Electrical Costs Killing Me!!!

Again, they all use the same data and logic. They take the wattage and best case expected life of a CFL vs the WORST case life of an Edison bulb and then extrapolate those numbers to world wide use. It is by no means even close to a cradle-to-grave analysis that touches on ANY of the realities listed above. You can google 100 such pro CFL "studies". That is exactly what IS driving the misinformation. Those (3) links above are laughable at best. The third one is the best. It claims to be a comprehensive lifecycle study but does not touch on any of part of the lifecycle other than the best case CFL to the worst case standard bulb life of 5:1 Again... cradle-to-grave reality, not sales literature or green hype is what counts.
 
Well I am always happy to learn. Show me a study with different results please.

Exactly. Put up or shut up. None of BA's arguments contain any hard numbers. Your gut feeling of what the comparative numbers may be doesn't make for a good argument.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13194564#post13194564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Again, you can not just turn some stuff off and compare one months bill to another... There are simply way too many variables. Sure turning off very large usage appliances will show a difference, but to say that "I turned off some power strips and my hot water heater and save $280" is simply not supported by the reality.

80 for A/C ... why bother. An attic fan would keep the house cooler and be very efficient.

I hate to break it to you, but modern water heaters do not leak much heat. Adding a $15 insulation blanket will rarely ever pay for itself. An ELECTRIC hot water heater wastes VERY LITTLE energy (there is no flue that allows hot gas to escape and/or cold air to contact that tank and convect the heat away. Cutting the power to a modern hot water heater for 20 of the 24 hours AND NOT using any water in the interim will yield a savings of 10% at best... about 5% if you use water (introduce cold water) from the idle tank. If you saved $30 a month with your timer, that would mean that your water heating bill alone would be in the $300-$600 range! Not a chance unless your heating it on the electric stove.

I am not trying to beat anybody up here, but these are the kind of misconceptions that, left unchecked, fuel urban legend and shuffle people towards agreeing with any "green" or "environmental" or "money saving" law, policy or plan that sounds good, no matter what the facts are.

Also note:
It takes a lot of energy to HEAT the water, very little to keep it hot. Turning off the heater and allowing the water to cool only means it has to be heated again when you want to use it. A BTU is BTU. So turning off the water heater only saves what the water heater leaks to the home in terms of heat. In the winter, that HEAT leaked to the home adds heat to the home... and guess what does not have to work as hard?
Why keep my house at 80? Because it is 110 outside and I doubt a attic fan will cool the house much at that temp. Second on a time of use plan it does not matter how energy effecient anything is if you can shift the cost to where it is .04 kwh. Third I did these changes in stages and now can compare to the same months year over year and each time my bill went down significantly. If turning some stuff on/off on a power strip doesn't make a difference just leave everything plugged in in your house for a month and see what your bill is, then wait a year unplug those items when not in use and then see the difference. As many have already pointed out small draws running 24/7 add up in the long run.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13198754#post13198754 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slug
Exactly. Put up or shut up. None of BA's arguments contain any hard numbers. Your gut feeling of what the comparative numbers may be doesn't make for a good argument.

Your comments are uncalled for. Next time try entering a dicussion in a civil maner or take your own advice...

If you wish to infer that CLEARLY skewed numbers that defy logic and reality are BETTER than a lack of hard numbers that ARE CLEARLY supported by reality and logic, then this is a lost discussion.

Instead of me quantifying (or showing quantification of) the cradle-to-grave costs of a CFL, why don't YOU provide proof that my assertions are wrong? I have pointed out very simple logic based on the reality of ANY manufacturing and distribution model. I have pointed out a Power Factor problem that is 100% ignored by ALL parties involved. Sure, it can be fixed at an even GREATER component footprint, impact and product COST. I have pointed out that the real world physics just don't add up.

Each point I made was logical and follows the simple reality of manufacturing of ANY product. Do you assert that this reality and subsequent logic is wrong? Or are you asserting that because I did not provide real world numbers, that the reality does not exist? If so please explain where the logic is flawed and why.

Lets try some starters:

A CFL bulb contains MUCH more glass than a tungsten filament bulb. If you look into the glass ALONE, you will find that it costs 3x-5x as much to produce the glass for a single CFL bulb as compared to a standard tungsten bulb. A simple study of the glass making process from SILICA mining, to the glass furnace will show you that a significant number of raw materials are involved. Doubling the glass in a bulb doubles the entire footprint of the process. This IS NOT accounted for in ANY stufy I have read. Because it is not accounted for does it not exist?

A CFL bulb contains a ballast. The ballast contains capacitors, resistors, diodes and a few other components (a choke coil, a transformer etc). It contains a large amount of plastic and some elemental mercury. I have never seen the cradle-to-grave footprint of these products included in ANY study of CFL manufacturing. They only account for the COST of these products and the time to assemble them in their finished form into a finished CFL. These materials ARE NOT part of a tungsten bulb. Does that mean that because they (their cradle-to-grave footprint) are NOT accounted for in any of these studies mean that they DO NOT have an impact? Do we need HARD numbers to understand that their is an impact that is ON AND ABOVE that of a tungsten bulb?

