Filters

Why only a couple? :lol:

If I can only have two, it will be a circular polarizer and a GND.

How important are they? It depends on what you shoot. Wildlife and Sports shooters for example- most of them have no use for filters, maybe except a clear one for protection. On the other hand, landscape photogs use them a lot - It ranks up there along with the tripod.

One thing I can say-- If you must buy one, always choose a high quality filter. You don't want to put a cheap $20 glass bottle in front of your $1500 lens. btw, this is a highly debated topic... :)
 
Why only a couple? :lol:

Agreed. I have around 40. I don't use them much as I don't shoot landscapes much. There are a few other uses though. I have a set of Cokin Frame Shapes used for portrait work. Some are different shades of colors. Some create effects with lighting.

Here's a sunset with a #3 sepia and an 8 point star on a Cokin frame.

DSC_4002_edited-1.jpg
 
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On the other hand, landscape photogs use them a lot - It ranks up there along with the tripod.

btw, this is a highly debated topic... :)

LOL - let the Debate begin :). I do a ton of landscape and rarely use filters. The one exception as stated would be a circular polarizer. I do use that one fairly often. I no longer see the use of a split ND due to the digital era yielding better results (IMO). As for a several stop ND I can see the value for an extra long exposure but I don't have one.

Lot's of folk here still use the graduated ND's. When I look at my old shots when I used to use them I cringe at the under exposure on all the tree tops that cross the gap. On a clear horizon it's great, but aside from at the beach how often do you get a clear, flat, unniterupted horizon?

Just MYO of course. YMMV :).
 
-any use for shooting reef shots ?
because i was thinking to buy me a polarizing filter to photograph my tank , any thoughts ?

greetingzz tntneon :)
 
No point in a CPL for tank shots unless you're shooting from the top down AND have a singular light source like a metal halide. From what I understand of CPL filters, you'll not get as good of results if you're shooting under long skinny lights like a T5. You want a single light source.

I dont think there are any filters I'd recommend for tank shooting. I really cant think of any instance I'd want one of my filters on while shooting my aquarium.
 
No need for a filter, for aquarium photography. I use UV filters, for protection only. They're put on the lens as soon as the lens is purchased and only come off for cleaning, then right back on.

I use a CP filter, once in awhile, mainly for landscape photography, where they can be used to deepen the blue of the sky and remove reflections from water. I've also used the CP filter a couple times, shooting at an outdoor car show, to reduce glare of the sun off glass.
 
I shoot a lot of sports durring football, basketball, volleyball seasons. The only filter I use is a decent quality uv or clear filter on my lens. The only lenses that I do not currently have filters on are my ultra wide angles. From what I have heard that cuase quite a bit of vignetting on my Tokina 12-24. What really has saved me a few times as far as protection goes is a decent hood will go far stopping a ball from even getting to the glass. And boy does that get your heart going when a basketball bounces off the front of your nice glass.
Red
 
In most cases the need for filters went away with film. A polarizer is the only filter I have used in along time.

Jim
 
when outside I use the B+W Kaesemann Polarizer use the best polarizer with expensive lenses or your shots could be compromised.
 
That's actually good advice for any filter. The lens makers put very expensive coatings on their glass to eliminate ghosting and flare. Putting a cheap filter, the "lens protectors" are the worst, over the front defeats all of that. I shoot mainly landscape but there's a polarizer on my lens all the time, unless it's night and I need the extra light. Always buy the best you can afford.

Why spend $1500 on a lens only to make it "see" through a $40 piece of glass?
 
I know it was discussed on here at some point, but I don't remember where...

I have a Sigma 10-20mm, and was looking for a Polarizer for it. It's 77mm thread, so I need a fairly big filter. My question is, do I need a "slim" design filter to prevent vignetting or any other unwanted effects on such a wide lens? I have seen where some people say yes and some people say no.
 
I know it was discussed on here at some point, but I don't remember where...

I have a Sigma 10-20mm, and was looking for a Polarizer for it. It's 77mm thread, so I need a fairly big filter. My question is, do I need a "slim" design filter to prevent vignetting or any other unwanted effects on such a wide lens? I have seen where some people say yes and some people say no.


There are two problems with a polarizer on a super-wide. One is vignetting as you mentioned. I don't own that lens so I can't answer whether you need the slim filter or not.

The other problem is most apparent when shooting sky. Polarizers have their maximum effect when your subject is 90 degrees, perpendicular, to the light source. Because the field of view is so wide on a lens like that you end up with uneven application of the polarization. When you've got sky in the frame, that usually manifests itself as a dark blue "blob" in the middle of your light blue sky. I'll often take the polarizer off, or adjust the effect away, when shooting very wide and getting lots of sky.
 
Hmm, I see...

Well I was looking at getting the polarizer to cut down on the blown highlights of the sky... I don't do a whole lot of landscapes, but up close shots of cars and whatnot, so a tripod isn't really too convenient or courteous at a car show, and I don't really like doing HDR without a tripod.

Here is an example of the angle I tend to shoot at... The sky was overcast, so it wasn't that blown out, but if it were a sunny day, how would you go about correcting this shot? (filters, no filters, photoshop, 2 shots at different EV)
5784145412_4aa7ba1594.jpg
 
to the best of my knowledge the Polarizer will lower the intensity of the reflections on the car but it won't lower the "brightness" of the whites in the sky and clouds. It will force you to use a longer shutter speed though since it blocks light (I think about two stops). That may be an issue if your hand holding. I think the only way you can control what you're talking about here (not a blue sky) is to use a split graduated ND filter or hold as still as you can and use Exp compensation (a big gap if you want to pull that skies highlights down with that dark car in the foreground affecting your exposure).

Just my thoughts about this, others may vary with their suggestions.
 
love that car man I need one mid-life crisis and all ..lol
Hahah, well that isn't my car don't worry!! I hope that if I have a mid-life crisis that I can afford one of those to help cure it!! ;)

to the best of my knowledge the Polarizer will lower the intensity of the reflections on the car but it won't lower the "brightness" of the whites in the sky and clouds. It will force you to use a longer shutter speed though since it blocks light (I think about two stops). That may be an issue if your hand holding. I think the only way you can control what you're talking about here (not a blue sky) is to use a split graduated ND filter or hold as still as you can and use Exp compensation (a big gap if you want to pull that skies highlights down with that dark car in the foreground affecting your exposure).

Just my thoughts about this, others may vary with their suggestions.

Hmmm ok.... The few times I have used a polarizer on my other lenses it can pull the some definition of the from the clouds and bring out the blue from the sky. Again, this was a bad example as far as being a hazy/overcast day so everything was kind of that grey blah anyways... I will try using AEB and merging them together.
 
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