emergency!!!!!!

Tom. I thought there was a second floor above you're family room? Which one is the family room? The front of the house with the pourch roof, or the one in the back of the house with the slider and second floor above?
 
Its where the slider is in the back right above the 46 Gal going right across the room to the slider. Its where the overhang is.
 
At this point, what you have done is all you can do.

Allow the water to collect in containers and dispose of them. As for patching the roof. Someone is going to have to get up there and throw down some plastic under the higher shingles and staple it in place.

As for the sheetrock. If you can work around the tank, there is no need to break it down. You are going to have to open up the ceiling where the leaking was and tear that down. The shhetrock will become water logged, but there may not be a need to tear down a huge section if it is capable of drying. If you do a good spackle job, there is no need to use sandpaper, you can use water and a rag. Finish may not be as good, but it will do. Then with the tank covered, paint it up.

Hang in there, the rain will pass soon. Many people know the feeling of panic that you are having, I for one with the rain coming through the roof. Everyone and everything is safe, things can be fixed.

Keep us posted.
 
We called the insurance co and they said they have had so many calls this morning about damage in the toms river area, they told me to try and get someone to put a tarp on the roof and just take some pictures of all the damage so I'm covered. A friend came over he was going to put some of that heavy plastic on the roof but he said it will just blow away, so that won't work, it's still dripping but not as bad as last night still a constant drip tho. The ceiling is still up for now, I hope it stay's up. I had one drip that was right in front of the tank but luckily that one has stopped. the place were the ceiling is buckled is still holding for now.
 
Hi Mott. Sorry to hear about your experience. I think I probably would have been more paniced than you were!

You need to get something over that bare spot in the roof. If you are afraid the plastic will blow away, edge the plastic with 1x2 stripping to keep it down. I wouldn't worry about nail holes or anything, as you will have to bare more of the roof to repair the plywood and shingling anyway.

The key is getting it covered as quickly as possible because you don't want a repeat episode if the rains or runoff kicks up again.
 
I am completely stressed out, I am limited to what I can do cause I am disabled, I am in so much pain right now it's not even funny, what my friend did was made some holes in the plastic for the string but as soon as he brought it out side it was like a giant flag and tore within a minute, he looked at the roof but none of the shingles are missing, it getting in where the roof meets the second story (overhang) from what he told me.
 
Well we just had a local contractor show up he basically said there's nothing he can do till monday, I asked him about putting a tarp and he said where it seems to be leaking that he can't there's no place to secure it.... I asked him about the ceiling he said it should be fine since I have the holes to drain the water, I then asked him about the tank if it will be ok when the repairs are done and he told me I would move it if I was you, they need to get to close to the tank to make repairs plus I have a popcorn ceiling and he said everything should come out of the room cause they use a spray and it could get in the tank and on the furniture, I'm soooo F***ing fed up

It looks like the tank has to go make offer for the whole setup!!!!!!!
 
Thank you for the offer, I am beond upset over this my wife has been crying since last night, I called 2 more contrators one is supposed to come out this afternoon and the other tomorrow morning, as of right now it seems the dripping has stopped, I assume cause the wind shifted. It will kill me to get rid of the tank but at this point I don't know what my other options are till I hear from the other contractors. right now I'm doing a lot of praying.
 
Tom

Hang tight. We'll get you through this. You have the frag tanks to put the corals and fish into for the time of the repairs. Whatever doesn't fit I'm sure some of us could hold for you, I know I am open to taking a few of your corals until you get things fixed.

If you need water or anything let me know, I have about 50 gallons of sw mixed up right now and can always make more. I don't use R/O water just so you are aware.

I know you and Faith have worked way too hard on this tank to give up now. I know have have been there before myself, but we are in too deep to back out.