What about the weight. Is it not common sense that a product that WEIGHS 2x - 5x as much costs 2x-5x to move down the assembly line? Lift by the forklift? Transport from vendor to store to home? Any process that uses energy creates a "footprint". Have you seen a SINGLE study that accounts for this? I sure have not. Does that mean that because NOBODY has accounted for it, that it does not exist?

Reality check. If a tungsten bulb weighs 1 oz and a CFL weighs 3 oz... it takes 3x the energy to transport the finished bulb from the plant to the end user. It also takes (AT LEAST 3x as much energy) to produce the bulb based on moving the mass of the bulb from process to process. This does not include the cost of processing the large number of raw materials for the sub components of the bulbs. Have you EVER seen this cradle-to-grave impact talked about? Does it not exist?

Just because nobody has taken the time to post what you call "hard numbers" does not mean that the reality does not exist.

For those who wish to really get into this, we can certainly start another thread in an appropriate forum regarding ANY of these costs and impacts.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13198915#post13198915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jgrog76
Why keep my house at 80? Because it is 110 outside and I doubt a attic fan will cool the house much at that temp.
Yeah.. 72 from the AC with an outside temp of 110 would be asking it to work very hard. What is your humidity like. Physocmetrics plays a large role in comfort. You may be pleasantly suprised by what a whole house fan can do in some instances. A 110 outside temperature does not translat into a 110 inside temperature.

Second on a time of use plan it does not matter how energy effecient anything is if you can shift the cost to where it is .04 kwh.
Nobody said anything any differently. You never mentioned a time of use plan (that I saw). You mentioned a kWh rate and that was it.

Third I did these changes in stages and now can compare to the same months year over year and each time my bill went down significantly. If turning some stuff on/off on a power strip doesn't make a difference just leave everything plugged in in your house for a month and see what your bill is, then wait a year unplug those items when not in use and then see the difference. As many have already pointed out small draws running 24/7 add up in the long run.
Of course turning stuff off saves energy, I never said anything to the contrary. I simply disputed the savings based on your presentation of the devices turned off and the real world usage parameters of those devices and I pointed out why. I can show you 6 years worth of bills that show vastly different usage rates from month to month with the same basic stuff plugged in and the same basic lifestyle... it does not prove anything other than my usage differes from month to month.
 
So let me get this straight, mosts states other than CA charge just $0.11 per kiloWatt and it's flat no matter how much you use? No stupid tier system?

If your tank costed an extra $80 on the electricity bill per month, the poor folk in CA actually has to pay $240 on the third teir.
 
you can try going solar. PGE is a lot of money. I am thinking of switching to solar.5.4 kwatt system will knock off the 2 most expensive tiers in my house about 280 in savings but with financing will cost me 350 a month but in 7 years it's paid off and i get to run it for 25 years so get about 18 years of savings on 280 bill.
 
To the OP!

It is not to code to run your home A/C duct to the garage for CO2 and fire reasons. I think even if the garage is decor'd up like a room it does not change this code. Often people do this and it is not right, if in the unfortunate case of a fire your insurance company is likely to deny your claim.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13199204#post13199204 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by StrategicReef
So let me get this straight, mosts states other than CA charge just $0.11 per kiloWatt and it's flat no matter how much you use? No stupid tier system?

If your tank costed an extra $80 on the electricity bill per month, the poor folk in CA actually has to pay $240 on the third teir.

Yup... my $240 bill would be in the $500 range.

I pay about .15 per kWh (pretty high compared to MOST of the US) and use about 2000 kWh per month to the tune of $230-$250.

I think if more people in CA, NY, etc KNEW the reality they would not stand for it (or at least not support the moronic laws that cuase it).

I almost have this spreadsheet done. Once I get it finished I will post it for download. Then you golks can mess around with turning stuff on and off to see how it affects your tiered rates and bill.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13199212#post13199212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scuzy
you can try going solar. PGE is a lot of money. I am thinking of switching to solar.5.4 kwatt system will knock off the 2 most expensive tiers in my house about 280 in savings but with financing will cost me 350 a month but in 7 years it's paid off and i get to run it for 25 years so get about 18 years of savings on 280 bill.

Hey Scuzy


So how much is the system..?

do you figure 5.4kW * 5 good hours = ~~$9 of roll back on the meter a day = ~~$270 a month?

I wish I can really commit to the solar but my roof is not performing well and the labor to take out the solar panels and put it back on new shingles in a later year is going to just cost too much.

