Dwarf Seahorses for a beginner

Best to look at the tankmate guide on the org.

I think Allmost has then in the main tank & not the reidi's tank. High temps works for very few people. More people have issuses at higher temps. But it does work for a few people.


When I look at the .org I see that appropriate tankmates are the colt coral and kenya tree and carnation coral which is what I have been looking for and planned to put in my tank. Along with the clove polyps.

http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/tankmates/polyp.shtml
http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/tankmates/softcoral.shtml

The threat level is zero for mostly all of the species. But then again I don't know if it is dwarf specific. When I look at the dwarf guide there is not a section for tank mates; only for cuc.
 
Best to look at the tankmate guide on the org.

I think Allmost has then in the main tank & not the reidi's tank. High temps works for very few people. More people have issuses at higher temps. But it does work for a few people.

Issue is uneaten food. bacteria will grow on it, and if the seahorse takes it the bacteria might give it infections or ... . I remove all uneaten food.

I recently found hydroids in the seahorse tank though. not sure if those are related to temp as well, but I'm gonna starve them to death, just stopped feeding my corals.
 
When I look at the .org I see that appropriate tankmates are the colt coral and kenya tree and carnation coral which is what I have been looking for and planned to put in my tank. Along with the clove polyps.

http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/tankmates/polyp.shtml
http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/tankmates/softcoral.shtml

The threat level is zero for mostly all of the species. But then again I don't know if it is dwarf specific. When I look at the dwarf guide there is not a section for tank mates; only for cuc.

They are safe with the larger seahorses. Not so much so with the dwarfs.
 
Issue is uneaten food. bacteria will grow on it, and if the seahorse takes it the bacteria might give it infections or ... . I remove all uneaten food.

I recently found hydroids in the seahorse tank though. not sure if those are related to temp as well, but I'm gonna starve them to death, just stopped feeding my corals.

Then be careful when you transfer the frys. Once they enter they fry tank, they will reproduce like crazy.
 
HMMM !!! 9G ? how are you going to possibly filter that ? you need a Fuge or a sump.

not possible in my opinion. a sponge filter can not keep up.

From what I got from the .org

http://www.seahorse.org/library/articles/dwarfguide/dwarfguide.shtml

I did not know that I need a sump. Of course people have different experiences but from what I have heard from other forums and seen from guides dwarf seahorses could be contained even without a sump as long as their is good filtration. I am now thinking of just adding one coral and fill the rest up with macroalgae though (I was originally going to add one colt coral and clove polyps).
 
Maybe adding no coral would be a good option and just keep macroalgae with cuc and sexy shrimp.
But is the problem with the heat that the light gives off or does high light period effect the dwarfs?
I have found some lighting that does not generate that much heat like LED's and T5s HO but I don't really know the harms of too much light other than the heat factor and the growth of bacteria and such.

Also I would have a sponge filter attached to a power filter and a small internal. All would have a metered flow. I could get another small one for more filteration I guess.
 
T5 HO gives off no heat.

sump = a method of filtering.

what are you going to use to filter your tank ? a sponge filter is not enough. for seahorses u need low flow so live rock in the seahorse tank wont work as live rock needs high flow. also how are you going to prevent hydroids ?




sexy shrimp with seahorse ? I dont keep them with my adult large seahorses leave alone dwarves.
 
I would have a sponge filter attached to a power filter and also a small internal filter. Both would have metered flows.
Also According to .org sexy shrimp are safe with their size (1-1/2) and overall diet but then again I don't know if it was pertaining to dwarfs. Maybe a bumblebee shrimp or ghost shrimp would suffice. In any case I would keep a close eye out in case something goes wrong just like if I tried adding coral.

This is probably one of those times when I am going to have to try it and see what works, lol. Because another person has said that sexy shrimp would be a good idea.

But thanks for the info on the T5 HO, Allmost.
 
