Edison Customers Beware!!!

wow Nicole, that site is a trip....lots of good info. I went to UT @ Austin, there sure are alot of folks like Michael Bluejay out there.
 
The electricity portion of my ladwp bill is $262.47 for 2 months with a usage of 2524 KWH. Comes out to a whopping .10 a KWH taxes included.

Water and sewer ads another $130 to the bill.

I'll take it, bad management and all.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7775249#post7775249 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NicoleC
Josh, get the Kill-A-Watt meter(s) and find out for sure. Otherwise you may break down the tnak and not solve the problem!

Everywhere I look I find this guy.

killawatt1.jpg


However I would need one that provided two inputs since my tank uses both plugs of my duplex. And I would need one that supports 20 Amps since my outlets are 20 Amps, although the 15 Amp prongs will obviously fit, I don't know if the actual meter supports readings above 15 Amps.

Anyone know if there are other types of meters like this for 20A and two outlets at once?

THanks
JOsh
 
I just upgraded from a 120G 2 250W HQIs to a 180G 3 250W HQS. I have been running them both since the 180 came with livestock and I intend to transfer my livestock from the 120 over to the 180. I am scarred of what the cost is going to be... I just connected a chiller to the 180 last night too!! oh boy am I scared...

I need to shut down my old tank ASAP!!!

I read mention of a Kilowatt meter. How do they work? Do you just place it near the plug? I have been really ****ed that my elec bill went up like 30% back in like January. I heard there was a wage increase for the LA county power workers and that's why it went up. Is this heresay?

I love my tank/tanks but I am having a hard time now thinking that my bill is going to be like $350 a month. That is a significant chunk of change!!!!
 
I have looked and looked -- there are no 20amp meters and no 220v meters either, at least not at the consumer level. Even the expensive WATTS UP only does 15amps. Grrr.

I would first try measuring your major items -- like return pumps and lights -- individually, for 24 or 48 hours. That will be more useful in the long run, because you will be able to see what the serious energy users are.

Just 'cause you have a 20amp circuit doesn't mean you use all of it at once. As long as the device(s) themselves are below 15amps, not problem. Otherwise you will probably fry the Kill-A-Watt.
 
Oh yeah, and since it's so big, getting a $3 pigtail from Fry's is probably in order, so you don't block a whole outlet or powerstrip if you need to get to it.

SPSFiend - you plug it in to an outlet, then plug the device into it. It measures how much power the device draws from your electrical system. Fair warning -- it has no battery backup, and when you unplug the Kill-A-Watt you lose your readings! So have a pen and paper handy when you go to read it.

The WATTS UP device ($136 at Amazon) does store info.
 
Cali folks you aint the only ones. Mine FL bill was all time high. Raied it $100 last month and its been hotter this month. Im predicting a mass For sale in the Equiopment and dry good forum. WHo can afford this hobby at these prices. LED lighting starting to look interesting now....
Someone needs to invent Solar powered pumps and lights and keep us in Reefing!!!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7779001#post7779001 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fmellish
Everywhere I look I find this guy.

killawatt1.jpg


However I would need one that provided two inputs since my tank uses both plugs of my duplex. And I would need one that supports 20 Amps since my outlets are 20 Amps, although the 15 Amp prongs will obviously fit, I don't know if the actual meter supports readings above 15 Amps.

Anyone know if there are other types of meters like this for 20A and two outlets at once?

THanks
JOsh

Josh,

Plug each individual item and rate it. Then add together to get your total. Your 20AMP breaker is just there so you don't pull more than 20AMPs which is designed to protect the wiring only.

Your chiller and lighting will be the biggest offenders.

BTW-Where did you find the meter?
I checked Home Depot and Lowes and couldn't find one.
 
Got mine at Amazon.

And the reason they are 15A only is because most household outlets only go to 15 anyway...

I'd be surprised to see many people actually over 15 on a circuit, frankly. It could happen, I know, but I think the vast majority of us would end up within the 15.

So how about throwing one each on 2 15A circuits? I mean, for the money, who cares?

Also, one of these could be used and just plug each item into it on it's own and do the math. Chillers, for example, as well as lights should have a fairly constant amount of amperage they will draw.