The sad thing is it's a second roof on top of the original roof I don't know why it is always leaking in places. It needs to be gutted and redone properly
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13199212#post13199212 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scuzy
you can try going solar. PGE is a lot of money. I am thinking of switching to solar.5.4 kwatt system will knock off the 2 most expensive tiers in my house about 280 in savings but with financing will cost me 350 a month but in 7 years it's paid off and i get to run it for 25 years so get about 18 years of savings on 280 bill.

Before you jump in, look at the real world operating, maintenance and associated costs. Visit some real homeowners and talk to them about their expectations vs their real world savings. They systems have come a long way, but still have a very long way to go. In an area with energy costs as high as some of these folks, they do make a LOT more sense. In areas with lower costs, they do not yet.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13199218#post13199218 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by StrategicReef
To the OP!

It is not to code to run your home A/C duct to the garage for CO2 and fire reasons. I think even if the garage is decor'd up like a room it does not change this code. Often people do this and it is not right, if in the unfortunate case of a fire your insurance company is likely to deny your claim.

Very good point. Attached garages need to be firewalled from the home. However, it may be a moot point if the in-wall tank breaches the wall between the garage and living space :)

A simple fix on both accounts would be to build a fire rated (2 layers of sheetrock) wall around the back of the tank, making it a smal fishroom. Insulate it so that it is isolated from the garage. You will get much more bang for your cooling buck with regard to trying to use the AC to cool it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13199292#post13199292 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
Very good point. Attached garages need to be firewalled from the home. However, it may be a moot point if the in-wall tank breaches the wall between the garage and living space :)

A simple fix on both accounts would be to build a fire rated (2 layers of sheetrock) wall around the back of the tank, making it a smal fishroom. Insulate it so that it is isolated from the garage. You will get much more bang for your cooling buck with regard to trying to use the AC to cool it.

Oh that's right, I didn't think of that big hole in the wall :o


One can still install a window A/C unit without a window, just need to cut out a rectangle and frame the 2x4s to support, the point is to cool down the fish room / garage separately and not have to run your whole house A/C cool down everything.
 
Your comments are uncalled for. Next time try entering a dicussion in a civil maner or take your own advice...

You're right about this and I'm sorry for my tone.

Instead of me quantifying (or showing quantification of) the cradle-to-grave costs of a CFL, why don't YOU provide proof that my assertions are wrong?

Why? I don't disagree with many of your assertions. I guess my point is, which I didn't make clearly or civilly, is that your arguments aren't proving or clarifying anything. Saying currently available data is skewed therefore the opposite of what the possibly skewed data shows must be true is a logical fallacy.

The answer is may not be black and white anyway. Not every cfl is manufactured exactly the same way with the same materials and perform or last the same amount of time.
 
wow this topic certainly got off track. I skipped from page 1 to page 7 and I thought i was in a different thread.

Just my $.02 but turning off ac during the day is not such a great idea especially in summer months. Your ac works much harder to cool down the whole house at one time versus maintaining cool thoughout the day. In addition, humidity buildup in the attic/roof spaces are known to cause mold problems.
 
Do air exchangers use a lot of electricity? I know they are expensive up front but running a dehumidifier all the time uses a lot of electricity. With a fish tank in the basement it can get pretty humid down there. I don't know where the OPs tank is just asking a general electricity use question.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13197664#post13197664 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal

E) CFL bulbs have a Power Factor MUCH LOWER than UNITY. Most consumers do not pay for Power Factor related losses. However, the utility has to generate that LOST power. So you get less light for less money, but they utility has to generate MORE power at THEIR cost.

Can you explain this to me/us better? I don't understand it, even though it has been touched on a few times in this thread.

The bulb is a power compact with a ballast. It needs an initial surge to light the bulb, right? I know that every one of these bulbs states it uses x amount of watts to produce x amount of light. Typically something like 19w puts out 75w of light. So we pay for those 19w. :confused:
 
my 2 cents, CFL's for sure, program your a/c to run at aroun 78-80 upto about 30 min before you get home. Then have run at 72 if that is what you are comfortable at. You should also unplug any apliances you don't use all the time, even when you are not using them they suck up some energy example we unplug the coffee pot, can opener etc except when we're going to use them. It adds up very fast. My wife and I replaced our light bulbs with cfl's and it saved us about 25% on our elct bill. Also turn off fans unless you are in the room, fans don't cool a room, they just move air that cools you. Check out www.gelighting.com it will explain cfl's a little better. I'm lucky and live in OK we have one of the lowest elect prices in the country. I have a 3000 sqf two story home and my average bill is only $ 125 a month, and we get pretty hot in the summer. Anyway my 2 cents. A lot of little changes can make a huge difference.
 
Sorry you are right with the cfl's. It only takes 19watts to equal a 75watt out put. Example you have 10 75 watt bulbs and you change them out to 19watt cfls you would have been using 750watts instead you will be using 190watts to get the same out put Big $$$$$ savings in the long run. Follow the link on ge's web and register with nema and ge will send you a free CFL in the mail.
 
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