Richard Francis
In Memoriam
woowoodengy said:
There is a guy in Bowling Green KY who makes round tanks that revolve. They have an automatic algae scrapper on them.
Episode II of "The Lazy Reefkeeper" series (The 2-minute water change)
- Thread starter ReefMeister2
- Start date
There is a guy in Bowling Green KY who makes round tanks that revolve. They have an automatic algae scrapper on them.
Karl K
New member
correct on the overflow protection wannabefarmer. I didn't want my house plumbing pressure (through the RO/DI unit) on the top-off float in the sump in case it failed and kept dumping fresh water in. I figure there is less chance of failure if I keep lower pressure on it. The float with full water pressure on it fills the RO/DI tank with the overflow in case anything bad happens. The line on the SW mix tank won't be large enough to handly a full on dump from the FW tank, but it will handle the occational "oops, I filled it too far" incidents.
Karl
Karl
KarlK,
If you can set the level in the salt water holding tank to be the right amount to be added to the sump after you do the "dump" from the sump, you can make it a 2 or 3 step process. If you turn off all return pumps and let the sump fill, then you can do the dump followed by the new salt water......one valve at a time
If you can set the level in the salt water holding tank to be the right amount to be added to the sump after you do the "dump" from the sump, you can make it a 2 or 3 step process. If you turn off all return pumps and let the sump fill, then you can do the dump followed by the new salt water......one valve at a time
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
headshrink said:
Duhohhh!, well, Ok...Master Lazy reluctantly accepts your proclaimation.
Princesses, androids, and perhaps little Ewoks...but I draw the line with them Wookiees! :hmm2:
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
Ah, nice schematic. What program is easiest to use? MS Word, Excel, or other? MS Visio is perfect for flow charts, but most people don't have it (not part of regular MS Office) Thanks for taking the time to draw this up show us.
As to your challenge....I see that you can dump from your main tank via the drain line (green) or you can dump from your sump via the return line (blue). I like the flexibility.
Question: In both cases, are you not limited to dumping the capacity of the pump compartment, or do you have a way to empty the other compartments of your sump as well? I am of course going on the assumption that you have a traditional tri-sectional sump layout with baffles....am I wrong?
I like your idea of tapping the RO/DI barrel for a gravity fed auto-topoff (like I've said before: GRAVITY is my favorite tool!) but this can only be implemented if the water barrel is higher than the sump (as it is in most cases anyway...just not mine) if not, you'll have to use either a feed pump or a solenoid system hooked directly to the RO/DI unit. I chose to go with a ReefRelief system (uses no reservoir at all) and it has worked flawlessly through multiple extended vacations.
Please show us some pics when you get the chance.
Keep them ideas coming guys
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
annnnnnnd, debump-ditty-bump-ditty-bump-bump-bump!
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
Just a bump for any new people who haven't read this thread yet...lotsa good posts/information here
bshumake
New member
Might I also add that you are the motivating factor behind my finally getting off my arse and becoming a premium member. There is just to much good advice to be had on these boards not to join. I'm not knocking anyone BTW. Personally I feel that the amount of Information gleamed,and Money saved thanks to DIY makes it the least I can do as a big "Thank You Everyone."
alphaferret
Pitcher Hill Reef Society
can i just say if ya got a 10 gal set up on your dryer- you prob. got a reefaddiction!!!!!
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
alphaferret said:
Hi, my name is Kevin and I'm a...(sob) I'm...(sob) I'm a....(sob)..a..Reefaholic! (Ahhgggbooohoohooo!!!)
But...what you DIDN'T see were two more Nano Reef tanks and a 46 gal. bowfront Freshwater tank in the house
:wildone: <--- "me"
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
bassman57
New member
very VERY cool :thumbsup:
So in step #1 you just open the skimmer section valve? If so, how that would only drain the skimmer section, correct?
Also, are you only able to do a water change the size of your sump, or can you do a bigger one by tank water out of the display tank?
So in step #1 you just open the skimmer section valve? If so, how that would only drain the skimmer section, correct?
Also, are you only able to do a water change the size of your sump, or can you do a bigger one by tank water out of the display tank?
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
bassman57 said:
Well, the pump compartment ball valve is already open (always is) so both left and center compartments dump at the same time. This dumps a total of 30 gallons for the water change, which is just right for my 145 gallon system. If I wanted to, I can simply open the right ball valve too and dump the entire contents of the sump, barring the few gallons that are stuck between the baffles.
I can drain about 10 gallons from my display tank before the water reaches the anti-siphon holes drilled into my return ports. That makes a total of 65 gallons out of my 145 gallon system (90 gallon display + 55 gallon sump.) I can't forsee ever needing to change that much water, but I still have my trusty Python vacuum system if just such an occurance happened one day.
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
bassman57 said:
That's about how much water drains back threw the return lines when I shut the pumps down (vacuum effect). It used to be even more water than that, but I recently drilled a small hole on the underside of each return nozzle so that it breaks the siphon as soon as the water level drops enough to reach the hole and allow air to enter. It's a perfect solution to prevent your sump from overflowing.
It isn't an issue in my case since any overflow water is automatically diverted and drained into my garage sink. (The enclosure for my sump was built like a "shower stall"...The entire shelf is water-proofed and then I built a drain in the right front corner of the shelf for water to drain away below to the sink) But I still want to prevent water loss if that were to happen in a power loss....then the pumps would kick on later with a dangerously lower water level.
ReefMeister2
Premium Member
bassman57 said:
They are both QuietOne 6000s, with a third QuietOne connected to my mixing barrel as well. (for transfering water to the sump during water changes) In the event a pump needs servicing, I can change it out in seconds since all three pumps are configured with identicle union fittings attached to the inputs and outputs.
In other words, say pump #1 goes out on my sump...I simply pull #3 from my barrel and replace it onto the sump until I can get #1 repaired. I love redundancy!
