Extension cable for Osmolator Pump

[jsousa]

I just got a 3155 Osmolator for use on my new 400 gallon tank and I have an issue which I did not expect.

My fresh water reservoir is about 25 feet from my main display(and hence the Osmolator control unit). That reservoir is a 160 gallon Ace Roto Mold which stands about 6 feet tall. I was planning on dropping the Osmolator pump into that reservoir to draw water from. Little did I know the pump only has a 4 or 5 foot cable.

Does Tunze sell an Osmolator pump with a 10 foot or even 25 foot cable so I can get this setup to work? Is there a way to open up the pump to rewire it with 25 foot of cable? That would be amazing.

Thanks a bunch.
John

 

[Macca_75]

I'm not sure of the official answer but that's a lot of head height for such a small pump. Maybe attaching the Switched socket (3150.110) and a small pump or RO valve (8555.200) if you have head height pressure would work better?

 

[jsousa]

Thanks for the quick reply. I did not realize there was such a thing as the switched socket. Does the socket work for US? It looks like A European connector.

 

[rvitko]

I attach my reply to your email-

John,

You can extend the wire with speaker wire and you can buy the tubing in 30 ft rolls. I have a couple of big concerns with your intended install. With a 6ft reservoir, to avoid a siphon the top off hose will have to terminate 6ft above the ground, this is likely not practical, if it were to terminate at 5ft off the ground, one foot of water would be able to siphon after the pump turned off and the results could be disastrous. The reservoir volume is a 4th and final safety, we generally would try to limit this to just what is needed for up to a 2 week vacation and not enough to irreversibly damage our tank if all other safeties failed.

Roger

As Macca_75 said their are other options, the switched socket is intended for applications where a larger pump is needed, the controller stops the pump after 10 minutes, the siphon concern would still apply unless the pump used was a peristaltic pump which is not practical as the volume is too low. A 400 may indeed require a larger pump, it is at the upper limit of what the stock pump can do depending on evaporation rate. It does have european (Schuko) plugs, it is a stock project box, we do include Euro to US plug adapters for the US and the board inside is configured for 115V/60Hz. The solenoid is another option, however I would always back up a solenoid with additional safeties as solenoids will eventually fail, while the controller may be signaling it to shut off, debris or wear could result in the solenoid not closing fully. Bulk Reef Supply had an excellent video on safely installing the solenoid and showing back up shut off options.

 

[jsousa]

Thanks for the help guys. I think I'm going to order the Switched Socket and Solenoid and a backup float switch for my Apex to shut off power to the Osmolator, just in case. You got me nervous.

 

[rvitko]

In general it would be either or, the solenoid does not need the socket and you only be able to use one. The float switch on the Apex would not address the solenoid issue, the Osmolator has a lot of safety built in, if the optic sensor fails, the float can stop it, if that fails the 10 minute timer will stop it. What we are concerned with is a solenoid that is jammed and cannot close, a mechanical float valve or some sort of secondary valve that would close if the solenoid does not is what is needed, the Apex would not be able to close the solenoid if it was stuck just as the Osmolator would not. In the case of a pump system we are concerned with siphons and the same would apply, nothing can stop a siphon except careful plumbing and making sure that the top off line terminates or has an air gap above the reservoir water level.

 

[jsousa]

I think that's it Roger. You just hit the nail on the head. I can create a hole in the tube at the water line to break the siphon. Do you think that would work well?

 

[rvitko]

The best solution seems to be running the factory hose to the top of a pipe that acts as a gutter into the sump or tank. Something like 1/2" CPVC, the hose is then installed into a cap at the top of the gutter that is drilled so the hose fits tight and then another hole is drilled beside it as a vent. This will avoid any water spritzing out and break any siphon, just use a large enough vent hole that it is not easily clogged by dust, etc.