Durso Pipe round 2

R

Raibaru

New member
Well I took a lot of the suggestions people came up with in the other thread and gave them a shot with no real improvement. I decided to go to home depot and buy the parts to make my own durso stand pipe so I could drill holes in it at well. Still no luck.

When I had flex PVC in it with a 90elbow on the end it would run fairly well and maybe once every couple mins I'd hear bubbling noises coming from the sump. Unfortunately, the flex PVC tubing caused issues with my skimmer so I've had to go back to rigid PVC tubing.

With rigid I can't get it to work at all. Fiddled with the air hole, put an elbow on the drain line, adjusted the depth of the drain line. Still had water fluctuating in the overflow and lots of large bubbles.

I read a FAQ online saying that straight vertical tubing is bad, but how am I supposed to plumb it at an angle? There simply isn't room for a 45angle as it won't go back in the sump.

I can't turn the sump around either and plumb it diagonally either. So not really sure how you're supposed to do this.

If some of you guys have any suggestions at all, especially the kind of suggestions that come in colorful pictures and step by step directions I promise to build an idol in your image on my front lawn.

I've been at this for days now and I'm at wits end.
 
I did mine from scratch as well. I ran a 2" "i think if not 1.5"" pvc pipe straight up to a T with a 90 pointing right back down towards the ground. On top of the T I put a plug and drilled a small hole and whenever I got gurgling I used the next step up from that hole. If you mess up, fill the hole with silicone and try again. Also, I have a cover that fits over my overflow area, the top of my plug nearly hits the bottom of the cover and the T with the 90 is directly below it. Meaning The T is as high as it can be. I have about an inch to maybe half an inch drop from main display water level to level in the overflow. It took a few days to perfect it but now my tank is so quiet I can never hear it. And it's a 150 G! What I would do is research pictures more then info, that way you see what is working for others.


Also try this, take a small hose line "like the ones for air stones" and run it from air-inside the 90-up the 90-through the T-and back down a few inches in the pvc tube going to your sump. Didn't do anything for me but has worked for others.
 
What does your plumbing look like under the sump? Is it just a straight pipe down into the sump and only a few inches under the water's surface? Or do you have it at an angle?
 
To quiet down my return on my 55, I had to put a ball valve on the return pumps line. My return was pulling to much water out causing a flushing and alot of bubbles from my drain. This took care of the issue.
 
I designed pretty much the same set up as Scoobaman17 except I did not have room for the elbow pointing back down in my overflow box. I have just a T at the top with another short piece of 1.5" coming off the collecting the water horizontally. Exact set up as his just without the T. Mine seems to work great too. You should google "Durso Standpipe" and check out the pictures if you haven't already.
 
Right, I found the durso standpipes online and built my own.

I managed to level it out somewhat by putting a gate valve on the end and restricting the flow of water going from my overflow into the sump.

Does this mean that my return pump isn't powerful enough for the tank and I should get a larger one?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13605218#post13605218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Raibaru
Does this mean that my return pump isn't powerful enough for the tank and I should get a larger one?
Click to expand...
I believe it means that your return pump is slightly too strong for the overflow setup that you have. Try a ball valve on your return hose and adjust for 5x gph flow of your display tank. (if your tank is 100 gallons, try setting your return flow to approximately 500gph)... I hope this helps.
 
On a 36 gallon tank you are fine with that pump. Don't change the pump to adjust to the standpipe. Adjust the standpipe so it works with the pump.
 
Sorry, this was for my new 65g tank with a 20g long sump.

Guess that bit of info would have been nice to put in the original post :/
 
After the water goes down my pvc pipe, it 90's left about a foot and then 90's back down into my sump, about an inch below the surface of my water lever in my skimmer area. As almost everyone above I also put a ball valve, helps regulate flow, also makes it a lot easier on me when I do water changes, I turn the valve to stop flow to the sump, gives me more play in the display when I am doing a water change.
 
The first thing to understand is that the noise your hearing is air trying to escape the drain lines. Your objective is to allow the air to quietly escape. The durso stand pipe should have a hole in the top of it to allow air to escape. The key is that if the hole is too big it makes noise and if the hole is too small it's going to make noise. Ideally you could use an adjustable valve there to be able to adjust airflow for the durso.
158898dursos2.gif


Another issue you brought up was the drain line being a straight shot from the tank to the sump. I don't think it's a big deal at all as long as the sump is directly under the tank. If on the other hand it has a 15' drop into a basement then that will be a different story.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
DRILL aquarium only 1 DownPipe?
Replies
0
Views
275
Andrés Garza
A
A
DRILL aquarium only 1 DownPipe?
Replies
1
Views
322
Timfish
Timfish
A
OVERFLOW BOX HOLE?
Replies
9
Views
1K
allenford6
A
A
  • Locked
Single drain Overflow System for a 55 gallón tank ?
Replies
1
Views
447
BrianD
BrianD
T
How to calculate head pressure through Python hose?
Replies
5
Views
128
wvned
wvned
Back
Top