1. shortcuts lead bad places. Things reproduce and process at a rate governed by biology---and bacteria can only grow and divide so fast, no faster. Suitable warmth helps, but it cannot accelerate beyond healthy rates.
2. tank size and shape governs aggression.
3. too much warmth or pollution lowers the ability of water to carry oxygen. If your tank gets too hot, your critters can suffocate. Too little heat slows chemical processes, incuding life processes like cell growth and digestion. Ideal tank temp for marine rides around 78-80, giving you wiggle room for survival if something unexpected happens.
4. water quality is critical, far beyond just testing ammonia/nitrate. Once your tank is cycled, before you add any living thing, your salinity should ride about 1.024 or 1.025, your ALkalinity should be at 7.9 to 8.3 on the DKH scale, and that is critical!!!!!!!!!!!! Two others to track are calcium (good at 420) and magnesium (about 1350). Do not add any life until you have not only checked these out but maintained them for a week.
5. recently fishes have come in with parasites that can wipe out your population and give you a 72 day cooldown with no fish. Quarantines using tank transfer (see the sticky) are way shorter, eh??
6. be sure whether the coral you're buying is a stony or a softie. They live under different conditions and different lighting. AND dip your corals in a recommended pest-eliminator: for softies, you should also quarantine them about a week in case eggs hatch.
7. having an autotopoff running smoothly is something to do early, rather than later, when you have to leave your tank and have never used one. It's also nicer to the fish and corals, topping off fresh water by the teaspoon rather than the bucket, as needed. See that note on 'stability'
8. buy a light kit adequate for stony corals if there is any hint you will EVER go that direction---having to rebuy equipment is a pita.
9. yes, a sump is a real good idea. You can site it in an adacent piece of furniture if you have to. And having a skimmer is a good idea, but you don't need a killer skimmer unless you're doing the fussiest of stony coral. A good one is usually enough. Softies can get by without, but it really helps with a number of things including fighting bacterial growth, cyano, and nitrates.
10. don't believe in any miracle potions or miracle cures for ich, and never, ever, ever put anything into your tank without checking out the product experiences on RC. Within a couple of hours you can get advice on applicability and effectiveness and alternatives that can save your tank.
11. Never chase a vision of a completed tank without knowing the life requirements of the critters---be alert to photoshopping: and remember the Finding Nemo tank was intended as a horrible example, not a model to follow.
The biggest single issue between a novice and success is usually water quality: run those tests, use ro/di even for initial fill, and keep your nitrates nearly unreadable. Fish may tolerate a reading in the 50's better than corals will, but tolerate is the word. They appreciate clean water.
2. tank size and shape governs aggression.
3. too much warmth or pollution lowers the ability of water to carry oxygen. If your tank gets too hot, your critters can suffocate. Too little heat slows chemical processes, incuding life processes like cell growth and digestion. Ideal tank temp for marine rides around 78-80, giving you wiggle room for survival if something unexpected happens.
4. water quality is critical, far beyond just testing ammonia/nitrate. Once your tank is cycled, before you add any living thing, your salinity should ride about 1.024 or 1.025, your ALkalinity should be at 7.9 to 8.3 on the DKH scale, and that is critical!!!!!!!!!!!! Two others to track are calcium (good at 420) and magnesium (about 1350). Do not add any life until you have not only checked these out but maintained them for a week.
5. recently fishes have come in with parasites that can wipe out your population and give you a 72 day cooldown with no fish. Quarantines using tank transfer (see the sticky) are way shorter, eh??
6. be sure whether the coral you're buying is a stony or a softie. They live under different conditions and different lighting. AND dip your corals in a recommended pest-eliminator: for softies, you should also quarantine them about a week in case eggs hatch.
7. having an autotopoff running smoothly is something to do early, rather than later, when you have to leave your tank and have never used one. It's also nicer to the fish and corals, topping off fresh water by the teaspoon rather than the bucket, as needed. See that note on 'stability'
8. buy a light kit adequate for stony corals if there is any hint you will EVER go that direction---having to rebuy equipment is a pita.
9. yes, a sump is a real good idea. You can site it in an adacent piece of furniture if you have to. And having a skimmer is a good idea, but you don't need a killer skimmer unless you're doing the fussiest of stony coral. A good one is usually enough. Softies can get by without, but it really helps with a number of things including fighting bacterial growth, cyano, and nitrates.
10. don't believe in any miracle potions or miracle cures for ich, and never, ever, ever put anything into your tank without checking out the product experiences on RC. Within a couple of hours you can get advice on applicability and effectiveness and alternatives that can save your tank.
11. Never chase a vision of a completed tank without knowing the life requirements of the critters---be alert to photoshopping: and remember the Finding Nemo tank was intended as a horrible example, not a model to follow.
The biggest single issue between a novice and success is usually water quality: run those tests, use ro/di even for initial fill, and keep your nitrates nearly unreadable. Fish may tolerate a reading in the 50's better than corals will, but tolerate is the word. They appreciate clean water.
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