Thanks for the pix and info. So if you guys were to set it up, exactly how would you go about setting up the powerheads, what GPH, what angles would you set them at, etc. I could possibly get a cheap controller, but I'd like to try and keep the budget down. What about a few cheap timers from Walmart, the kind for like $4 that you can set every half hour, so I could do 30 minute alternating currents. Would it be worth it?
Equipment For A 75g SPS
- Thread starter TMF89
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acrohead500ppm
New member
creating the right flow for sps with non controllable pumps is kinda of an art.
I recommend using one large propeller pump and one slightly smaller, have each at back corners of the tank both pointing toward eachother at a 45 deg angle in correlation of the back glass, tilted slightly upward towards the surface of the water.
the pumps will fight eachother giving you a good wash of random flow in the top half of the tank, tilting them slightly upwards towards the water surface will add more random flow as the water surface acts like a wall with random give.
hope this helps
I recommend using one large propeller pump and one slightly smaller, have each at back corners of the tank both pointing toward eachother at a 45 deg angle in correlation of the back glass, tilted slightly upward towards the surface of the water.
the pumps will fight eachother giving you a good wash of random flow in the top half of the tank, tilting them slightly upwards towards the water surface will add more random flow as the water surface acts like a wall with random give.
hope this helps
Well I'm considering investing in a cheap controller. Any standard RKL or Aquatroller Mini (forgot what their entry level is) would be able to do it right? Right now there's one in the F/S forum with a temp probe and a DC-8. The probe is pretty self explanatory, and I'm assuming the DC-8 is Direct Current-8? For pumps, powerheads, lights, and heaters? Would a entry-level controller be able to do all that?
Also what specific powerheads would you use GPH-wise? I'll probably just go with Koralia, I definitely can't afford MPs lol.
Also what specific powerheads would you use GPH-wise? I'll probably just go with Koralia, I definitely can't afford MPs lol.
acrohead500ppm
New member
I would get some maxi mods by sureflow and do the DIY anti reverse shaft sheath, the Hydor koralias will not like being on a controller, after awhile they will chatter, go in reverse, or just kick the bucket.
What do you have your vortechs set at? Also what do you dose with? Do you find the dual reactor creates any issues with setting ideal flow rates for the GFO and carbon respectively?
Also guys could you get me some shots of your lighting systems? I really don't want a real blue tank, I'd prefer almost white with a tint of blue. Suggestions?
Also guys could you get me some shots of your lighting systems? I really don't want a real blue tank, I'd prefer almost white with a tint of blue. Suggestions?
nikonosis
New member
I have my 2 mp10s at 100% reefcrest and my mp40 at 50% reefcrest sync. I have zero problems with the dual reactor. I dose with a marine magic doser from ebay, http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1938900&highlight=marine+magic
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nikonosis
New member
maxijets come with sureflow mods these days... http://www.marinedepot.com/Marinela...rineland_Instant_Ocean-AS90509-FIPHFF-vi.html
The sureflow does a little more flow or a lot if you use the large propeller.
nikonosis
New member
I use vortechs and just have them attached to the back wall. I use a maxijet 1200 for flow through my dual reactor with a ball valve to control it.
nikonosis
New member
MaxSpect G2-160 LED
karsseboom
New member
i would say 2x150 mh is not enought light for an sps tank. Your corals will brown out under those lights. More light the better but atleast 2x250 or if you can go 400w with 20k bulbs. For flo, you cant just throw a bunch of powerheads in the tank. the flow need to be random and i would look into vortech or tunze, the single best thing i did for my corals was buying vortech pumps...
Karsseboom, I really have to consider budget though, while I'm willing to invest enough to keep a successful tank, I do have to keep the college budget in mind lol. In all honesty I don't think I could do more than two MP10s, and that would only be if I got a good deal on them. I plan on using a controller for flow, so I just need reliable powerheads.
As far as lighting goes would you recommend two 400ws or just one, and what do you mean with 20k bulbs?
Howso? Electrical bill-wise? Honestly that's the only area where I can slack a little, my parents pay my housing lol. Or are there other advantages that make them worthwhile?
I plan on just getting whatever happens to be in the For Sale forum at the time for the right price lol, but thanks for the recommendation. As for your tank, could you tell me a little more about the lighting and powerhead set-up? Thanks!
karsseboom
New member
You can get tunze for cheap used off ebay? Most people use leds to save electric bill, some say they produce a lot of heat but mine never change my water temp and 80% of people who use mh dont have problems with heat. They just buy them and say things to justify there purchase, but all in all mh are the most proven way to light an sps tank i dont care what anyone says. If you use a controller you might be okay for a bit but sps really need good random flow.
phenom5
Member
Vortechs are the way to go, but not if you're on a tight budget. I'm not sure 2 mp10s would be enough flow for a 75. There are plenty of options out there. If I were on a tight budget, I probably go with a couple of Tunze Nano Streams and mod them. A pair of 6025's modded will easily put you in the 30x turnover rate. Not sure how they would do on a controller, but they'll put out a ton of flow for cheap, and they're Tunze.
20K (it's actually 20,000K, but...) is the temp (in Kelvin) of the bulb. 20,000 is more towards the blue spectrum, 10,000 being closer to white. FWIW, I'd go with Radiums.
400Ws would work, but IMO not needed. 2x250w would work just fine on a 75. setting up 2x400 won't cost you much more than 2x250, but it'll cost a good bit more to run, and heat can be a real issue with 400s. If you're setting up a standard 75, 1x400 is going to be sitting directly over your center brace. If your tank is rimless, or eurobraced, with the right reflector I think you could get away with just one 400.
LEDs generally cost less to run, produce less heat, and have cool features (which may or may not be of any use...sunrise/ sunset, cloudy days, etc).
MH run hot, and are costly to run. They do produce a really nice look though.
T5's are kind of in the middle of those two. Not as costly to run, and generally don't heat the tank as much. The don't cost as much to purchase as LEDs, but usually cost a little bit more than MH.
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