Emperor Angels
- Thread starter t5Nitro
- Start date
BigBadBlenny
New member
Pomacanthus imperator
Quick Stats: Emperor Angelfish
Family: Pomacanthidae
Range: Central, Western Pacific Oceans; Red Sea
Size: Up to 15 inches
Diet: Omnivore
Tank Set-up: Marine: Coral or rock, plants
Reef Compatible: With caution
Tank Conditions: 72-78ºF; sg 1.020-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Minimum Tank Capacity: 100 gallon
Light: High
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: No specific level
Care Level: Moderate
Reproduction: Egg Scatterer
The adult Emperor Angelfish, also known as the Imperator Angel, has a bold, blue body covered with bright yellow horizontal stripes culminating in a bright yellow to orange caudal fin. A striking blue-black mask covers the eyes and a similarly-colored vertical band extends from the pectoral fin two-thirds of the way up the body. This band is highlighted in a sapphire-blue in front, and bright yellow, caudally. The mouth is white. The juvenile is black with circular white and blue stripes starting at the tail. Although sought after for its colors, in an aquarium setting, the adult coloration may not be as striking or brilliant, and the color transition from juvenile to adult, may not be complete. Supplementing the diet with vitamins and color-enhancing foods may help.
The Emperor Anglefish requires a 100 gallon or larger tank with live rock for grazing and hiding. It will nip at stony and soft corals (sessile invertebrates) and clam mantles, but may be kept with small-polyped stony corals and somewhat noxious soft corals.
It should be fed a diet of Spirulina, marine algae, high-quality angelfish preparations, mysid or frozen shrimp, and other meaty items.
Quick Stats: Emperor Angelfish
Family: Pomacanthidae
Range: Central, Western Pacific Oceans; Red Sea
Size: Up to 15 inches
Diet: Omnivore
Tank Set-up: Marine: Coral or rock, plants
Reef Compatible: With caution
Tank Conditions: 72-78ºF; sg 1.020-1.025; pH 8.1-8.4
Minimum Tank Capacity: 100 gallon
Light: High
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: No specific level
Care Level: Moderate
Reproduction: Egg Scatterer
The adult Emperor Angelfish, also known as the Imperator Angel, has a bold, blue body covered with bright yellow horizontal stripes culminating in a bright yellow to orange caudal fin. A striking blue-black mask covers the eyes and a similarly-colored vertical band extends from the pectoral fin two-thirds of the way up the body. This band is highlighted in a sapphire-blue in front, and bright yellow, caudally. The mouth is white. The juvenile is black with circular white and blue stripes starting at the tail. Although sought after for its colors, in an aquarium setting, the adult coloration may not be as striking or brilliant, and the color transition from juvenile to adult, may not be complete. Supplementing the diet with vitamins and color-enhancing foods may help.
The Emperor Anglefish requires a 100 gallon or larger tank with live rock for grazing and hiding. It will nip at stony and soft corals (sessile invertebrates) and clam mantles, but may be kept with small-polyped stony corals and somewhat noxious soft corals.
It should be fed a diet of Spirulina, marine algae, high-quality angelfish preparations, mysid or frozen shrimp, and other meaty items.
triggerfish1976
New member
Juveniles will be less prone to nip most corals than adults and may be trained to keep nipping at a minimum as they grow but the open brain and clams are open game. Zoa's, xenia, and other fleshy LPS are also at HIGH risk.
t5Nitro
New member
So probably stay away from them for a reef with all types of coral? (LPS, SPS, soft, and clams)
What about putting in 1 more true percula clown?
I have a current one in there for a few months, if I would put both of them in the 125 at the same time, would they still fight or pair?
What about putting in 1 more true percula clown?
I have a current one in there for a few months, if I would put both of them in the 125 at the same time, would they still fight or pair?
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BigBadBlenny
New member
if you add them at the same time they should be just fine. try and get one thats either bigger or smaller than the one you have. not sure how to tell the difference but if you get a boy and girl they do spawn in captivity.
what else are you adding to the new tank? going from 46 gal to 120 opens many doors
what else are you adding to the new tank? going from 46 gal to 120 opens many doors
BigBadBlenny
New member
nice. check out www.reefvideos.com if you havent been there before. click on carl's tank its the picture with the hawk fish at the top left corner. he has a big achilles
triggerfish1976
New member
dwake,
Do tyou mean that your emperor has not turned into an adult in the three years that you have had it and still shows juveline colors?
Do tyou mean that your emperor has not turned into an adult in the three years that you have had it and still shows juveline colors?
triggerfish1976
New member
Achilles are tough fish to keep. They require high levels of oxygen and obscene amounts of water flow at laest 20-30 x water turnover per hour so I would recommend the yellow tang.
triggerfish1976
New member
I generally don't see PBT needing the same water conditions as I noted above for the Achilles but they are difficult to keep in their own right. They can get very agressive and are prone to ich outbreaks so if you have had problems with ich in the past and do not QT your fish then I would not recommend them.
I feel that all tangs are prone to ICH outbreaks. I have always had bad luck with tangs. Even after QT they still seem to end up getting sick and dying, never lost any other types of fish, so I just stay away from tangs now. I am pretty sure that they stress very easily and that makes them super susceptible to ICH.
mattsilvester
Team RC
There is a very useful survey of RC angelfish owners. See post 153 on the last page.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1661153&highlight=angel+spreadsheet&page=7
At a score of 75% (from a sample of 28 fish) it is about the same as a navarchus (76%) and beats the Regal by a full 5%. Getting them small, and keeping them in extended q-tine until they are eating like pigs on prepared foods will also improve the odds.
Another thing to consider is that we "train" our fishes feeding behaviour. If you place the fish into a barren display tank, then after a while start adding corals he may think you are feeding him, and may think he is "supposed" to eat the corals. So, you may have better offs if you add a small fish to a large display with an established collection of corals. This is of course risky as it will be hard to get him out if it goes wrong.
FYI - The fish in my avatar was bout at 2-3" (from memory) and grew to 8" or so. He would eat anything, and was 100% not reef safe. Then I tried adding corals after the fish.....
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1661153&highlight=angel+spreadsheet&page=7
At a score of 75% (from a sample of 28 fish) it is about the same as a navarchus (76%) and beats the Regal by a full 5%. Getting them small, and keeping them in extended q-tine until they are eating like pigs on prepared foods will also improve the odds.
Another thing to consider is that we "train" our fishes feeding behaviour. If you place the fish into a barren display tank, then after a while start adding corals he may think you are feeding him, and may think he is "supposed" to eat the corals. So, you may have better offs if you add a small fish to a large display with an established collection of corals. This is of course risky as it will be hard to get him out if it goes wrong.
FYI - The fish in my avatar was bout at 2-3" (from memory) and grew to 8" or so. He would eat anything, and was 100% not reef safe. Then I tried adding corals after the fish.....
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