Elliott's Reef: 900g DT , 400g sumps

Congrats on the write up in RB. I still can't give it a perfect 10/10 without the use of coconuts:)

You should repost the pics of your auto venturi flush of your RK2. It's another great automation idea. One could use an auto-top off solenoid to clean a venturi as well as melting frozen food if their wife won't give up their Conair to the freezer :)
 
Congrats on the write up in RB. I still can't give it a perfect 10/10 without the use of coconuts:)

You should repost the pics of your auto venturi flush of your RK2. It's another great automation idea. One could use an auto-top off solenoid to clean a venturi as well as melting frozen food if their wife won't give up their Conair to the freezer :)

lol, thanks! :D
 
You should repost the pics of your auto venturi flush of your RK2. It's another great automation idea.

Auto Venturi Flush

So, as salt creep tends to impede performance of Venturi type and other injectors for skimmers, I devised an auto flush for my two twin Becket injection skimmers and the Venturi injector on the RK2 skimmer.

An RO/DI filled jug sits on a raised shelf (pic 1) that is auto fed by an RO/DI unit (pic 2) controlled by the Apex, to fill once per week:

pic 1
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pic 2
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A solenoid valve (pic 3) opens for a couple minutes three times per week, under Apex control, that allows RO/DI water to run via gravity into all three skimmer injector air intakes (pics 4, 5 and 6)

pic 3
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pic 4
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pic 5
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pic 6
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This is the RK2 Venturi injector:
IMG_1841_zps11c294d6.jpg


This is a shot of the twin Becket injectors:
IMG_1842_zps3f5260f4.jpg
 
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I just joined the F.R.A.G. group recently ! I am currently listening to the podcast you were on, that is horrible what happened with your Velvet outbreak... im going through the same thing myself, but on a Miniscule scale compared to yours. My only tank was a 17 gallon nano reef and i had to leave town to help my Father after a heart attack with complications, and something died in the tank when i was gone, the sitter didnt remove the dead thing and it wiped out the rest of the tank pretty much, no coral left, only thing left is 2 clownfish, 1 cleaner shrimp and a few hermits and snails, i had to put them in a QT while i rebuild and rethink my current tank. I regret not drilling my tank, now i will have the chance to do that. anyways, im blabbering here, thanks for the great info you have provided here, you are quite the reef builder ! maybe one day i will be lucky enough to go on a Frag tour and see your amazing tank !
 
I just joined the F.R.A.G. group recently ! I am currently listening to the podcast you were on, that is horrible what happened with your Velvet outbreak... im going through the same thing myself, but on a Miniscule scale compared to yours. My only tank was a 17 gallon nano reef and i had to leave town to help my Father after a heart attack with complications, and something died in the tank when i was gone, the sitter didnt remove the dead thing and it wiped out the rest of the tank pretty much, no coral left, only thing left is 2 clownfish, 1 cleaner shrimp and a few hermits and snails, i had to put them in a QT while i rebuild and rethink my current tank. I regret not drilling my tank, now i will have the chance to do that. anyways, im blabbering here, thanks for the great info you have provided here, you are quite the reef builder ! maybe one day i will be lucky enough to go on a Frag tour and see your amazing tank !

thanks funkehouse, sorry to hear about your Father, hope he's ok now
 
great thread!
Do you have any detailed explanation of how to do that auto feeder setup?
TOP NOTCH!:thumbsup:

many thanks MrineLfRiz, I outlined how I built the auto feeder on pg 1 of this thread, if you have any questions I'd be happy to address them here
 
Wow Elliot! I'm amazed at your ingenuity with your feeder! Could you post some pictures of your light rack, fish room as well as the cat walk behind the tank?

Is there anything that you would do differently?

I'm upgrading to an 800 gallon from a 400.
 
Wow Elliot! I'm amazed at your ingenuity with your feeder! Could you post some pictures of your light rack, fish room as well as the cat walk behind the tank?

Is there anything that you would do differently?

I'm upgrading to an 800 gallon from a 400.

thank you SERVO, not sure what I would do differently, that's a good question, have to think about that one :rolleyes:

here are some shots of the light rack, fish room and cat walk:

IMG_1850_zps48c33c1f.jpg


IMG_1849_zpse274c7c0.jpg


IMG_1847_zpscf6dc02e.jpg


IMG_1853_zps4b891f13.jpg


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IMG_1854_zps98dd4914.jpg
 
Ahhh the business end! Far too many reefers neglect a good QT system. With that size system its an absolute necessity! So by the looks of things, it seems you spent a couple thousand of hours trying to save a couple of million. Nicely done.

Did you plan a little work station for fragging?

Your light rack looks like that EZ tube product correct?

Did you automate your water changes as well?

