filter floss used in tank transfer method

Lion-o

Member
Hello,

Just a quick question about the tank transfer method. I understand filter floss is a good idea as it is something easy to throw away, and it can be soaked in a non contaminated tank before hand to get a quick bio filter going in the rapidly changing QT environment.

My question is, do you need HOB filters for it? Or is it sufficient to just tie it down to something in the tank with a powerhead & airstone running? I can purchase new HOB filters if needed, but seeing as everything needs to be dried out inbetween it seems to me it would be easier without them.

Now then... would would I tie down the filter floss to..
 
I haven't used filter floss with tank transfer. I just use a tank, heater, powerhead, and some PVC fittings. With light feeding and a little Prime, ammonia hasn't been an issue.
 
No reason you couldn't use filter floss to capture debris while doing TT. However, I would either dispose of it afterwards, or rinse it thoroughly and let it dry for a week or more before using it again. IMO; filter floss absorbs too much water to be trusted again after only 72 hrs.
 
Sorry if I was unclear, I definitely plan to throw away the current floss after each transfer. I was just wondering if I need a HOB filter or not for it :)
 
Sorry if I was unclear, I definitely plan to throw away the current floss after each transfer. I was just wondering if I need a HOB filter or not for it :)

Ah gotcha - my bad.

You could just wrap some around a powerhead intake, using a rubberband or strap tie. Sponge/foam material would work as well. This looks like it would be ideal for using filter floss in TT and also providing gas exchange:

6219.jpg


http://www.bigalspets.com/quick-draw-corner-aquarium-filter.html
 
thanks Humble. If I had more time, I would probably buy a couple of those as they are pretty cheap :) However, I don't think I've ever seen those in the LFS and I have to move fast.

I'm going to be in SF starting tomorrow for a work function for the full week. Tonight I am filling a new tank and trying to capture my two fish in my 300g and move them into a 25. Hopefully ammonia won't be a problem but I do have Prime to help out if things don't look great. When I get back I plan to immediately do a water change and then go for the tank xfer method.

We had ich in the past despite QT'ing. We treated with hypo for 8 weeks and it looked all clear but just last night we saw a single white dot on each of our 2 remaining fish. This time I think we're a bit more prepared ... but the biggest issue will be removing them from the 300g display!
 
FF can jam the propeller of a power filter.

When I use FF, I always bag it in nylon panty hose but also making sure that it is scretched out.

This is also a good "sponge" as medium of biological filtration, especially if you want to avoid calcerous material.
 
We had ich in the past despite QT'ing. We treated with hypo for 8 weeks and it looked all clear but just last night we saw a single white dot on each of our 2 remaining fish. This time I think we're a bit more prepared ... but the biggest issue will be removing them from the 300g display!

A single white dot wouldn't be enough evidence for me to tear apart a 300 gal. Keep a close eye on it. If it is ich, the white dot should slowly fade away after 3-7 days.
 
I'm inclined to agree, but as I mentioned we have had ICH in this tank before. And we lost 3 out of 4 fish to it :( We treated with hypo, but it took a lot longer than I expected it to get down to 1.009 (because you have to change ALOT of water to make a dent in the salinity of a 300g tank). Tank ran at 1.009 for 8 weeks with just the one butterfly left before we slowly started raising salinity again. Assumed all was well because of his healthy recovery, but it looks like somehow some snuck through.

The reason we are trying to act tonight is we'll be leaving for the work trip tomorrow. Unfortunately, these things always seem to pick the worst times to show up. In the future, we will be doing tank xfer on all fish in QT i think.

We were watching the butterfly closely as I did notice the white spec on him first. Last night, the wife saw a similar white spec on our rabbitfish. While it's probably not 100% conclusive, we don't want to wait to act and end up with more dead fish on our hands :(
 
I just finished a round of TT and all I used was 18 gal rubbermaid containers, heaters, air stone and ammonia badge (thrown out after each transfer) a couple PVC fittings for each and some prime on hand "just in case". No real need for anything else including HOB filters or power heads.
 
How much crapolla can enter the water column in 3 days I wonder while in the tank for TTT that would warrant a floss or sponge filter?
 
How much crapolla can enter the water column in 3 days I wonder while in the tank for TTT that would warrant a floss or sponge filter?

Sorry, never saw this reply. With the larger fish in a 20-30g tank that is only meant to be a temporary holding group, the ammonia actually builds up quite fast. The prime seems to do the job until the tank cycle is complete and natural things take over.

We finished our tank transfer method roughly 27 days ago now. First was a hypo treatment, then tank transfer. Inspecting the fish daily and it looks to me like the rabbit fish has several white bumps. Huge sigh... Going to watch it the next few days to see how it progresses. I don't see anything on the butterfly but of course it could all just be in the gills. If all signs point to ich again I guess I'm on to try copper as the solution. Not sure what else to do aside from sitting back and watching them die.
 
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