First of all, Allmost, I sure wish you would not advise against what is recommended by the majority of successful keepers.
I certainly don't have enough experience after 4 1/2 years to disregard the basic recommendations of seahorse keeping.
Just because you have a smaller tank doesn't make it right, especially for someone else. People don't realize just how much work and effort it would take to be successful in a smaller tank, and indeed, many STILL will have problems with a pair in a 29g.
I do have to correct you as a pair of reidis WILL NOT work in a 10g tank.
While you and a some others haven't had problems keeping seahorses at 80°, far more people do have problems and there is much better success keeping them at 68° to 74°F
By the way, a sump is not a filtering system and in fact some sumps don't contain any filtration means at all.
It is a remote reservoir that MAY contain many things, including such things as heaters, dosers, reactors, return pumps, settlement baffles and a lot of them have biological filtration, but none is essential.
For all my reef tanks the sump is only a means to add volume of water to the system and pump water to my skimmers.
My seahorse tanks do contain the live rock for the biological filtration.
Recommendations for dwarf tanks would be in the 5 to 10g range depending on stocking densities. Filtering systems work quite fine in these small tanks when properly serviced.
2 dwarfs in a 9g could be problematic when it comes to feeding but that is the only issue I see with it.
Live rock does NOT need high flow to function as a biological filter.
To say T5HO gives off NO heat is misleading. It would have been more correct to say that it produces more light with less heat than many other types of lighting for aquariums.
You DO need to gain more experience and do more research into what works best for a large number of hobbyists before you get into recommending things to others as I'm concerned some may try what you are espousing and end up losing their livestock.

loyalhero90, you do not need a sump! You can add one if you wish, and I plan to do so myself for my dwarf set up, but it definitely is not needed.
By the way, Tim is probably one of the most successful long term dwarf keepers you find posting here or on the org. Maybe the only one with more would be Dan Underwood of seahorse source.
I follow his posts in my quest for information for my coming dwarfs as it stimulates constructive discussion usually. (if he and the org members don't get off on one of their tangents that is)
 
loyalhero90, you do not need a sump! You can add one if you wish, and I plan to do so myself for my dwarf set up, but it definitely is not needed.
By the way, Tim is probably one of the most successful long term dwarf keepers you find posting here or on the org. Maybe the only one with more would be Dan Underwood of seahorse source.
I follow his posts in my quest for information for my coming dwarfs as it stimulates constructive discussion usually. (if he and the org members don't get off on one of their tangents that is)


Thanks for clearing my confusion rayjay. There were a couple of comments (i.e. sump and 10g for large seahorses) that I was confused about. I will try to catch up with Dan Underwood.
 
First of all, Allmost, I sure wish you would not advise against what is recommended by the majority of successful keepers.
I certainly don't have enough experience after 4 1/2 years to disregard the basic recommendations of seahorse keeping.
Just because you have a smaller tank doesn't make it right, especially for someone else. People don't realize just how much work and effort it would take to be successful in a smaller tank, and indeed, many STILL will have problems with a pair in a 29g.
I do have to correct you as a pair of reidis WILL NOT work in a 10g tank.
While you and a some others haven't had problems keeping seahorses at 80°, far more people do have problems and there is much better success keeping them at 68° to 74°F
By the way, a sump is not a filtering system and in fact some sumps don't contain any filtration means at all.
It is a remote reservoir that MAY contain many things, including such things as heaters, dosers, reactors, return pumps, settlement baffles and a lot of them have biological filtration, but none is essential.
For all my reef tanks the sump is only a means to add volume of water to the system and pump water to my skimmers.
My seahorse tanks do contain the live rock for the biological filtration.
Recommendations for dwarf tanks would be in the 5 to 10g range depending on stocking densities. Filtering systems work quite fine in these small tanks when properly serviced.
2 dwarfs in a 9g could be problematic when it comes to feeding but that is the only issue I see with it.
Live rock does NOT need high flow to function as a biological filter.
To say T5HO gives off NO heat is misleading. It would have been more correct to say that it produces more light with less heat than many other types of lighting for aquariums.
You DO need to gain more experience and do more research into what works best for a large number of hobbyists before you get into recommending things to others as I'm concerned some may try what you are espousing and end up losing their livestock.

