Fan Replacement - Ideas? (Pictures)

[meegwell]

OK first off getting any help from the light fixture manufacturer is out of the question so it's me and the good folks at RC to help me get through this.

The relatively new fixture (maristar II by sunlight supply) has some fan issues. There are two internal fan placed over each MH:

One fan does not operate at all anymore and they are VERY loud. By far the loudest part of my setup and they even cause me to have to turn up the volume on the TV across the room.

So, my thought is I'll swap them out. They are 12v fans wired by a harness into a board. They come on and off with the T5/LED/Timers in the unit and the MHs are separate plugs.

Im not sure about what type of control or other stuff is going on once it plugs into the board. I see a transformer I assume is stepping up the power to 120v:

The fan oscillates "low" and "high" whenever the MHs are not on. I dont understand this and dont know if its a function of the fan or something the electronics are directing it to do. When the MHs are on its steady.

So here is what I am thinking:

1. I can get the appropriate replacement fans and mount it and splice the black and red wires (there is one red and one black to each fan)

2. I can get the appropriate replacement fans and wire them to power on their own.

Option 1 may leave me with this weird oscillating issue. Option 1 will also have the fans running all the time, no matter if MH, T5, or just LED moonlights. That is the way it is setup now and I would prefer to have the fans come on and off with the MHs only.

What do you guys think? If I want to just unplug the fans from the board and replace them and run separate wires out to an outlet....should I go with the same 12v fans or just do 120v? Should I not be doing this? Can I get 12v fans with plugs or will I have to do some rigging there?

Thanks all.

 

[Gorgok]

Depending on what the rest of the case looks like i'd probably get as large 12VDC computer fans as i could fit in there. With that there would be three options, wire them directly to the transformer at 12V, and live with them being on and full all the time (larger fans are quieter); or get some control device for them that drops the voltage a little (large fan moving slower is really quiet); or power them separate so you can turn them off via a timer.

 

[meegwell]

the transformer says 120vac in, 10vac out. Are teh fans getting 10V as it is now?

Is powering a 12vDC fan as simple as connecting a 12v transformer plug? I assume you dont by 12v fans with plugs.

 

[redfishblewfish]

If it were me, I’d replace those fans with ones that have bearings. Most computer fans were not designed to be mounted horizontally, and that’s one of the reason they don’t last long.

The critical thing you need to do is to make sure the total amperage does not exceed the rating of the power supply. I think I’m seeing a 1.5 A power supply, so for two fans, each cannot draw more than 0.75 amps….and that shouldn’t be a problem.

 

[ChrisOaty]

I agree with Gorgok. Larger is better for air flow to noise ratio in most cases. If you want to stay with the same size fan, (simple replacement) there are a couple great brands that are known for better bearings and lower noise (silenx comes to mind). Just cut wires, + to +, - to - and done.

 

[Gorgok]

Mistake on my part about the transformer, i obviously wasn't completely awake yet. They are not getting their power directly from it (since its AC), but maybe somewhere after the fact there is a rectifier or whatnot to change it all to DC (though it could be in the light driving circuits and inaccessible also). If you can't find that spot you could also just add your own wall wart, with wires soldered to the prongs (then insulated) and wire those leads directly to the AC in line wherever its most convenient. You could do 12V, 12V and a fan controller (usually a simple resistor circuit) or just opt for a lower voltage like 9V or 10V and always run the fans slower. Every fan has its own low voltage limit where it wont self start, then another point where it wont keep running even if hand started, but 9-12V should be fine. Getting to 6V or so and the fans i like won't start.

 

[meegwell]

Mistake on my part about the transformer, i obviously wasn't completely awake yet. They are not getting their power directly from it (since its AC), but maybe somewhere after the fact there is a rectifier or whatnot to change it all to DC (though it could be in the light driving circuits and inaccessible also). If you can't find that spot you could also just add your own wall wart, with wires soldered to the prongs (then insulated) and wire those leads directly to the AC in line wherever its most convenient. You could do 12V, 12V and a fan controller (usually a simple resistor circuit) or just opt for a lower voltage like 9V or 10V and always run the fans slower. Every fan has its own low voltage limit where it wont self start, then another point where it wont keep running even if hand started, but 9-12V should be fine. Getting to 6V or so and the fans i like won't start.

my main concerning about just splicing them in as-is is that a) whatever caused the right side to stop working may still be a problem and b) this ramping up and down may still exist (btw it seems to do it when it is cooler and stays steady when it is hot) and I would prefer to set seperate timing. So, with your quote above I would need something between the fan and the transformer plug if I go that route? Excuse my ignorance here I rarely deal with electronics electric! When I say "transformer plug" IM talking about the black box type plug seen on most small electronics.

