Fallow period for cryptocaryon irritans (ich)

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Interesting. Good to know because every solid reference I have heard from (not mentioning names...because I looked all this up years ago and forgot) said it does not help with saltwater ich. I suppose the lack of fruitful efforts of change of temperature in marine tanks led people to believe that.

Well it does not help the situation with saltwater ich as far as solving the problem with fish. . As I mentioned above temperature will change the life cycle "speed" but in the process with dissolved oxygen being lower due to the higher temperature, the fish will suffer more. Faster life cycle speed will reduce the fallow period so that the 99% solution comes more quickly. With no fish as hosts, the parasite will eventually die out. My recollection is that at 66F and below the parasite goes dormant but does not die out. I recall nothing about variations at 39F but that is quite possible.
 
So, Steve, does the copper period need to be the same as the fallow period? No one wants to address this issue. 10 weeks fallow, but 4 copper doesnt seem like a good cure.
 
So, Steve, does the copper period need to be the same as the fallow period? No one wants to address this issue. 10 weeks fallow, but 4 copper doesnt seem like a good cure.

Two different issues although obviously related. Nine weeks fallow (what I consider 99.9 percent surety) is for all phases of the life cycle to die off in your display tank. Treatment with copper kills the parasite. Copper in a reef tank would be destructive hence the longer fallow period than the treatment period.
 
Two different issues although obviously related. Nine weeks fallow (what I consider 99.9 percent surety) is for all phases of the life cycle to die off in your display tank. Treatment with copper kills the parasite. Copper in a reef tank would be destructive hence the longer fallow period than the treatment period.

I understand not using copper in the reef, my point is copper kills only in one stage of life, the same stage of life we are waiting for to hatch in the reef, but with lack of host it dies in the reef.

So it doesnt matter if its lack of host or copper that kills it, we need either fallow (for the DT/reef) and hypo or copper (for the fish) but to achive 99.9% effectiveness, it needs to be 9 weeks, regardless of medium we are speaking about.
 
Steve, I really like what you wrote about ich on here. However I think there is an error in the method. Why do we treat for copper for 4 weeks, but fallow the DT for 9 or 10?

My suggestion is display tank fallow for 9 weeks, treatment with copper (tested every night just before lights out) for four weeks, then observation for four weeks afterward. However, I am fairly adept at noticing behavioral symptoms (not white spotds) and can resume treatment as needed. For those less confident, 8 weeks is fine, except . . .

Copper has several significant disadvantages in treating Ich. First, at too low a dosage, it is ineffective. Secondly, at too high a dosage, it could kill all your fish; some fish cannot deal with the normal therapeutic dose while others can. Daily before lights out, or better yet twice daily, testing is required to maintain an appropriate and consistent level of copper. Even then, within the appropriate ranges, some fish cannot tolerate copper. Some of the fish more sensitive to copper are lionfish, pufferfish, mandarins, blennies, and any other scaleless fish. Copper is also a known immunosuppressive, making fish more susceptible to secondary infections.

Copper specifically targets the infectious, free-swimming theront stage of this disease, as being buried deep in the skin of the host protects the trophonts; the cyst walls of the tomonts are similarly impervious. It may be that the protomont stage is susceptible to copper before it is able to encyst but that is my speculation and I can find no literature source for this supposition.

Copper is probably the most popular method of treating Cryptocaryon irritans, but tank transfer is probably my first choice. Copper requires constant testing, and as such many hobbyists will not do this religiously. The second largest downside is that it lowers the fish's resistance to other diseases, and can cause serious damage to the kidney, liver, and beneficial intestinal flora of the fish being treated.


Say when yo put you fish in the HT timer starts, but say you also introduce cysts that arent going to hatch for say 40 days. Not even as far strecthed as 72 days. Just 40 days

Well the copper has been removed after 30 days, now those cysts hatch, fish are reinfected. And as we all know, they may have subclinical symptoms. So we re introduce them to the DT, then down the road, BAM more ich. Do you see where Im going with this? Im really wondering if we need a 9 or 10 week copper treatment. That makes more sense to me. The copper period needs to be equal length as the fallow period. If it isnt, the practice is flawed and doesnt make sense.

Your input?
 
The formalin based solution I used was Ich-X.