loyalhero90, you do not need a sump! You can add one if you wish, and I plan to do so myself for my dwarf set up, but it definitely is not needed.
By the way, Tim is probably one of the most successful long term dwarf keepers you find posting here or on the org. Maybe the only one with more would be Dan Underwood of seahorse source.
I follow his posts in my quest for information for my coming dwarfs as it stimulates constructive discussion usually. (if he and the org members don't get off on one of their tangents that is)

Ray, you are 100% correct :)

the way I typed it out, was indeed misleading. and I apologize.
what I meant about a sump was that it would give you a wider choice of filtration as you mentioned as well. also, the more flow through the live rock, the better they function, live rock in seahorse tank can have problems for seahorses, as they are not used to living in rocky shores (copied that from the .com site) it can and will trap more detritus that way as well, so a sump would make it more efficient and easier to work with as well give you room to play around, also, a HOB skimmer will give out micro bubbles, and that is another thing to avoid with seahorses right ? hence the comment about sump and baffles, but I agree that I did not word it correctly. oh and live rock, I was told my the .org guys that use of Live rock is risky, as they could contain hydroids and many other hitchhikers which can and will hurt the dwarf seahorses.

same about the T5 comment, but you see light as a result of something burning, so as you said, T5 has the best heat to light output ratio. to be honest I tried some DIY LEDs as well, and they gave off ALOT more heat than T5 HO.

so far I have not advised against what the recommendations are, EXCEPT temp, and tank size, and here is my reason :

temp : the seahorse facilities keep their seahorses at higher temp as you know and mentioned before, as they will show their best colors and breed more often at higher temps (guess it sets the mode for them :P ) and also it would make their metabolism work better hence them eating more. The only downside I have heard of was the bacteria on the left over food, so if no left over food, I really can not imagine how it would be bad ! I agree that it is wrong to advice it, but I said that's what I do :) and I would love to hear another reason why the higher temps are not good :) after all my reidis are from Brazil :) its hot there. I was there 2 years ago lol

next, TANK size.
well I used to breed Freshwater stingrays (motoros) in a 120 G tank, which by motoro experts is not enough room for one !!! hmm, I had 2 in there and they were breeding ! (I never attempted to raise the fry, they were transferred to my friends house who has a indoor pool for stingrays and raised there, we still breed some of the rarest freshwater rays there. along with my ex rays :) ) so my point is that, if the fish can swim around, and the water is perfect, then why not ?

I agree posting those info is not right, but I want to encourage ppl to tell me another reason why I am wrong so I can learn form it.

thank you for correcting my post. and as you mentioned, info on seahorse keeping 5 years ago till now has changed alot, so no reason to think we have reached the end. there can still be new points and discoveries, and new ways made :)
 
I don't buy your arguments for temp and tank size.
While some can manage at the higher temperatures, it's not right IMO to let someone new coming into the hobby think that they can do it also. There is more to it than that.
You have been lucky so far but there are many more horses lost when others attempt it so why push it so more are lost?
Luck of the draw also is that some horses will tolerate bacteria more than others and if you have such and someone else doesn't, they results many not be the same.
As for size of tank, your parents could have shut you up all your life in a small bedroom and you would survive but that certainly won't make it right.
However, ALL seahorses won't survive in a volume below their needs.
On the org you probably read about using live rock as purchased or just quarantined before use.
Others like myself boil the rock first and then repopulate the beneficial bacteria using ammonium chloride or other ammonia source.
This practice is more prevalent with dwarfs because they are more sensitive to life forms that may transfer with the live rock.
While I agree that I prefer live rock in the sump it has nothing to do with the ability of that rock to perform.
I haven't seen any documented proof stating that the rock is less efficient in low flow compared to high flow.
As far as rock not being a natural component of seahorse life, that is correct. However if we are to recreate the natural environment for all the marine life we keep in our tanks we will certainly be in trouble.
My reef tanks certainly are not representative of live reefs in the ocean, but to be a successful marine hobbyist, one needs to make compromises but still find a way to make things survivable as well as livable for the creatures.
 
Tangents? I had to look it up. That means off topic. Ray is right about that. I tend to go off topic. :)

How much room do you have for them? You need space for the tank, hatcher, 1 or 2 2 liter bottles for enriching the brine shrimp.

