finally had enough

FraggledRock

FraggledRock

New member
So I finally had enough with wondering and hoping ICh would go away.

I'm not a retroactive person, i like being proactive(as much as I can), so i dismantled my aquas-cape which took hours to get looking perfect a month ago and scooped out the 3 fishes I have.

The last draw was seeing black ICH on my yellow tang!!

I'm NOT losing anymore fish to parasites... i lost two clowns and i'm not letting it get the best of me. i have sitting back this whole week seeing ich taking over (minimal spots but a definite sign.

They are all now in my quarantine tank.

i dosed the recommended first day 16 drops per gallon.

i used water from my DT to start.

i'm going to try and make it 21-28 days minimum of QT.

i will do two weekly water changes from my DT water to my QT tank.

What else must I do?

Im not running carbon or a skimmer in my QT and its bare-bottom with PVC of different sizes to accommodate hiding for each sized fish.
 
I even went as far as cover all sides of the QT to not stress them further. =/

from the little peep hole i left, they seem more active and less on the "alert" mode with the sides all "covered" sides and back paint black, front used painters tape and let opening to view..
 
sounds like you are on the right track. you probably know this but do not use prime while using the copper. It will make for an immediate bad day. The prime will turn the copper into a very toxic form.

while do water changes make sure you keep the copper level consistent.

keep the DT fallow for 72 days. Good luck
 
gone fishin said:
sounds like you are on the right track. you probably know this but do not use prime while using the copper. It will make for an immediate bad day. The prime will turn the copper into a very toxic form.

while do water changes make sure you keep the copper level consistent.

keep the DT fallow for 72 days. Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I am only doing Cupramine right now.

I read that the black Ich isn't as formidable as the regular crypto.

I need to get a copper test kit, but I will just stick to the 16 drops pr 10 gallons every water change. ii notice the water turns blue after a while so once i see a blue tint I will do 100% water change til next week (i get paid bi weekly) and I decided 7 days of Qt is better than waiting 7 more day =D

damn 72?

whoosh.

Wish me LUCK! ::CROSSES FINGERS::
 
Also does the copper work while the ICH is in cyst form? or does it kill ich once the crypto detached from the host and lay eggs? or is the copper effective once the ich eggs hatch and the babies enter the water column?

that aspect i never knew.

and Do shrimp get ich?

i read that shrimps can get and keep ICH alive in the DT?
 
Yeah 72 is the longest known for the ich to come out of its cyst stage. Some will go a little shorter but I figure in for a penny in for a pound, why take the chance.

I also meant to mention to make sure the copper stays consistent when doing your fresh water top offs and get your copper test as soon as possible.
 
FraggledRock said:
Also does the copper work while the ICH is in cyst form? or does it kill ich once the crypto detached from the host and lay eggs? or is the copper effective once the ich eggs hatch and the babies enter the water column?

that aspect i never knew.

and Do shrimp get ich?

i read that shrimps can get and keep ICH alive in the DT?
Click to expand...

only fish can host the ich. shrimp will not. the rest of your critters can stay in the DT.

The copper gets the little buggers in their free swimming stage.
 
gone fishin said:
Yeah 72 is the longest known for the ich to come out of its cyst stage. So will go a little shorter but I figure in for a penny in for a pound, why take the chance.

I also meant to mention to make sure the copper stays consistent when doing your fresh water top offs and get your copper test as soon as possible.
Click to expand...

yea its like salinity in a way (how my brain make sense of it LOL)

yea the copper test is priority.

or at least I will bring the water to get tested at the LFS ASAP!

i know .6 is fine but .8 or above its lethal right?
 
What are you feeding your fish? Healthy fish have a better chance of survival. And of not getting ich again. I do not say I have the perfect formula. But I think Paul B is on the right track. I just bought my first live clams. Froze them and sliced thinly. Mixed reviews from the fish so far. Also going to add black worms to their diet next. Just some "food" for thought. Good luck.

Shelley
 
It has been a really long time since I used copper, I use Tank transfer now.
I don't want to give you some bad info. if you check in the fish disease forum stickies it should give you the levels to keep the copper at.
 
I feed a concoction of BRine shrimp + Mysis shrimp + Rods Food + Fresh(frozen) shrimp from fish market + Kent garlic extract. I feed twice a day.

for the tang I feed algae wafers and Nori. Garlic drip on both
 
In my battles with ich, I found feeding the most important. There's no way to get rid of ich without TTM or Copper or Hypo and 72 days fallow. I'm sure you know that. But I can't catch all my wrasse without removing all the rocks, and I can't set up that many QT yet. I fed Adrock's ich remedy receipe. It's a mix of reef safe antibiotics (metro) + lots of nutrients + garlic. It won't get rid of ich. But it will help your fish eat and be at their best shape to fight off ich. A healthy fish won't die of ich that easily.

so far all my fish survived ich. The spots are gone. Everything healthy and fat. I plan to set up another 125gal QT later. Any fish I catch, I will TTM and toss inside. It's a big investment..
 
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