Eric's "famous" coral food recipe

[EricHugo]

There's no formula really...it is fed according to the tank. Bascially, the way I explain it to people, eyedoc, is that our tanks are capable of receiving a lt of food. Most people that start feeding a lot quit about a week later because they start to see algae or cyano or nitrates.

It takes a while for tanks to catch up to new input levels. I'd start with a tablespoon, maybe at night, every other night. Wait a month at that level. Then, double it - do it every night....wait a month. Double it, etc. Eventually you'll reach a point where the tank actually does start to accumulate nutrients....back off to the previous level. As corals and other filter feeders grow, though, you'll have that many more mouths to feed. If you see algae, either get more grazers or wait a while until all the populations ctach up (that's why the month wait between increases) and don't panic a week or two into the new routine. Its a cycle, and it takes time.

 

[eyedoc]

Do you just put the tablespoon in and let the current mix it around?
Do you target feed it?
Thanks

 

[michaelg]

just dump it in. Remember- you should freeze the initial batch- then chop off what you need with a knife and thaw it in a small amount of tank water. I put it into the current to get good dispersal through out the water column.

 

[eyedoc]

I just tried target feeding.
What a pain!
It sure would be much easier to just throw it in.

Do you ever try to target feed?
Theoretically this should put less bioload in the tank.

 

[EdKruzel]

In general just putting it in the current is the way to go (IMO) however if you keep certain species that do not rely on or have the ability of photosynthesis, then target feeding will ensure survivability.

If a hobbyists sets their current properly throughout the system then food particles should reach everything.

Take care,
Ed

 

[pogie]

I have a filter sock on the PVC going into the sump to trap debris. Will this trap most of the particles? Should I turn of my return pump for awhile after feeding? I have been target feeding but it is becoming onerous and would like to use the dump and go method but am worried all the food will end up in the filter sock.

 

[EricHugo]

I think a great deal of it will end up in the filter sock. Ad, a lot of the stuff you are collecting in the filter sock is perfectly good food, too - detritus. BTW, 2 points for you. Onerous is a good one.

 

[eyedoc]

What do you think about adding the food mixture to the sump so the pump will distribute it to the tank with the rest of the water?

 

[EricHugo]

Hopefully there is enough circulation in any tank to distribute food rapidly in any event.

 

[jaden1]

Hi Eric,
CAn this food be helpful to Gorgonians. Currently trying to get a diodogorgia to feed. Have had lots of success feeding non predatory gorgonians, but this one is proving to be a bit more difficult. It won't extend its polyps and is slowly receeding. Currently trying to feed mix of cyclops eze mixed with brine and vibra grow. Any suggestion would be great. Thanks

 

[EricHugo]

Both those are too large for Diodogorgia. There are componennts in my mix that would likely feed Diodogorgia, but it is unlikely to provide enough to sustain this coral. You ca search the forum for more infomration on this species, and a few reports of others of claimed success.

 

[jaden1]

Thank you and I will search for that info. And thank you for replying so soon. The garf website suggested this method which seems a little odd to me. What's your view.
1. soak flake food in seachem reef builder for 1-2 hrs.
2.puree in blender.
3 Allow particles to fall from suspension and use these to feed diodogorgia.

Seems to me they would likely burn the polyps they intend to feed.
Am reserving this as the finla step. Can't hold out much longer though it is starting to wane a bit.
Thanks for your help and your articles over the years. Truly a fan of many years.

 

[EricHugo]

I think the flake food soaked in Selcon and put in a blender is a much better idea.

 

[GARFVolunteer]

1. soak flake food in seachem reef builder for 1-2 hrs.
2.puree in blender.
3 Allow particles to fall from suspension and use these to feed diodogorgia.

jaden1,

The GARF website says to soak the flake food in SeaChem Reef Plus not Reef Builder...

 

[nancysnuwave]

I think the flake food soaked in Selcon and put in a blender is a much better idea.

Any ideas on the similarities of ReefPlus (or whatever) and Selcon?

 

[EricHugo]

none...what's in ReefPlus? I thought it was a trace element product.

 

[michaelg]

from some web site....
Seems like it is both a trace suppliment and a vitamin suppliment. Personally I would stick with selcon of a mix of selcon with vitachem.

_Reef Plusâ„¢ is a full spectrum supplement of trace components such as iodide, bromide, molybdenum, iron, manganese, cobalt, potassium, inositol, choline; important vitamins such as C and B12; and beneficial amino acids, such as cysteine, proline, glycine, alanine, and lysine. It may be used as a food supplement. It complements Reef Completeâ„¢ and Reef Calciumâ„¢. It is a concentrated product: each 500 mL treats 8,000 L (2,000 gallons). This is perfect for keeping all types of corals._ It is highly recommended for keeping soft corals like Xenia.

 

[Harpo]

I was looking through the new AES catalogue that came today and found they have really excellent plankton nets available.

Since I fish frequently off the northern calif. coast it got me thinking--

1) would northern pacific plankton make a good food source for our tropical corals?

2) If so would it still be nutritious if frozen (dead)?

3) If yes to the above what micron size netting would be appropriate for the best sized plankton for our purposes?

Thank you, Mark

 

[EricHugo]

1. yes
2. yes
3. I'd use the 5-100 micron fraction

 

[jaden1]

Thank you all. Yes reef plus sounds better. Thank you GARF volunteer.