If you are doing pods, 3 to 4 bottles per species.

I think it best that you start thinking of a H. zosterae tank with dry rock & algae for now. Once you get the hang of things, maybe another tank for the soft corals.

How much time do you have to spare? Depending on what you are culturing, prepare to spend roughly 45min to 90min per day on them.

Also you can try a trial run. Start with hatching out brine shrimp for two weeks. This way you can see if you have the time to do it or not.

Lastly, I have been lucky with them. But I also had tons of help along the way from people on the org. Dan U being the main one.

Take Care,

Tim
 
For the sake of natural filteration I would at least like to keep macroalgae, live rock and live sand (all cured with the rock boiled) since it somewhat mimics the dwarfs natural habitat (eventhough live rock is not totally natural in a macroalgae bed a lot of sites usually have the macroalgae grow on top of the live rock). But I have read that macroalgae need moderate-strong light with moderate flows so are these not the same requirements for coral? One sight even suggested metal halides for one macroalgae! What is the difference? I am just trying to understand (other than coral not being in the natural environment) why having at most one piece of colt coral, taro tree or gorgonia in the tank would have such a negative effect. With this new information it would seem that the coral could coexist with the macroalgae because their similar requirements.

Not trying to be indignant but just trying to understand some things a little better. And I am not talking about a whole reef system but just one coral with a bed of macroalgae.

P.S the attachment is a picture of how the aquarium would look. Rayjay and maybe Tim has already seen it from seahorse.org I believe.

Thanks
:reading:
 

Attachments

  • aquarium.jpg
    aquarium.jpg
    24.9 KB · Views: 2
How much room do you have for them? You need space for the tank, hatcher, 1 or 2 2 liter bottles for enriching the brine shrimp.

If you are doing pods, 3 to 4 bottles per species.

I think it best that you start thinking of a H. zosterae tank with dry rock & algae for now. Once you get the hang of things, maybe another tank for the soft corals.

How much time do you have to spare? Depending on what you are culturing, prepare to spend roughly 45min to 90min per day on them.

Also you can try a trial run. Start with hatching out brine shrimp for two weeks. This way you can see if you have the time to do it or not.

Okay, I have enough room for a 10 gallon aquarium and maybe a little higher. I would love to just keep the pods and just supplement with brine shrimp so I can provide 3-4 bottles. I can spend a lot of time with them per day due to my class schedule. But okay I can try the macroalgae and see about the coral later. You can gloss over my last comment but that was before I read this comment.

Hopefully I will also have luck on my side.

Thanks
 
Forgot to ask what state are you in. The reason for the question is because CA has a ban on some http://www.zanclus.it/immagini/invertebrati/caulerpa_prolifera.jpg & I think some other states.

I keep a small amount in the tank with them along with ulva & some red macro. Take a look at the picture. It has a nice effect in the tank. The downfall is that they blend in VERY VERY VERY well in it. I cannot stress that point enough.

I have 18watt of lighting on the tank. That is ***just*** enough to keep the algae going. But bright enough for the H.zosterae

Here are some reasons why the H. zosterae & the coral you want wouldn't work.

Lighting: In order to keep the soft coral, you need to up the light. That in turn is too bright for the H. zosterae.

Water Quality: Given the amount of food in the tank, water quality might/will be an issue.

Soft Coral: They work best with the larger seahorses. With the H. zosterae not good. As I stated before some people have try to do it. But you ***do not *** see or hear from them anymore.

As for the food, I hate to keep telling you, but brine will be the bulk of their diet. You linked to a company selling them. One container might be enough for a feeding. There no way around the brine unless you have the room to culture the copepods.
 
Oh okay. Sorry it is just hard for me to measure exactly how many watts 'moderate-high' lighting can contain.
So it would be best to have macroalgae and ditch my original set-up. But only a small amount of macroalgae because of the lighting and water quality issue.
And although I will have a copepod culture I will still need a brine shrimp hatchery because the dwarfs basically have no stomach and can eat all day.

Alrighty I have summarized all the information that I have received.

Thank everyone for all of your help.

P.S I live in Texas and communte to massachusetts for college

-loyalhero
 
Back
Top