electrical help

madean

New member
I am thinking about running two separate dedicated circuits to my current frag build (with the possibility of another frag system tied into it. When doing the math either a 15A or 20A circuit will do, the size of the circuit is not my question. I am wanting to run the wire up thru the attic and down in the wall and transitioning from the wall into my stand. Once in the stand I am wanting to build a multiple outlet board. I have a lot of chords and I want dedicated outlets for the chords ( 8 t5 ballast). So I am basically curious to see if other people have done this instead of running a multiple outlet power strip. If people can post pics that would be great. I hope electricians chime in about this and give some insight. I am not a journeyman electrician but a first year substation electrician. I have some panel experience and feel comfortable running wire, installing a breaker, and doing the job. Its coming up with the idea of what to do, and making sure its up to code. I was thinking of installing two boards (one on each side of the stand). Each board will have 4 single outlet receptacles for the lights and timers and probably 2-4 double outlet receptacles. I'm sure I will work a GFCI in there for protection. I will more than likely install a acrylic protective shield in front of each board for splash protection, but not encasing the board prohibiting air flow. The transition from the wall to the boards is going to be tricky. Are there outlet covers that allow conduit to pass through them so the aesthetics is ok looking. Is it looking like a flush wall conduit mount. I don't know what the code is on something like this for residential. Any credible info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
To save a few $$ use a GFCI Breaker, they run $25-35 depending on 15 or 20amp, vs using GFCI outlets about $8 each. Just be sure to run enough power, better to have too much than waste your time and not have enough. i would go 20amp to be safe, and allow for future expansion. I am not a certified electrician, but rewired my 60yr old house myself, and know go big for the future. hope that helps you some.
 
I personally would get some grey outdoor rated 4 gang boxes. Either mount it away from the tank or put it in a fiberglass enclosure to keep the moisture out and salt spray away. I would also opt for a gfi breaker as it will save you money over running independent gfi's for all your outlets. I work in a wash down rated facility as an electrician. I did my tank with 2 two gangs stacked inside a fiberglass box then ran pigtails for my plugs.
 
if it is a dedicated circuit, then the breaker can be gfci, or they have new type, something about arc something...

and i would go with 20 amp, on at least one of the circuits, and run the chillers and heater, they wont be on at the same time, but are both heavy draws, on one, and the lights on the others...
 
sorry guys i was hoping for some ideas on how to transition the wire from the wall to the box where all of the outlets will be.
mrrogers any chance you could post a pic of your setup. The only reason I was putting in the 4 single outlet receptacles is to put the four t5 ballast on the left side of the tank on timers. Timers are bulky and usually cover two outlets on a receptacle, so why not just put single outlet receptacles. I get what your saying about the fiberglass box idea, I was just thinking the same thing today as I was installing a large fiberglass telecom box today. Kind of funny when the light bulb comes on in your head. I was pretty certain that a 12/2 or 14/2 wire coming out of the wall and going to a fiberglass box is not up to code. Like I said I was kind of hoping for some electricians to chime in and give some insight on whether they have done this or have any ideas as to what will look clean and professional, and up to code. Thank you in advance.
Please any pics would be greatly appreciated.
 
Try talking to the local electrical inspector. Usually they can help.
And I would highly suggest getting a permit. If there's a fire insurance can deny payment if they see non compliant wiring.
 
My work schedule makes it difficult to talk to a local electrical inspector, thats kind of why Im fishing for ideas here on RC.
 
Ultimately, since it appears you are planning to hard wire the tank electrical to the house electrical, you need to find the time to speak with either an inspector or a licensed electrician in your area. The code will be all over your system in terms of damp and wet locations, and use of flexible cords and cable, as well as multi oulet assemblies, are for temporary use only (depending on how they are connected)-- etc. A working knowledge of the code, along with a knowledge of good wiring practices are essential to make it safe and LEGAL. That type of information is hard to pass along in this type of venue. But being a first year, you should be working with journeyman supervision-- and I am certain they can give you some insight.

Having said that, I hard wire systems, use sub panels as needed, outlets etc. but I make a concerted effort to minimize the number of cord and plug connected items. Stugray made up a decent cord and plug connected "panel", but would not be able to find it if I had too.... good wiring practices, with a generous use of GFCIs, however-- missing the one absolutely required by the NEC for the oulet he is connected to: It is right above a sink......

Seven words: Seal Tite flexible conduit is your friend
 
Just do a surface mount weathertight box with liquidtight flex from the wall to the junction boxes. Then grey pvc box to box. Glue your pvc and voila. I cant imagine this being outside of code anywhere else in the US. As long as you use appropriate gauge wire 14/2 for 15amp 12/2 for 20amp a gfi breaker and proper grounds at panel and recepts. The only thing code wise that wont work for your timers is weathertight outlet covers. You can always make pigtails long enough that the timers could be located outside of a wet/damp area. Also a word of caution use service loops for all electrical wires from the recepts or you could end up with water migrating back into it. I have a california building lic. and do process automation and high voltage electrical...
 
thanks for the responses guys- uncle I have been poking around at work for this particular situation and it seems that the I am getting about the same response as what mr rogers was. So again thanks for the input guys
 
Here's what I did for my tank. Plugs into a dedicated outlet, and I distribute the power from there. Master on/off switch, with individual switches for all plugs. Wires go through the panel, so plugs are on the inside to keep cords clean. All are on a GFI.

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Maybe it's too late but you do know that you don't need multiple GFIs. You can line/load them so you just need 1 GFI outlet that can service multiple outlets.
 
stugray;17886021However said:
should[/B] use more than one so that the whole system doesnt go down from a single fault:

Exactly why I did individual. I also didn't want to put all that load on one GFI. For the extra few bucks for a GFI, it's worth my time not having to reset them all.
 
Since you do have some electrical background make sure when you run wire, you're not literally just pulling romex through wall cavities and leaving it at that. Saw one of the Holmes on Homes shows today and holy cow there was a spaghetti factory (I think that was the term they used) of wires all over the place (illegal mind you :D).

Also I'd go with the 20A circuit(s), 12 gauge wire won't be that much more expensive and it could save you for any future power upgrades (lights etc) or it could help with any over-draw on startup current that a lot of equipment likes to yank on.
 
Since you do have some electrical background make sure when you run wire, you're not literally just pulling romex through wall cavities and leaving it at that. Saw one of the Holmes on Homes shows today and holy cow there was a spaghetti factory (I think that was the term they used) of wires all over the place (illegal mind you :D).

Also I'd go with the 20A circuit(s), 12 gauge wire won't be that much more expensive and it could save you for any future power upgrades (lights etc) or it could help with any over-draw on startup current that a lot of equipment likes to yank on.

You are correct. You can't just run a wire out of the wall. It has to terminate into a junction box in the wall (plug). Then you plug your electrical sytem into that plug.
 
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