Just a thought...
 
Kitchen circuits are generally 20amps, especially the circuit the oven is on!

I agree -- get two and call it a day. Not long ago, these were $50 each, so consider it a 2-for-1 deal.
 
Does anyone have any usage numbers for various eqipment? Chillers for example . . . Could we compare usage for different types of chillers to see which is most efficient. Just a thought.
 
I can post the excel spread sheat I have on my tank equiptment and its usage. But things like chillers very depending on how much it runs. So my chiller numbers will be totally different then yours. It will take a bit for me to clean it up.
 
ok - so perhaps chiller was a bad example - just thought perhaps it could be useful to compare how much usage various equipment has compared to that posted on the manufacture's websites.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7775984#post7775984 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NicoleC
A couple of odds and ends I have picked up trying to figure cost/ ROI:

Batteries need to be replaced every 5-10 years.
You should have your system inspected yearly.
You should get up on the roof and house off your solar modules every 4-6 months.
MOST systems do not produce power a night and produce less power on cloudy days. But if you get a big enough system, net metering (energy credits for excess power returned to the local power utility grid) during the day will cover the costs of the power you pull at night from the main grid.
Only SOME systems cover power outages.

Info on Financial Incentives for installation in California:
http://www.dsireusa.org/library/includes/map2.cfm?CurrentPageID=1&State=CA&RE=1&EE=1

SCE Funds for Incentives (separate than above):
http://www.sce.com/RebatesandSavings/SelfGenerationIncentiveProgram/

Someone here mentioned they had a buddy that was doing commercial installs. I am doing prelimary investigation into the feasibility of a system for our whole condo complex and would to contact this guy!

Actually doesn't have to worried about battery. The solar hook up to the "GRID" or the power company.

So basicly what you don't use, the electric company will give you credit for it.

You could use the credit when the sun doesn't shine, the credit reset at the end of each year.
 
Sure, but backup battery systems are great for when the power goes out. :)

By law, even if there is an outage and your system is still generating power, they have to shut your power off, too. Don't ask me why or how that works, but if you have backup batteries, you can keep running.

Another neat factoid I came across:
California Solar Rights Act of 1978 (Civil Code section 714):
Homeowner associations must not place unreasonable restrictions on homeowners wishing to install solar energy systems.

This law relates to homeowner associations. This code states that Community Covenants and Restrictions (CC&Rs) that prohibit or unreasonably restrict the installation or use of solar energy systems are void and unenforceable. It does provide for reasonable restrictions that donรƒยขรขโ€šยฌรขโ€žยขt significantly (more than 20%) increase the cost or reduce the output of a solar system from the original design.
Reasonable restrictions include 1) that the owner of the system take responsibility for roof maintenance, repair and replacement and 2) that the installers indemnify the association for any damage caused by the installation, maintenance, or use of the solar energy system. Any homeowner covered by CC&Rs who has a roof immediately above his or her living space can use the roof for a solar system. A strategy to get maximum flexibility and output from the final รƒยขรขโ€šยฌร…โ€œcompromiseรƒยขรขโ€šยฌร‚ย design is to propose a system designed to optimize solar production, at minimum cost, not considering other factors. Then, through the necessary negotiation stages to adjust for aesthetics, a final design might be achieved that isnรƒยขรขโ€šยฌรขโ€žยขt far from the owners original intention. There may be significant costs associated with taking on responsibility for the roof maintenance that should be discussed and negotiated before project advancement. It may be possible to have a portion of association dues for roofing held separately.
 
Man! I miss Azusa

I see things getting A LOT worse with no relief in sight. I'm with Steve, buy some grease, A LOT of grease cause we're all going to need it. These companies are all jumping on the band wagon, its not fare that the gas co. can rape us and they can't. They should all be able to rape us equally.

That beady eyed SOB has got to go.
 
Nicole-the meters only go up to 15 amps because it's only safe to load a circuit with 75% of it's rating if I remember correctly. So even a 20amp circuit shouldn't have more than 15 amps running through it...
 
wow all i have to say is all of this gives me a headache. my bill hasnt gone up much but i am still spending 100 a month for a 1bdr apartment. im gunna go home tomorrow and get a bunch of timers to put things on.
 

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