i have a purple tang that jsut today is apparently dying. he cannot stay upright and is literally doing somersaults. I treated him for ich a couple of weeks ago and all symptoms were gone. He was fine until about Thursday. I noticed a white streak across the top of his head. no spots like ich though. he has been eating and swimming fine until tonight. I have been out all day and when i got home noticed him struggling to stay upright. am i right to assume that he is dying? I do not have a quarentine tank and dont have the heart to fish him out now. should I jsut wait for him to die to get him out. I feel so bad for him. He is about 3 years old!!!
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dying tang
- Thread starter bveselka
- Start date
no other fish are stressed- corals look awesome. he was treated in the main tank with the others with a reef safe treatment- no reacclimation necessary. He is surprisingly still alive this morning- color looks great- just upside down??? another poster mentioned something about a deflated airbag or something? i will be testing parameters this morning.
I found this:
Health Issues
The best way to prevent your fish from becoming ill is to follow the basic rules to having good aquarium management. Feed the fish specified amounts, maintain proper temperature and water conditions. Be sure to make frequent water changes and supply enough oxygen. Unfortunately, illness sometimes still occurs. When fish become ill they show signs in their behavior such as: (see photos illustrating disease)
clamped fins
shaking bodies
constant scratching against objects in the tank
hiding in the corners
gasping at the surface
swimming abnormally
Most fish diseases can be treated if caught in time (below is a list of some common problems seen in goldfish) or you can view a diagnostic guide of specific signs or symptoms or read medications list here
[General Faqs/Problems] [Fish supplies] [Poop Diagnosis]
[Anchor worm] [Bacterial infection] [Dropsy] [Fin-Tail Rot] [Fungus] [Ick] [Ulcers]
[Swimbladder] [Flipover Disease] [Constipation] [Clamped fins]
[Pop eyes] [Skin flukes] [Cloudy eye] [Chilodonella] [Losing Scales]
[Blood flagellates] [Black spot] [Slime Disease] [ Red Fins] [Spitting]
[Swimming With Mouth Open] [Laying Over] [Color Changes] [Bent spine]
[Sitting on the Bottom] [Jumping] [Milky Skin] [Split Fin] [Flashing-Scratching]
[Worms Under Scales] [Fish Wasting Away] [Bulging Eyes] [White Eye]
[Costia] [Fish leech] [Fish lice] [Tuberculosis] [Internal Parasitic Worms]
[Septicemia] [Velvet Disease] [Inflammation] [Columnaris-Cotton Wool Disease]
[Copepods] [Tumours] [Fish Pox] [Salts] [Salt dosage chart]
[Humane Disposal of ill fish]
Anchor Worm (see photos) worms appear as 1/4 to 3/8 inch piece of string that has a forked tail. Anchor worms that grow large are easily detectable and cause considerable distress to the fish. In most cases, the parasite is introduced into the aquarium from live foods. Anchor worms will bore through the skin of the fish, creating ulcerations or blood spots on the fish's body. (Don't confuse this ulceration with those caused by bacterial diseases). You will want to treat for this immediately it is contagious! Symptoms: Clear to white, green or brown-red string-like worms, with forked tails are visible on the skin, head or mouth of the fish. Open sores may also appear on the fish's skin with the worms(parasites) protruding from the sore. Treatments: If you can see the parasites you can kill them with Dimilin. It is a gyrase inhibitor that is added directly into the water. It is non-toxic to the fish. It will clear the parasites within 3 to 4 days. Visit your local petstore and purchase some medication that states it treats anchor worms and follow directions accurately! Another method is to take a pair of tweezers and carefully remove the worm. (back to top)
Bacterial Infection (see photos) Bacterial diseases are usually the result of unsanitary tanks, cold water, over-crowding, corn-based diets, or parasite infestation. There are several forms of bacterial infections that can infect your fish. Many times the symptoms of bacterial disease can be visible on the fish. Such common diseases are Fin Rot, Ulcers, and Dropsy. Other bacterial infections are impossible to distinguish without running laboratory tests. It is not necessary to identify the specifics before you can treat the fish. To help prevent this maintain proper water conditions. Symptoms: Cloudy eyes, open sores on the body, abscesses, inflammation of the skin(reddening), fins or internal organs. Bulging eyes may be present or possibly rapid breathing. Treatment: A fish infected with a bacterial disease should be treated in a separate tank( if possible). The best medicine is a broad spectrum gram negative antibiotic such as furan, kanamycin sulfate, or spectrogram. There are other possible treatments. See your local pet store. (back to top)
Dropsy (see diagram) Dropsy is not a specific disease, but rather a condition where the fish's abdomen becomes swollen. It causes concentration of the fluids in the body tissues or cavities. This results in swelling of the fish's abdomen, thus creating a pinecone effect. The scales protrude from the body. A sudden swelling of the abdomen (scales may stick out) is known as acute dropsy while a slow swelling of the abdomen is known as chronic dropsy. The actual cause of this swelling could be one of several conditions:
Acute Dropsy - Internal bacterial infection can cause internal bleeding and thus cause acute dropsy.