I've been in this hobby since 1997, gone to countless number of MACNAS, seen a multitude of "famous" and TOTM tanks while just when I think I've seen it all, it's people like you who continue to inspire and influence what happens in the hobby. I bet someone tries to copy your refrigerator feeding design and create some product made in china to sell to us. Absolutely BRILLIANT!!!
 
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So, I thought I would share my coral/fish QT system. I use a submerged tray system for new coral arrivals. There are three submerged trays sitting in a 180g self contained tank, each with a small pump for flow. The 180 has it's own sump and skimmer and serves either as a coral or fish QT, currently houses an Achilles. There are also separate self contained 150g total volume tanks with dividers on the wall that share a separate sump and skimmer.

The three submerged trays are gravity fed from the DT continuously by a drip system, and they each separately overflow into the sink drain. Therefore, the temperature of the three trays are controlled by the 180g tank, however the chemistries are maintained from the DT. The lighting serves both, the trays and the tank they are submerged in.

This system has several advantages:

1. New arrivals are placed in separate trays to isolate any pests they may have.

2. The corals in the trays are easy to examine, dip, etc.

3. When a tray starts to grow algae, the coral are placed in a vacant tray and I add a half bottle of H202 to the tray, after a few days the tray is algae free, potential pests are oxidized, I simply gravity drain the tray and open the fill valve to refill it, takes just a few minutes.

4. Because the trays receive DT water there is no acclimation necessary when they are transferred to the display tank.

5. Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, ph, salinity, coral food, etc. are provided by the DT. This saves a lot of work and redundancy that would be required doing it all for a separate frag tank.

The ease of use, low maintenance and convenience of this system is far better than a "frag" tank that is just too much trouble, IMO

IMG_1856_zps662a0481.jpg


IMG_1863_zpsa27e4afd.jpg


IMG_1862_zps9c09065c.jpg
 
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Ahhh the business end! Far too many reefers neglect a good QT system. With that size system its an absolute necessity! So by the looks of things, it seems you spent a couple thousand of hours trying to save a couple of million. Nicely done. Did you go with an automatic gas powered generator in case of a power outage?

Did you plan a little work station for fragging?

Your light rack looks like that EZ tube product correct?

Did you automate your water changes as well?

I've been in this hobby since 1997, gone to countless number of MACNAS, seen a multitude of "famous" and TOTM tanks while just when I think I've seen it all, it's people like you who continue to inspire and influence what happens in the hobby. I bet someone tries to copy your refrigerator feeding design and create some product made in china to sell to us. Absolutely BRILLIANT!!!

thank you SERVO

I have a natural gas 15 KW generator that theoretically won't run out of gas, with a auto transfer switch that starts after a few seconds, it runs the entire system and an AC unit in the main house, it has saved my behind several times :lol:

I typically frag in the sink to keep things from flying across the room, lol

light rack is an aluminum kit I discovered from another reefer on this forum, glass reef, I think it is the EZ tube, and Stanley garage rails.

water changes are continous: the three skimmer's skimmate volume is replaced by fresh seawater from a 300g reservoir: there is a float switch in the sump that serves the skimmers, as the volume falls it turns on the reservoir pump as a "auto top off". Evaporative loss is replaced by a separate pump from an RO/DI 300g reservoir that is set at around 8-10g per day, and adjusted as needed, though needs very little adjusting probably due to the large system volume
 
So, I thought I would share my coral/fish QT system. I use a submerged tray system for new coral arrivals. There are three submerged trays sitting in a 180g self contained tank, each with a small pump for flow. The 180 has it's own sump and skimmer and serves either as a coral or fish QT, currently houses an Achilles. There are also separate self contained 150g total volume tanks with dividers on the wall that share a separate sump and skimmer.

The three submerged trays are gravity fed from the DT continuously by a drip system, and they each separately overflow into the sink drain. Therefore, the temperature of the three trays are controlled by the 180g tank, however the chemistries are maintained from the DT. The lighting serves both, the trays and the tank they are submerged in.

This system has several advantages:

1. New arrivals are placed in separate trays to isolate any pests they may have.

2. The coral in the trays are easy to examine, dip, etc.

3. When a tray starts to grow algae, the coral are placed in a vacant tray and I add a half bottle of H202 to the tray, after a few days the tray is algae free, potential pests are oxidized, I simply gravity drain the tray and open the fill valve to refill it, takes just a few minutes.

4. Because the trays receive DT water there is no acclimation necessary when they are transferred to the display tank.

5. Calcium, Alkalinity, Magnesium, ph, salinity, coral food, etc. are provided by the DT. This saves a lot of work and redundancy that would be required doing it all for a separate frag tank.

The ease of use, low maintenance and convenience of this system is far better for coral QT purposes than a "frag" tank, that is just too much trouble, IMO

IMG_1856_zps662a0481.jpg


IMG_1863_zpsa27e4afd.jpg


IMG_1862_zps9c09065c.jpg
 
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