 

[Gorgok]

If you do want to have them only come on with a timer then you would need some sort of timer between their power source lump (wall wart) and the AC line from the wall. Then its more difficult to just include it in the fixture. (Actually including it isnt that diffucult, but adjusting it later would mean opening it up again.) But you can find plenty of 12V plug in wall warts with fairly long cables. Then you can add a jack that matches that to the fixture and wire the fans to that jack.

 

[meegwell]

Ill just plug it into a timer like the hallides. Here is what I am thinking. I will buy replacement fans that fit. I will buy a 12v "wall wart" < is that what you refer to the black box plug or in-line box? Mount the new fans where the existing one are, run the wires through a small hole in the back of the fixture. Splice the wall wart wires to it, plug it into the timer. Sound correct?

 

[Mark Bianco]

A wall wart is the same thing as a phone charger except 12vdc you can find these at Radio Shack or online at any electronic website Just make sure it 12vdc and has enough amperage to run two of what ever fans you buy.

 

[meegwell]

A wall wart is the same thing as a phone charger except 12vdc you can find these at Radio Shack or online at any electronic website Just make sure it 12vdc and has enough amperage to run two of what ever fans you buy.

thanks mark. looks like I got a plan developing here.

 

[skunkmere]

take the sticker off and drop a couple drops of some all in one oil or some call it sewing machine oil on the metal area that will make them quieter.

 

[meegwell]

Can I wire both fans into one wall wart? I assume if i pay attention to the amps - sum of fans < wall wart rating I would be fine?

 

[redfishblewfish]

Can I wire both fans into one wall wart? I assume if i pay attention to the amps - sum of fans < wall wart rating I would be fine?

Yes you can....and you are correct in that amps are additive and you must have equal to or more amps on the wall wart then the sum of your fans. But why use a wall wart when you basically have one in the light unit. This thing:

is the power supply for the fans. Test that it's producing 12 v, and you should be good to go.

 

[Gorgok]

is the power supply for the fans.

Sticker says 10VAC and being a transformer that is correct. Somewhere down the line it may be changed to DC, but powering fans directly off that is no go.

With most fans, a wall wart at about 0.5A is plenty, even the stock fans only draw .22A each. Many fans actually draw less too (mine draw 0.08A).

 

[Rogue sub]

You could use a voltmeter to determine if it is the fan that is broken or the power supply.
I get all my fans from newegg.com when I can. You can find much higher quality equipment there.

 

[meegwell]

I checked out newegg...big selection. I see some rated at 22db, i think that is pretty quiet.

 

[meegwell]

I just ordered two fans from frozencpu...another great option for somone looking for cooling fans. Huge selection and you can sort by dB rating among other things.

I got Noisblocker NB multiframe fans 80x25mm that move 35cfm @ 2200 rpm with a confirmed db rating of 19. Power rating is 2.04 w each so I will look to a transformer plu/wall wart rated above 4.08 w/ room.

The voltage rating says "4.5 - 13.8v" ....that seems odd to me?

 

[Gorgok]

That sounds just right for a 12V fan really. It means it could be slowed down with voltage dropping to 4.5V without it shutting down. Also, while computer power supplies put out a very consistent 12V, cheaper power bricks and all batteries usually are more than 12V when they are 12V rated. Only with enough load is it truly 12V. Even with fans without a label like that i wouldn't worry about running them on 12V rated things even if the output is higher, they will just spin a little faster.

 

[moondoggy4]

How did these new fans work out? I have a Maristar II and yes the fans are really loud wife is going crazy, so looking to change them out. thanks in advance