Chronic Dropsy - cancer: In this case, the abdomen is slow to swell as the cancer affects the fish's internal organs. If the fish is not isolated in the early stages of the disease, it could spread to other fish that are being housed with the ill fish.
Chronic Dropsy - parasites: Internal parasites can cause dropsy(abdominal swelling) because they are rather large parasites or because of the damage they are causing with the fish's organs. The abdomen tends to swell over a period of time if the fish is infested with internal parasites. It is best to isolate the sick fish at once to help maintain the outbreak of disease with other fish!
Goldfish are said to be somewhat more prone to dropsy than other fish. In some cases it is caused by a Costia Infection. Be careful when making this decision. Some fish could be spawning. Symptoms: The body will have a general swelling with protrusion of scales. The eyes may even bulge. Treatment: Dropsy is not very contagious. The earlier it is caught the more likely treatment will be helpful. It is best to up the water temp to about 82-86 degrees and use epsom salts (1/8 teaspoon of epsom salts per 5 gallons) instead of aquarium salts because they will help the fish to lose some of the fluid that has built up. (It is common to think that salts would help, but in reality the fish is bloating and having a hard time ridding its body of fluid; whereas the epsom salts will "draw out toxins"). It is also wise to increase aeration since the temps will be higher. Water quality is very important at this time. This will have to be tried for about 2 weeks. Now if you think the fish is suffering from parasites you will need to treat for them first. (back to top) click below link for photos and a more detailed explanation of this issue!
http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/puregold/disease/dropsy.html
Fin or Tail Rot (see photos) Fins that are badly torn or frayed for reasons other than fighting will usually indicate fin or tail rot. Fin or tail rot is a bacterial disease that usually attacks weak or minimally damaged fin edges. Once established, the bacterium consumes the fin as it works its way up toward the fish's body. This causes the fins to appear frayed or ragged or in severe cases nearly stubs. Frayed fins can also be a sign of water problems in which case the pH, ammonia, or nitrites are too high. You should check your water conditons before treating. The best prevention is to maintain accurate water conditions. Sometimes the salt level will be too high. This can cause the effects of fin-rot. Symptoms: The fish's tail or fins are ragged, frayed or appear to be shrinking or decaying. Goldfish may have red streaks in their veiltails. Treatment: It is best treated with an antibiotic. There will be one best suitable at your local pet store. Make sure it states that it treats Fin or Tail Rot. In some cases a secondary infection or fungus will appear. If this is the case, treat the fish for the fin rot and then proceed to the fungus problem.(back to top)
Fungus (see photos) In most cases, fungus is a secondary infection. If a fish has an open sore caused from injuries or even a recent disease which may have penetrated the skin, the lack of mucus covering would leave the sore unprotected. During this period of time the wound would be open to a secondary infection from fungus. To prevent fungus avoid overcrowding, remove sharp objects from the tank, use a jar or container to catch your fish( I don't like nets), and try not to frighten your fish. Symptoms: The fish has patches of white or gray fuzzy puffs(resembles cotton) attached to its skin. There may be excessive mucus on the fish's gills or surrounding the wounds. Treatment: If medicated quickly, fungus is easy to cure. There are several fungicide medications available. Most include drugs such as: acriflavine, neutroflavine, copper sulfate. Fungal medications are sometimes applied directly to the patch of fungus present on the fish. This is generally done with a cotton swab. Check your local petstore. (back to top)
Ick (see photos) This is the most scene or rather common parasitic disease among fish. It is almost always present in freshwater aquariums and infects fish that are in poor health or have had a recent infection that has temporarily left them with a lower immune system. Ick can be visible on a fish if their natural resistance is weakened. Symptoms: A fish that has contacted Ick will generally have a few small specks resembling the look of being sprinkled with salt. The fish may scratch itself of tank walls or ornaments, show signs of rapid breathing, cloudy eyes, cloudy fins/ or some fin deterioration. Treatment: At the first signs of Ick, the fish should be treated in a separate tank if possible. There are many items available on the market for the treatment of this. (back to top)
