Fairy wrasse
- Thread starter rs30
- Start date
Shoryureppa
New member
Any Would be good. I have a harem of flame wrasses in my 120.
a.browning
New member
Most of the fairies are very hardy, relatively peaceful fish. I have a Lubbock's, Adornatus, Flavidorsalis and Orange Back fairy in my tank. I get my fish from the LFS and Live Aquaria.
evolved
Wrasse Nut
The three big requirements for keeping wrasses, which I cannot stress enough, are:
• Must be kept with appropriate tankmates. Basically, no “aggressive” fish. You need to have a relatively peaceful tank in order for it to be suitable for reef safe wrasses.
• They need to be feed several times per day. If the thought of supplying small amounts of food (nutrients) to your tank several times per day makes you cringe, look elsewhere. Wrasses are very active fish, and need a variety of meaty foods often in their diet to keep them healthy.
• Must be kept IN A COVERED TANK. This is fundamentally essential. All wrasses are jumpers. They are a deep water fish and are not instinctually used to the surface being so near to them. Keep them in an uncovered tank, or one with any gaps, and it is simply a matter of time before they go carpet surfing. On that note, a 5/8” wrasse will fit though a 5/8” hole. Don’t leave any opportunities for escape. Trust me.
• Must be kept with appropriate tankmates. Basically, no “aggressive” fish. You need to have a relatively peaceful tank in order for it to be suitable for reef safe wrasses.
• They need to be feed several times per day. If the thought of supplying small amounts of food (nutrients) to your tank several times per day makes you cringe, look elsewhere. Wrasses are very active fish, and need a variety of meaty foods often in their diet to keep them healthy.
• Must be kept IN A COVERED TANK. This is fundamentally essential. All wrasses are jumpers. They are a deep water fish and are not instinctually used to the surface being so near to them. Keep them in an uncovered tank, or one with any gaps, and it is simply a matter of time before they go carpet surfing. On that note, a 5/8” wrasse will fit though a 5/8” hole. Don’t leave any opportunities for escape. Trust me.
aleggett321
New member
I only feed my fish once per day, usually mysis soaked in selcon and garlic, or occasionally pellets. I have a melanarus wrasse and a red velvet fairy wrasse. Both are fat and healthy. I do leave nori on a rock sometimes and they will pick at that. Definitely a MUST to cover the tank.
evolved
Wrasse Nut
I'd say a toby any size concerns me. That'll be a problem in general, sooner or later.
That aside, twice can be enough, it depends on what you're feeding and how much available food their is in your system.
Anything that bullies a wrasse into hiding is too aggressive. A bullied wrasse is soon to be a dead wrasse. Some fish labeled as "peaceful" can do this. As for a Sailfin, that depends on the personality/attitude of that given Sailfin. Tank size matters here too.
A trio of one species would be acceptable, provided the tank is stocked appropriately and can handle the bio-load. I will caution, C. scottorum is VERY aggressive, and might not be a good fit for you.
JohnniG
New member
Ty for your answer. Are the wrasses a flockfish? If I buy 4 flame wrasses for my 140 g will they swim together?
evolved
Wrasse Nut
No. They'll interact with each other, but there's no schooling behavior.
evolved
Wrasse Nut
190g DSA tank, 60x27x27
C. lineatus (m)
C. rhomboidalis (m)
C. nahackyi (m/f pair)
C. lunatus (m)
C. johnsoni (m/f pair)
C. earlei (m)
P. bellae (m)
P. octotaenia (m)
H. timorensis (m/f pair)
H. melanurus (m)
The list of species I've kept in the past is probably twice as long.
C. lineatus (m)
C. rhomboidalis (m)
C. nahackyi (m/f pair)
C. lunatus (m)
C. johnsoni (m/f pair)
C. earlei (m)
P. bellae (m)
P. octotaenia (m)
H. timorensis (m/f pair)
H. melanurus (m)
The list of species I've kept in the past is probably twice as long.
Evolved,
I've been doing additional research on wrasses. I ran across your incredible and highly informative "wrasse" post on a different website. Thank you for that! For anyone wanting to learn about wrasses, it's a must read.
A quick question and perhaps I missed it in your wrasse posting:
Does the "terminal phase" alter the compatibilty of different species of otherwise compatible wrasses? Can you keep two "terminal" phase wrasses of different species together, or would it be prohibitive?
Thanks. You're a wonderful resource on these interesting fish.
I've been doing additional research on wrasses. I ran across your incredible and highly informative "wrasse" post on a different website. Thank you for that! For anyone wanting to learn about wrasses, it's a must read.
A quick question and perhaps I missed it in your wrasse posting:
Does the "terminal phase" alter the compatibilty of different species of otherwise compatible wrasses? Can you keep two "terminal" phase wrasses of different species together, or would it be prohibitive?
Thanks. You're a wonderful resource on these interesting fish.
evolved
Wrasse Nut
Thank you much for the compliments. 
"Terminal phase" would be better stated as just "terminal male" or "terminal state", as it's really the end product of the transitional phase, but I digress.
No, it's not at all prohibitive; two terminal males of a different species can be kept together (assuming an appropriately sized tank). Some species exceptions and certain combinations need apply however.
Several of the males in my list are terminal males; all in the same tank.
"Terminal phase" would be better stated as just "terminal male" or "terminal state", as it's really the end product of the transitional phase, but I digress.
No, it's not at all prohibitive; two terminal males of a different species can be kept together (assuming an appropriately sized tank). Some species exceptions and certain combinations need apply however.
Several of the males in my list are terminal males; all in the same tank.