Isn't this for fresh water systems including ponds?


I recently had an ich outbreak in my tank; killed all but one fish in 6 days since the start of the disease (the sixline living was never bothered by it).

If it killed all fish (except one) that quickly it was more likely velvet (oodinium)
 
Forgive me if I missed this somewhere in this topic.
I'll be catching infected fish with ich/flukes this weekend.
A "proper" QT/TREATMENT, do I take out only infected fish or all fish regardless.
My objective is 99.9% cure...I want to this only once, and I'm not looking back what I should've done...

Here is my fish list:
Blue Chromis - NO SIGNS
Dispar Anthias - NO SIGNS
Yellow Corris - NO SIGNS
Maroon Clown - NO SIGNS
Cleaner Wrasse - NO SIGNS
Neon Goby - NO SIGNS
Swissguard - NO SIGNS
Black Tang - FLUKES/ICH
Achilles - FLUKES/ICH
Hippo - ICH maybe FLUKES
Yellow Tang - ICH maybe FLUKES
Chevron/Juv. - NO SIGNS

TIA, James
 
If any fish in a tank has parasites, the tank has parasites and all fish must be treated and the tank left fallow.
 
Thanks Steve,
I got 20 total fish mostly med/small size, my 30g HT may not be big enough, what would be a proper size tank? since I will follow your transfer method and will need 2 aquariums..
 
A 30g tank there may be aggression, I would be more inclined to use 2 30g tanks rather than 1 large tank for that amount of fish.
 
To make a long story short I have a 120 reef which was recently 75% wiped out,due to ich or similar parasite directly or indirectly causing white spots on the fish. I NEVER want to go through this again (after years of having zero problems with infection i slacked on my 2wk quarantine protocol) and I am willing to do whatever it takes to make sure it doesnt happen again. For starters, should I completely get rid of anthing I cant sterilize (aside from corals) including substrate and live rock or can I honestly trust a fallow period beyond the recommended amount of time? I am willing to completely start over and MAKE SURE I never introduce any parasites into the aquarium (using AT LEAST a 2 wk quarantine with fish) or can I really trust in the fallow period and that the supposed rumor/myth that crypt doesnt lay fallow until it recognizes weakness?
I lost over 1k worth of fish including one of my snowflake clowns which I am sure is severly missed by its RBT anenome!
 
Maybe i missed this as I was thumbing through this thread and I'm also trying to learn more about this. You say to QT all the fish in the tank and let the DT sit for 10 weeks fish free, what affect does ich have on inverts. should you take them out of the DT as well or is it a fish only disease?
 
all of my fish have ick but my six line wrass , I have moved all my fish to the qt tank but the six line becouse I can not catch him , all other fish have been it qt for two weeks , the six line still shows no sign of ick , do I need to get him out for all the ick to die out .
 
all of my fish have ick but my six line wrass , I have moved all my fish to the qt tank but the six line becouse I can not catch him , all other fish have been it qt for two weeks , the six line still shows no sign of ick , do I need to get him out for all the ick to die out .

Yes. Fallow means NO fish. Your fish may have no visible signs of ich and still have have ich. All hosts must be removed, and this means all fish.
 
Is it possible for ich to live dormant in the frozen food we put in our tanks? this thought just occurred to me as I read this thread. I just got through a 12-week fallow period in my DT and treating my surviving fish with cupramine for a month and observing for another and treating with prazipro. taking NO chances! it would be so depressing to have another outbreak!

I wish I were smart enough and had the time to work on a cure for ich (although I'm sure many have already tried). I have a feeling you'd be a millionaire pretty quickly if you came up with a reef-safe treatment. I would have paid $500 (maybe more at this point!) to be able to treat my DT without catching all the fish and running fallow for 12 weeks!
 
one more quick question...Is it OK to introduce fish to a QT being treated with cupramine? I just got an order of fish from LA and one of the anthias was dead and needs to be replaced. they said i should wait out the 14-day guarantee on the other fish as they'll only reship one time for the order so i won't get the other anthias for a couple weeks. i don't really want to delay the treatment of the fish i do have. any issues here? i plan on treating for around 5 weeks so the new guy would come into an ich-free tank and then be treated for 3 weeks.
 
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