Male goldfish will have white spots that resemble ICK on their gill plates and pectoral fins. These spots show that they are of breeding age. see photo
Constipation- This is often caused by a diet without enough variety, or by feeding too many starchy type foods. Symptoms: If your fish is having trouble passing feces, or if they are forever trailing behind a fish, your fish may be suffering from constipation. Treatment: Feeding your fish a diet with more roughage and a greater variety sometimes helps! Feed live foods such as (wax worms, brine shrimp, tubiflex worms, etc.) peas, spinach. If you can get your fish to eat one grain of Epson salt it can also help aid with the constipation. Soaking dry fish food in some water taken from the tank will soften the food and help in the digestion process. (back to top) More info on constipation/diarrhea
The below information was sent in by DAVID BRUNY
DEAR GOLDFISH LOVERS, MY NAME IS DAVID BRUNY AND I HAVE SOME VERY IMPORTANT FOR ALL OF YOU CONCERNING GOLDFISH CONSTIPATION; THERE IS A CURE FOR YOUR FISH IF YOU SEE THEM FLOATING UPSIDE DOWN.THE CURE:GET A SMALL GLASS(LIKE A SHOT GLASS) AND FILL IT WITH A LITTLE CASTOR OIL SOAK A FEW GOLDFISH FLAKE FOOD FLAKES IN THE CASTOR OIL THEN WITH A TWEEZER PICK UP A FEW OF THE FLAKES AND FEED THE(CASTOR OIL SOAKED FLAKES) TO THE AFFLICTED FISH (NOT TOO MUCH NOW) JUST ENOUGH TO GET THE OIL IN THEIR SYSTEM. I DID THIS FOR MY PRIZED RYUNKIN AND IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!!!!!!.PLEASE SHARE THIS INFO WITH ALL FISH LOVERS.THANK YOU DAVID BRUNY
Slime Disease- There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in similar ways. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and Chilodonella (being the most resistant) . Once the disease has spread to the gills, it is at its deadliest form, and could prove fatal to the fish. Symptoms: frayed fins, sluggishness, dulled coloration, damaged gills, and even death. Treatment: There are many medications available to help with this illness. It is a good idea to treat the main tank to ensure that you have removed all traces of the harmful parasite from the tank! While treating the tank leave the filters running but remove any activated carbon from the tank or you will just remove any medication you have placed in the water. If the Slime disease does not clear up after following directions and use of a medication, it is most likely the Chilodonella strain and additional action must be followed. Try giving your fish a bath in salt mixed with water. If no results are occurring you may try asking a veterinarian for information on using a bath of water and formalin. The reason: a more knowledgeable person needs to assist is the fact that the fish could experience more adverse problems if the product is not administered correctly! (back to top)
Clamped Fins- The most common reason a fish will show signs of clamped fins is when the water quality is poor. Especially if the pH has crashed! Parasites can also cause this. If your water checks out fine you might consider treating with Fluke tabs. Check for ammonia, pH, and nitrites. (back to top)
Read about water conditions herep
Swim Bladder- Swim or air bladder problems sometimes occur in freshwater fish. I have personally seen this is fancy goldfish such as Orandas, Ryunkins, and Shubunkins. When the bladder is effected, the fish will experience equilibrium problems. Sometimes, the problem is not the bladder but other problems which directly affect the bladder. Diseased and inflamed internal organs, improper water conditions or nutrition, and wounds received from fighting with another fish can also effect the equilibrium of the fish. Constipation is also known to affect a fish's swimming ability! Symptoms: The fish has problems swimming correctly. They may appear to be standing on their head, or floating to the surface and struggling to go down to the bottom, or possibly even have problems removing themselves from the bottom. At the later stages of the disease, the fish could lose its balance and swim upside down. Treatment: There is no specific treatment for this dilemma;however, you can try isolating the fish to a quarantine tank in which the water is shallow(this provides relief for the fish). Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. Some individuals will feed thawed out frozen peas and this purges the fish's system and has been noted to help many fish. After 1-2 weeks a return to the main tank with deeper water may be tried. The best advice I can give is to maintain proper water conditions, feed your fish a well balanced diet, and possibly try feeding your goldfish sinking foods rather than floating types. They won't inhale so much air this way. The pellets if soaked in water before feeding will expand before the fish eats them and this has helped a lot. Good luck with this!!
