eliminating detritus

[DNickell]

I am also in a situation where I could not set up a permanently attached RO/DI unit. I got a three stage Spectrapure system and changed out the fittings on the intake line so that I can just screw it onto the bathroom sink faucet, like a garden hose. One day a week I run enough water to last till the next week. I just sit the jugs and/or buckets in the tub, next to the sink, and let the waste water run down the tub drain.

Not having it permanently set up is a bit of a pain, but it is worth it for better water. The water in your tank can never be of higher quality than the water you start with.

For what it is worth, even with the good water, I still get occassional algae blooms but they are not as severe and by catching them when they start I can overcome them much more quickly. I'm still pursuing the goal of eliminating the blooms altogether. I doubt that is a possibility, but it is a goal to approximate.

 

[useskaforevil]

i live in an apartment and i have my RO/DI under the sink and i connect it to the faucet with a $5 adaptor. it might be pain setting up but its much quicker (and cheaper) than running to the nearest water store

 

[bdare]

Are there really this many posts where people are trying to figure out how to get rid of deitrus??? If there was an answer to this problem someone would be a very rich man.

You can never get rid of deitrus. The best you can do is remove it. Keep doing what you are now... Turkey baste it during water changes and vacume it out when you can.

 

[Mappelbaum37]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12531115#post12531115 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bdare
Are there really this many posts where people are trying to figure out how to get rid of deitrus??? If there was an answer to this problem someone would be a very rich man.

You can never get rid of deitrus. The best you can do is remove it. Keep doing what you are now... Turkey baste it during water changes and vacume it out when you can.

I'm not looking for an answer because there are no correct answers in this hobby. I'm looking for advice and opinions on how to get rid of it.

I will work on getting an ro/di system...

I appreciate what you said mr. James. I do have a space limitation. Everyone always tells me I should really have a sump, and I realized that, and if I could get one I would, but there is absolutely no possible way. In the future, definately, but I have to deal with what I have for now...

So, do you think I should get a filter sock for the fluval? I am currently doing what you guys said, by removing as much as i can during water changes.

Thanks

 

[Mappelbaum37]

anyone have suggestions as far as RO/DI units?

 

[Mappelbaum37]

where do I find a TDS meter. I will have just about $5.31 If I buy this RO/DI unit. but seriously, before I spend this money on yet another thing for the tank, I want to test the fish stores RO water for TDS. Can someone explain to me what a TDS is? If the RO water has TDS' how much is a lot?

Thanks

 

[tbittner]

TDS = total disolved sediment

TDS is dirt (it's a lot more than that but that's what it is in short hand notation)

Check out Air, Water, and Ice.

Another good vendor is The Filter Guys.

You can get RO/DI units and tds meters from either of them.

 

[Marklu]

I had an algae problem once and i just couldn't figure out what was going on. But i figured out with a little research.

Nitrates and/or Phosphates.

Even though they test out at 0, it doesn't mean they aren't there. If they algae in your tank is using the phosphates/nitrates at the same rate they are being produced or added by your livestock or source water, then they will not show up when you test for them in the water column.

When i learned this, i decided to try using some phosban and another product called phosbuster. After i dosed, the algae died almost over night.

you might want to look into this, as it could be the problem.

 

[Marklu]

TDS stands for total dissolved solids.

It basically measures the amount "anything but water" there is in the water.

 

[jimwat]

Filter socks work well for me, but you need to have enough flow to keep the detritus in the water column for it to really be effective. BTW, filter socks have to be cleaned fairly often. I clean mine weekly.

Testing for phosphates is hit-n-miss as the phosphates are consumed by your algae. GFO might be what you need to turn the corner. Also, check you alkalinity. The additional calcium you're adding might be driving your alkalinity down (which will contribute to your algae problems).

 

[Mappelbaum37]

I am running phosban in a phosban reactor currently. Sounds like a great success marklu. what is phosbuster? Hoepfully I can share a success story one day. Not yet though.

I was looking on melevreefs website. Theres an ro/di unit for 169 that looks good.

But before I become even more broke, where can I get a TDS meter from?

Thank you

 

[Mr James]

To see how an RO/DI system operates, see this link: http://www.melevsreef.com/ro_di.html

Melev says on his site where to get a cheap TDS meter for $25. But most RO/DI e-tailers have them for sale.

You picked an expensive hobby my friend. RO/DI systems should be at the top of your list, as well as a good skimmer. Looks as though you started with no RO system and a Rio Prism as your choice of skimmers. Your current HA issues are a direct result of those inadequcies. I say this from experience.

I went through 4 skimmers before buying "the better" one. I also paid roughly $350 for my RO/DI system, 7 years ago and have been using the same one all along, just replacing the filters as needed. Just replaced my prefilter and carbon blocker this morning. I run a double DI filter on my unit. Ensures better quality water. Talk to TheFilterGuys for more info.

 

[Mappelbaum37]

Yeah, I just read that..Thanks

 

[nalbar]

No way you should be reading any ammonia. And a skimmerless tank should not read ammonia any more than one with a skimmer. No established tank with live rock should EVER read measurable amounts of ammonia. If it consistently does, you better find the source.

The bacteria in the tank should be converting ammonia as quickly as it is created. If those bacteria cannot convert it, that means they are being 'overwhelmed' by the source. Probably by the ammonia be added consistently.

Ammonia and phosphates are intimately related to decomposition, and both are a key nutrient for algae. Find the source for the ammonia and you probably find your problem.

BTW, the is nothing wrong with using LFS water. Many local fish stores use better RO/DI systems and keep a better eye on their filters than the people on this site. Their tanks are at risk also. I have never owned a RO/DI.

But in this case, I would suspect the water first.


nalbar

 

[Mappelbaum37]

here's the deal...

I'm going to test for ammonia now. The skimmer has been pulling out 1 full collection cup per day. It's pretty awesome.

I'm going to try and order a TDS meter online ASAP bec. neither LFS has them in. Any links to a site that sells them would be a big help. I will test the ro water from the fish store for TDS'. If they're good, I'll continue to use the water. If not, I'll get an ro/di unit. Honestly, I dont want to spend $200 for nothing. What is considered high, or in other words, enough to feed algae?

Thanks for the help

 

[birdman1979]

TDS should be zero. You can get a TDS meter from MD or TFP.

Good Luck! My LFS RO water had tons of phosphate. So did my Home unit. Had to get a huge DI unit to get TDS down to zero.

 

[Mappelbaum37]

tested the ammonia twice for ultimate accuracy. the first test hit .25 on the dot.

the second test looked as if borderline between .25 and 0.

I dont know how I would get rid of ammonia. I have enough trouble getting rid of nitrates and phosphates...

I did just upgrade skimmers to an octo bh300f so this is "the skimmer" for my tank. No new skimmers for a long time.

 

[jimwat]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12532283#post12532283 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mr James
I run a double DI filter on my unit. Ensures better quality water.

Huh! I never thought of doing that. My DI is an add-on to my existing under-sink RO unit anyway. Better quality and more time between cartridge changes...Cool!
:thumbsup:

 

[nevolved]

I got my RO/DI (5 stage) from the guy who sells ReefChili on Ebay. I could not be happier with it.

 

[jimwat]

I just happen to out on www.bulkreefsupply.com and noticed that they are selling a 5 stage unit for $159.