Once you get a timeline for the repairs from the contractor let us know and we can make the arrangements for moving the tank out of the way.
 
how long can the tank go without lights? I have tons of SPS & LPS corals? and can I feed the fish without the lights on there is very little activity in the tank the powerheads are still running just no lights, I may put the lights back on the tank but I want to make sure the dripping stopped for a few hours before I do
 
I would hate to see you have to get rid of the tank. Is there any way you could tent the tank or opt for no popcorn spraying on the cieling? If they are spraying and are concerned about overspray, they must be taking precautions to tent the room and drape the floor, windows, etc. There should be some way you could tent the tank if it will only be for a few hours.

I've used PVC "framing" to tent areas of a room or woodworking projects before. Basically, you build an "A" frame on either side and connect it in the middle with a length of PVC. If you use double sided tape along the edges of the PVC frame, the plastic will stick long enough for the project to be completed. Weight down any drooping edges around the sides with blocks or full buckets.

You may be able to just drape the painters plastic over the tank and secure it to the bottom of the stand and sides of the glass as well. Double sided tape (again) might hold it to the bottom of the frame of the tank and stand long enough to get the spraying done.

Just tossing ideas out there for you.

I wish you luck!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8064233#post8064233 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mott768
how long can the tank go without lights? I have tons of SPS & LPS corals? and can I feed the fish without the lights on there is very little activity in the tank the powerheads are still running just no lights, I may put the lights back on the tank but I want to make sure the dripping stopped for a few hours before I do

You can also secure plastic to the cieling behind the tank, and to the floor in front of the tank, forming an angle, to direct any residual dripping away from the tank.

As long as the plastic is high enough off the lights, and open on the sides for ventilation, you should be able to run the lights for short periods of time. Just monitor your temp closely.
 
Your contractor is not a tank guy: tell him do the half of the room the tank isn't in, and have him frame a 2"x4" plastic-sheeted 'greenhouse' to contain the tank while the repairs go on---he won't do it for free, but hey, how much can it be to nail a few boards together. He'll tell you move it because he doesn't want the liability, but I think this can be talked out if you agree on measures like paying him [aside from the insurance company] to tent this off. I've had heavy repairs with a reeftank in the next room, no doors, so this can be done. During the last phase of work around the tank itself, and the blowing [why not just tell him just bed-and-tape with plaster texture, no blown ceiling in the room?] , if you shut down the pump and run a bubble line from either a pure oxy tank within the sheeted area or from an air pump in an adjacent room you can prevent anything from getting into the water, and you can run the lights and main pump during hours there's no work going on, when you can fling back the plastic and let it breathe. Most of what he's going to do is just dusty, not fumy, and when you do get down to the painting, you can close off for the few hours and open the windows to aid the drying [or put a space heater in the room if it's too humid.]
 
Wow, i hope you get threw this, dont just give up on the hobby because of a leak you did the best you could.

Best of luck.
 
thank you everyone, you guy's are great you gave me some good idea's especially with building a frame around the tank to protect it. I would have never thought of something like that, after he told me the tank would have to be moved I panicked and lost hope. Matt thank you so much for calming me down.

mfisher2112 & Sk8r
thank you for the idea with building a frame around the tank, fellow reefers to the rescue, I am feeling a little better now, still worried but not as bad, I'll talk to the other contractors about building the cage and seeing what other options there is to spraying the popcorn, I know they wont replace the whole ceiling and the insurance will probably only pay for the repair not a whole ceiling I don't know what or if any other way the put that stuff up, I'm sure another reason the one guy told me to move the tank was he doesn't want to be responsible if they brake the tank but with that cage idea I feel better about having it protected I'll probable do what Matt suggested and take the corals and fish out and store them in a temp tank and have a couple of people hold the things I can't fit until the job is done and leave the rock, sand and tank in place with the plastic covered cage.
 
Hey Tom,

I have a 55 gallon plastic barrel to hold water and rock if you need it. Like Matt I usually have 55 gallons of salt water on hand. I use RODI and IO salt. Even if we have to move the tank we can help you out!

I know it's frustrating when you can't do everything yourself, but we can help.

Bill
 
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