Health Issues
The best way to prevent your fish from becoming ill is to follow the basic rules to having good aquarium management. Feed the fish specified amounts, maintain proper temperature and water conditions. Be sure to make frequent water changes and supply enough oxygen. Unfortunately, illness sometimes still occurs. When fish become ill they show signs in their behavior such as: (see photos illustrating disease)
clamped fins
shaking bodies
constant scratching against objects in the tank
hiding in the corners
gasping at the surface
swimming abnormally
Most fish diseases can be treated if caught in time (below is a list of some common problems seen in goldfish) or you can view a diagnostic guide of specific signs or symptoms or read medications list here
[General Faqs/Problems] [Fish supplies] [Poop Diagnosis]
[Anchor worm] [Bacterial infection] [Dropsy] [Fin-Tail Rot] [Fungus] [Ick] [Ulcers]
[Swimbladder] [Flipover Disease] [Constipation] [Clamped fins]
[Pop eyes] [Skin flukes] [Cloudy eye] [Chilodonella] [Losing Scales]
[Blood flagellates] [Black spot] [Slime Disease] [ Red Fins] [Spitting]
[Swimming With Mouth Open] [Laying Over] [Color Changes] [Bent spine]
[Sitting on the Bottom] [Jumping] [Milky Skin] [Split Fin] [Flashing-Scratching]
[Worms Under Scales] [Fish Wasting Away] [Bulging Eyes] [White Eye]
[Costia] [Fish leech] [Fish lice] [Tuberculosis] [Internal Parasitic Worms]
[Septicemia] [Velvet Disease] [Inflammation] [Columnaris-Cotton Wool Disease]
[Copepods] [Tumours] [Fish Pox] [Salts] [Salt dosage chart]
[Humane Disposal of ill fish]
Anchor Worm (see photos) worms appear as 1/4 to 3/8 inch piece of string that has a forked tail. Anchor worms that grow large are easily detectable and cause considerable distress to the fish. In most cases, the parasite is introduced into the aquarium from live foods. Anchor worms will bore through the skin of the fish, creating ulcerations or blood spots on the fish's body. (Don't confuse this ulceration with those caused by bacterial diseases). You will want to treat for this immediately it is contagious! Symptoms: Clear to white, green or brown-red string-like worms, with forked tails are visible on the skin, head or mouth of the fish. Open sores may also appear on the fish's skin with the worms(parasites) protruding from the sore. Treatments: If you can see the parasites you can kill them with Dimilin. It is a gyrase inhibitor that is added directly into the water. It is non-toxic to the fish. It will clear the parasites within 3 to 4 days. Visit your local petstore and purchase some medication that states it treats anchor worms and follow directions accurately! Another method is to take a pair of tweezers and carefully remove the worm. (back to top)
Bacterial Infection (see photos) Bacterial diseases are usually the result of unsanitary tanks, cold water, over-crowding, corn-based diets, or parasite infestation. There are several forms of bacterial infections that can infect your fish. Many times the symptoms of bacterial disease can be visible on the fish. Such common diseases are Fin Rot, Ulcers, and Dropsy. Other bacterial infections are impossible to distinguish without running laboratory tests. It is not necessary to identify the specifics before you can treat the fish. To help prevent this maintain proper water conditions. Symptoms: Cloudy eyes, open sores on the body, abscesses, inflammation of the skin(reddening), fins or internal organs. Bulging eyes may be present or possibly rapid breathing. Treatment: A fish infected with a bacterial disease should be treated in a separate tank( if possible). The best medicine is a broad spectrum gram negative antibiotic such as furan, kanamycin sulfate, or spectrogram. There are other possible treatments. See your local pet store. (back to top)
Dropsy (see diagram) Dropsy is not a specific disease, but rather a condition where the fish's abdomen becomes swollen. It causes concentration of the fluids in the body tissues or cavities. This results in swelling of the fish's abdomen, thus creating a pinecone effect. The scales protrude from the body. A sudden swelling of the abdomen (scales may stick out) is known as acute dropsy while a slow swelling of the abdomen is known as chronic dropsy. The actual cause of this swelling could be one of several conditions:
Acute Dropsy - Internal bacterial infection can cause internal bleeding and thus cause acute dropsy.
