Essentials for Spectacular Reef Tank

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12555786#post12555786 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hampton
I use home-made RO/DI water. It's up to about 28 ppm. It's usually zero. It hasn't been that long since I replaced the filters. Is this a glaring error?

What brand of salt do you use? I've used Reef Crystals up to now, but plan on switching brands ASAP. Is Red Sea coral salt good stuff?

whats your starting tap water TDS???

If I were you, I'd swap out both the RO membrane and the DI resins, since it sounds like both poor RO rejection rate as well as exhausted DI. I'm using a spectrapure 90gpd, and so far the output of my RO is 0ppm from ~130ppm, so my DI isn't really being taxed yet (hopefully lasts a long time).

depending on whats in your tap water, topping off with 28ppm certainly won't help your nutrient problems.


FWIW, i'm using reef crystals, but switching over to Coralife salt.
 
WRT the phosphates issue, its been said before but what the heck,

since you are getting greenery outbreaks, this greenery will use up the available phosphates very quickly, so just because its not in the water column doesn't mean its not in the system. plucking the algae removes phosphates, but some will die off and release it back, fueling new growth. food also adds phosphates, and its possible that your 28ppm "RODI" water is making it worse.

but overall I think what Gary Majchrzak said is the most important key :)
 
I measured my RO/DI output today. 16 PPM (error in memory when typing 28ppm above). I start at about 170 ppm (also from memory) from the tap. I use about 15 - 20 gallons per week, and changed my filters out in my water filtration system 7 months ago. That's 5 - 600 gallons since new.

I agree completely that the growth is using up the phosphate, then dumping it back with death. My glass is clean, by the way. I get a light dusting once a week or less. The growth is on the bottom and backs of the live rock - does this indicate anything? At least it's steering me away from needing new lights. It points to flow, but I think I have good flow. I'm thinking of adding a couple of power heads down low.

My chaeto is really dark green and kind of matted together. I take out a fairly good chunk every couple of weeks. I'm going to be really aggressive about keeping the chaeto turned, thinned out, and well shaken to keep debris from resting on it. I think that if I hit all of the areas known to produce phosphates really hard for a couple of weeks, I can get the system back to normal.

I think that one of my main problems is that once I get things cleaned up really well, I expect it to maintain itself. I need to stay aggressive at keeping it cleaned out.

Do you guys turkey baste frequently? How do you extract the waste when you do? Do you need to clean your rocks?
 
I just went to the Air, Water, Ice website and re-read the instructions (Typhoon III). I have forgotton to rinse the membrane after not filtering for 2 or 3 days. I'll go home and run that procedure and then make another batch and test it. This could be an issue.
 
good catch. when i dont flush mine for 10 minutes or so after some inactivity, the RO membrane will start to creep upwards of 10ppm. i have an inline 2stage TDS meter so its easy to see the benefit of flushing the membrane.

however, you said it was an RODI. even without flusing, your DI resin should be able to purify your 16ppm water down to 0 with no problem. So I'd both flush the RO and replace the DI.
 
wouldnt necessarily call mh a necessity...

id say the biggest thing is having appropriate lighting and flow for the biotope you are trying to emulate. also an appropriate means of export for nutrients... then research before u buy anything. thats my 2cents.
 
Back
Top