Experienced hobbyists---what is the ONE (or 2) things you would tell newbies...?

Buy cheap, buy twice!,


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Another inevitable difference of opinion. Respectfully.

No. Certainly not for all equipment. Dosers, return pumps, controllers, etc. should not be skimped on. Powerheads, wave makers, skimmers, lights sure you can go pretty affordable to down right cheap.
 
For me: I moved at least once a year ever since I had a tank, from 2007 til 2015. Would not do it again until I was settled as I am now.

2. Don't rush things.


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True.



False. Search on Triton and Zeovit methods first two that come to mind (others of course).

Correct me if I'm wrong, but even both of those methods still require water changes(I only glanced over the triton method, and have only read a small bit about the Zeo method). Not as much as we preach around here, but they still require some sort of WC schedule.

Let me know when a mass amount of hobbyists use these methods with no water changes and their tanks are thriving in 10 to 20 years. Only then can you say they actually work, since the measurement of success or failure in this hobby is a long term healthy thriving tank.

As far as the original question......

Nothing happens fast in this hobby.
Research everything first before you buy.
Dilution is the solution to pollution.
 
For me, it would be to take it nice and slow to allow the tank's environment to mature. Also, to do as much research on the corals and fish you want to keep to ensure the tank's environment can meet their needs.
 
My advice would be read the stickies. A large portion of the posts you see asking for help or advice can be answered in the stickies. There is a lot of good info in there to help get you up and running, you just have to put in the effort to read them.
 
Correct me if I'm wrong, but even both of those methods still require water changes(I only glanced over the triton method, and have only read a small bit about the Zeo method). Not as much as we preach around here, but they still require some sort of WC schedule.

Triton doesn't. It is a lab analysis of "your" water. They give you a report, you know what the current state of the water is, then you add to get it back to natural sea water. A key goal of that method is the elimination of water changes. DSR is another additive based method that doesn't require water changes and supplemental based. Zeovit I believe requires 10% or so of a water change.

Doesn't mean the method is for everyone - by no means am I saying that. But to say water changes are required isn't really true anymore because there are methods now that prevent or limit that. Which is a good thing depending on what state you live in (California drought for example).
 
And thank you, people, for a CIVILIZED discussion of two methods in a detail and mode useful for the forum. You provide names, reasons, such that people can look them up, all good. Let's say there are two schools of thought on water changes, and your particular situation may affect your choice.

On to other topics, now. What else would you tell a newbie? My next piece of advice is---don't mix methods. If you're picking a 'system' of tank maintenance, research it and don't do it this week and decide on something else next week. Figure out what you need to do, develop a schedule on which you do it (Saturday, say, for tank testing and maintenance) and keep records, so you can see in black and white how it's trending.

Don't play catch-up after the numbers have exited the 'good zone' into the 'bad'. "DOSE INTO TRENDS"---ie, if you're going to correct a situation (depending on that logbook of test numbers you've been keeping [right? every week?] dose correctively before it crosses the line into 'bad.' Eg, if your alkalinity is 8.0 and it's been trending down, you need to fix that before it exits the safe zone: 7.9-9.0. You add buffer, you fix it before your critters have to breathe water that's too acidic. The log book tells you the DIRECTION things are headed, and how close you are to the limit. For your information, there's a 'cycling's not the end of it' thread up there that gives you some target parameters.
 
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When correcting parameters with dosing always start with 1/2 the recommended amount then retest parameters to see where you are. Exact water volume can be hard to estimate.

Same with medication and ant "wonder" products. Start with 1/2 the recommended dose then wait 24 hrs to look for ill effects, toxicity... before continuing treatment.
 
Triton doesn't. It is a lab analysis of "your" water. They give you a report, you know what the current state of the water is, then you add to get it back to natural sea water. A key goal of that method is the elimination of water changes. DSR is another additive based method that doesn't require water changes and supplemental based. Zeovit I believe requires 10% or so of a water change.

Doesn't mean the method is for everyone - by no means am I saying that. But to say water changes are required isn't really true anymore because there are methods now that prevent or limit that. Which is a good thing depending on what state you live in (California drought for example).

My 2 items were intended for new hobbyists (which is what I thought this thread was about), and when you are starting out (just getting your arm wet) water changes are one of the simplest and most effective ways to help keep your tank healthy, until you get a handle on things, as your knowledge enhances and experience builds branching into other methods is not discouraged. but to start off a noob with even more challenges faced by additional steps and methodology etc could make it overwhelming. I don't disagree that there are other methods available but I do stand by that when your starting out a water change with a high quality salt mix done properly is the single simplest way to keep water quality up.

My 75 mixed reef was never dosed with anything at 12 years old it was a pretty tank. maintained with a DSB and waterchanges, macro algae sump, and a protien skimmer. Are there other ways to go about it? of course there are, tons in fact, but I have found after a couple weeks in this hobby you can make it as complicated or as simple as you would like to, generally speaking.
 

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Patience.
Don't chase numbers.
Water changes (only way to get rid of refractory DOC and minimize heterotrophic bacteria levels).
 
I'm not a pro, but I would recommend to follow the experience levels many sites have on coral and fish care. If it says experienced, and you're not, don't get it yet.
 
When it comes to this hobby don't think of it as keeping coral or fish, but think of it as a hobby of keeping saltwater very clean. The livestock growing is a byproduct.
 
I am by no means "experienced", but what I have learned is that you will spend at least twice as much as you expect. Make sure you can afford it before you start. Don't start with a specific dollar amount in mind. Instead, start with the set up you want and then figure out how much it will cost and then multiply that by 2. Starting a system out of your price range leads to neglect and eventually tear downs.
 
And prioritize equipment over specimens for your startup. Specimens can die on you. The right equipment will prevent your pretty specimens dying. Your friendly experienced reefers may argue over which equipment IS best, but at least can tell you some good brands. 'Used' is ok for skimmers and sumps and tanks, even for good-brand pumps; but NEVER buy a used heater, and go for the good brands: a bad heater is dangerous to your house, let alone your tank.

Things you should ask many questions about: lights, test kits. Don't hop on the first recommendation: know what you need for what you want to keep.

Things you probably don't need: chiller---try a fan, first; calcium reactor---later; things you can get by without: doser, controller, ---if you can afford it, great; things you should ask before using: filters of any kind but filter socks; bioballs...fish-only, maybe, but not a reef. Reefs pretty well need a sump and skimmer once you pass 30 gallons, and smaller than that, they're still a good idea.
 
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I am also by no means experienced, but my biggest things are, get 2 smaller heaters instead of one big one for redundancy, and also for the 1000th time, don't rush, add things slowly, otherwise you'll set your self up for failure
 
Nothing comes fast.

Find a local tank you like and try to learn from them. There is no miracle in a bottle formula

Corey
 
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