Chronic Dropsy - cancer: In this case, the abdomen is slow to swell as the cancer affects the fish's internal organs. If the fish is not isolated in the early stages of the disease, it could spread to other fish that are being housed with the ill fish.
Chronic Dropsy - parasites: Internal parasites can cause dropsy(abdominal swelling) because they are rather large parasites or because of the damage they are causing with the fish's organs. The abdomen tends to swell over a period of time if the fish is infested with internal parasites. It is best to isolate the sick fish at once to help maintain the outbreak of disease with other fish!
Goldfish are said to be somewhat more prone to dropsy than other fish. In some cases it is caused by a Costia Infection. Be careful when making this decision. Some fish could be spawning. Symptoms: The body will have a general swelling with protrusion of scales. The eyes may even bulge. Treatment: Dropsy is not very contagious. The earlier it is caught the more likely treatment will be helpful. It is best to up the water temp to about 82-86 degrees and use epsom salts (1/8 teaspoon of epsom salts per 5 gallons) instead of aquarium salts because they will help the fish to lose some of the fluid that has built up. (It is common to think that salts would help, but in reality the fish is bloating and having a hard time ridding its body of fluid; whereas the epsom salts will "draw out toxins"). It is also wise to increase aeration since the temps will be higher. Water quality is very important at this time. This will have to be tried for about 2 weeks. Now if you think the fish is suffering from parasites you will need to treat for them first. (back to top) click below link for photos and a more detailed explanation of this issue!
http://www.mu.edu/~buxtoni/puregold/disease/dropsy.html
Fin or Tail Rot (see photos) Fins that are badly torn or frayed for reasons other than fighting will usually indicate fin or tail rot. Fin or tail rot is a bacterial disease that usually attacks weak or minimally damaged fin edges. Once established, the bacterium consumes the fin as it works its way up toward the fish's body. This causes the fins to appear frayed or ragged or in severe cases nearly stubs. Frayed fins can also be a sign of water problems in which case the pH, ammonia, or nitrites are too high. You should check your water conditons before treating. The best prevention is to maintain accurate water conditions. Sometimes the salt level will be too high. This can cause the effects of fin-rot. Symptoms: The fish's tail or fins are ragged, frayed or appear to be shrinking or decaying. Goldfish may have red streaks in their veiltails. Treatment: It is best treated with an antibiotic. There will be one best suitable at your local pet store. Make sure it states that it treats Fin or Tail Rot. In some cases a secondary infection or fungus will appear. If this is the case, treat the fish for the fin rot and then proceed to the fungus problem.(back to top)
Fungus (see photos) In most cases, fungus is a secondary infection. If a fish has an open sore caused from injuries or even a recent disease which may have penetrated the skin, the lack of mucus covering would leave the sore unprotected. During this period of time the wound would be open to a secondary infection from fungus. To prevent fungus avoid overcrowding, remove sharp objects from the tank, use a jar or container to catch your fish( I don't like nets), and try not to frighten your fish. Symptoms: The fish has patches of white or gray fuzzy puffs(resembles cotton) attached to its skin. There may be excessive mucus on the fish's gills or surrounding the wounds. Treatment: If medicated quickly, fungus is easy to cure. There are several fungicide medications available. Most include drugs such as: acriflavine, neutroflavine, copper sulfate. Fungal medications are sometimes applied directly to the patch of fungus present on the fish. This is generally done with a cotton swab. Check your local petstore. (back to top)
Ick (see photos) This is the most scene or rather common parasitic disease among fish. It is almost always present in freshwater aquariums and infects fish that are in poor health or have had a recent infection that has temporarily left them with a lower immune system. Ick can be visible on a fish if their natural resistance is weakened. Symptoms: A fish that has contacted Ick will generally have a few small specks resembling the look of being sprinkled with salt. The fish may scratch itself of tank walls or ornaments, show signs of rapid breathing, cloudy eyes, cloudy fins/ or some fin deterioration. Treatment: At the first signs of Ick, the fish should be treated in a separate tank if possible. There are many items available on the market for the treatment of this. (back to top)
