasing bacteria and crud into the water.- Just a theory
On a side note I know people that have made mud bottom aquariums (not with cichlids though) with tons of seaweed and had a completely seft feeding/cleaning FW system.
Cichlids might become 'upset' about a dsb since they would dig it up releasing bacteria and crud into the water.- Just a theory
On a side note I know people that have made mud bottom aquariums (not with cichlids though) with tons of seaweed and had a completely seft feeding/cleaning FW system.
mr.wilson
.Registered Member
Nitrate is a growth inhibitor for cichlids. Really high nitrates will cause growth defects, most commonly an under-bite.
Discus and Oscar breeders that don't do enough water changes and overcrowd their fish, will have stunted fish with a disproportionately large eye. For some reason the eye continues to grow, while other growth ceases.
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