Male goldfish will have white spots that resemble ICK on their gill plates and pectoral fins. These spots show that they are of breeding age. see photo
Constipation- This is often caused by a diet without enough variety, or by feeding too many starchy type foods. Symptoms: If your fish is having trouble passing feces, or if they are forever trailing behind a fish, your fish may be suffering from constipation. Treatment: Feeding your fish a diet with more roughage and a greater variety sometimes helps! Feed live foods such as (wax worms, brine shrimp, tubiflex worms, etc.) peas, spinach. If you can get your fish to eat one grain of Epson salt it can also help aid with the constipation. Soaking dry fish food in some water taken from the tank will soften the food and help in the digestion process. (back to top) More info on constipation/diarrhea
The below information was sent in by DAVID BRUNY
DEAR GOLDFISH LOVERS, MY NAME IS DAVID BRUNY AND I HAVE SOME VERY IMPORTANT FOR ALL OF YOU CONCERNING GOLDFISH CONSTIPATION; THERE IS A CURE FOR YOUR FISH IF YOU SEE THEM FLOATING UPSIDE DOWN.THE CURE:GET A SMALL GLASS(LIKE A SHOT GLASS) AND FILL IT WITH A LITTLE CASTOR OIL SOAK A FEW GOLDFISH FLAKE FOOD FLAKES IN THE CASTOR OIL THEN WITH A TWEEZER PICK UP A FEW OF THE FLAKES AND FEED THE(CASTOR OIL SOAKED FLAKES) TO THE AFFLICTED FISH (NOT TOO MUCH NOW) JUST ENOUGH TO GET THE OIL IN THEIR SYSTEM. I DID THIS FOR MY PRIZED RYUNKIN AND IT WORKED LIKE A CHARM!!!!!!!!.PLEASE SHARE THIS INFO WITH ALL FISH LOVERS.THANK YOU DAVID BRUNY
Slime Disease- There are various types of protozoa which can cause these symptoms, and they are treated in similar ways. The different parasites are Costia (Ichtybodo), Cyclochaeta (Trichodina), and Chilodonella (being the most resistant) . Once the disease has spread to the gills, it is at its deadliest form, and could prove fatal to the fish. Symptoms: frayed fins, sluggishness, dulled coloration, damaged gills, and even death. Treatment: There are many medications available to help with this illness. It is a good idea to treat the main tank to ensure that you have removed all traces of the harmful parasite from the tank! While treating the tank leave the filters running but remove any activated carbon from the tank or you will just remove any medication you have placed in the water. If the Slime disease does not clear up after following directions and use of a medication, it is most likely the Chilodonella strain and additional action must be followed. Try giving your fish a bath in salt mixed with water. If no results are occurring you may try asking a veterinarian for information on using a bath of water and formalin. The reason: a more knowledgeable person needs to assist is the fact that the fish could experience more adverse problems if the product is not administered correctly! (back to top)
Clamped Fins- The most common reason a fish will show signs of clamped fins is when the water quality is poor. Especially if the pH has crashed! Parasites can also cause this. If your water checks out fine you might consider treating with Fluke tabs. Check for ammonia, pH, and nitrites. (back to top)
Read about water conditions herep
Swim Bladder- Swim or air bladder problems sometimes occur in freshwater fish. I have personally seen this is fancy goldfish such as Orandas, Ryunkins, and Shubunkins. When the bladder is effected, the fish will experience equilibrium problems. Sometimes, the problem is not the bladder but other problems which directly affect the bladder. Diseased and inflamed internal organs, improper water conditions or nutrition, and wounds received from fighting with another fish can also effect the equilibrium of the fish. Constipation is also known to affect a fish's swimming ability! Symptoms: The fish has problems swimming correctly. They may appear to be standing on their head, or floating to the surface and struggling to go down to the bottom, or possibly even have problems removing themselves from the bottom. At the later stages of the disease, the fish could lose its balance and swim upside down. Treatment: There is no specific treatment for this dilemma;however, you can try isolating the fish to a quarantine tank in which the water is shallow(this provides relief for the fish). Add one teaspoon of salt per gallon of water. Some individuals will feed thawed out frozen peas and this purges the fish's system and has been noted to help many fish. After 1-2 weeks a return to the main tank with deeper water may be tried. The best advice I can give is to maintain proper water conditions, feed your fish a well balanced diet, and possibly try feeding your goldfish sinking foods rather than floating types. They won't inhale so much air this way. The pellets if soaked in water before feeding will expand before the fish eats them and this has helped a lot. Good luck with this!!
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