finally had enough

good thing i have an acrylic cover on my qt tank and a hood on my dt!!!!

aerosol-ized water transmission!!???!!!! effin ayyyy
 
FraggledRock said:
wouldn't the copper kill it once it was hit with copper?
Click to expand...
Not if it attaches to a fish. We only have a small window the get these buggers in their life cycle. We want to kill them all and leave the fish and tank ick free. After the treatment we try to observe the fish for atleast another 2 weeks after the treatment ends. That means no copper in the tank and some ick might decide to hatch at that time and then you have to start all over again.
 
Casino said:
Not if it attaches to a fish. We only have a small window the get these buggers in their life cycle. We want to kill them all and leave the fish and tank ick free. After the treatment we try to observe the fish for atleast another 2 weeks after the treatment ends. That means no copper in the tank and some ick might decide to hatch at that time and then you have to start all over again.
Click to expand...

good call!

thanks for the input!

fresh water mixes!
 
I would just like to applaud you for doing the right thing for your fish. I also learned the hard way that EVERY fish needs to be in QT. All it took was one fish to wipe out my entire tank but it was a lesson I will never forget. I used cupramine with great results for the 3 survivors that I had.
 
Mercurio said:
I would just like to applaud you for doing the right thing for your fish. I also learned the hard way that EVERY fish needs to be in QT. All it took was one fish to wipe out my entire tank but it was a lesson I will never forget. I used cupramine with great results for the 3 survivors that I had.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I appreciate that!

Im sorry you had to experience that. I never go down without a fight LOL

it seems theres always a "lucky" 3? hmmm
 
I see your in NY, I know space can be a premium in the city. if possible do tank transfer on any new additions. very easy, low stress on you and the fishes.
 
I am noticing more spots on all 3 the fish.

is this because the crypto is cysting preparing to drop off?

I did a floor siphon. I am going to try and keep it spotless!

This is day two I am thinking to do a transfer from copper to hyposalinity (since i don't have a copper test kit right now i feel unprepared and an don't wanna overdose).

Is hypo salinity more effective than copper?
 
I would personally recommend longer then 72 days for the fallow tank. 72 days is the shortest I would do. I would keep the tank fallow for three months before re-introducing fish. Being vigilant now can save heaps of time in the future by not having to do the whole quarantine/fallow tank thing again.

Also, I learned the hard way to quarantine EVERYTHING. I introduced ich to my first tank off a coral frag. I hadn't added a fish in ages but added a new frag and what do you know I got ich not long after. Didn't have a clue where the ich came from until I got on our locale site and realized the guy I bought the frag off of had come down with a major ich infestation. The frag had carried some of the ich cysts into my tank. Anything with a hard surface can harbor ich cysts as long as they have been in a tank with ich (even if no active outbreak at the time). It can come in on coral frags, live rock, snail shells, clam shells, hardware, etc. Quarantine everything and clean hardware really well before adding it to your DT. I have a tank specifically for quarantining corals, snails, etc before adding them to my DT.
 
FraggledRock said:
That is 3 days in one QT and 3 days in another QT after the cysts drop off?
Click to expand...

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388428
Here is the link on how to do it.

As to your other post about hyposalinity, IMO it is the hardest to pull off the salinity must stay in a narrow band if it rises then the clock must start over. Also, there are reports of some strains of ich that have become hypo tolerant.

I would advise to stop your treatment until you have the copper test. Right now your shooting in the dark. It would be a shame to accidentally overdose your fishes.
 
gone fishin said:
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388428
Here is the link on how to do it.

As to your other post about hyposalinity, IMO it is the hardest to pull off the salinity must stay in a narrow band if it rises then the clock must start over. Also, there are reports of some strains of ich that have become hypo tolerant.

I would advise to stop your treatment until you have the copper test. Right now your shooting in the dark. It would be a shame to accidentally overdose your fishes.
Click to expand...

yea i don't wanna overdose.

damn. i guess ill just keep it at 16 drops per 10 gallons for every water change. so 50% water change and 8 drops =/

they are already in QT. its better than nothing.

hurry up pay day! =P
 
Cloudburst2000 said:
I would personally recommend longer then 72 days for the fallow tank. 72 days is the shortest I would do. I would keep the tank fallow for three months before re-introducing fish. Being vigilant now can save heaps of time in the future by not having to do the whole quarantine/fallow tank thing again.

Also, I learned the hard way to quarantine EVERYTHING. I introduced ich to my first tank off a coral frag. I hadn't added a fish in ages but added a new frag and what do you know I got ich not long after. Didn't have a clue where the ich came from until I got on our locale site and realized the guy I bought the frag off of had come down with a major ich infestation. The frag had carried some of the ich cysts into my tank. Anything with a hard surface can harbor ich cysts as long as they have been in a tank with ich (even if no active outbreak at the time). It can come in on coral frags, live rock, snail shells, clam shells, hardware, etc. Quarantine everything and clean hardware really well before adding it to your DT. I have a tank specifically for quarantining corals, snails, etc before adding them to my DT.
Click to expand...

thats crazy!!!

so what do i do with corals and inverts? QT them for 4 weeks before entry?
 
So this is approximately day 3.

My green chromis seems fine.

My royal gramma doesnt appear to have any spots.

My Yellow Tang is covered in white Spots.

The black ich is not cisible on my tang any longer tho.

Is this normal or is something wrong?

All 3 are eating.
 
Last edited:
Good luck! You are doing the right thing. I lost an entire tank once to this stuff, it hit hard and fast. Everything now gets quarantined.
 
adamv said:
Good luck! You are doing the right thing. I lost an entire tank once to this stuff, it hit hard and fast. Everything now gets quarantined.
Click to expand...

Thanks! I am just worried again since this morning the Yellow Tang had a whole lot of white spots on him!!

What does this mean?

I know things get worse before they get better, but I am not sure what is going on...
 
Yeah my tank was infected when wife went out and bought me a new frag and just placed it in the DT tank. She felt bad that my nem got sucked into the power head and nuked my tank. Now I Have two months until I start over again. I will say it's cool watching my cuc at night.
 
My experience: My tank had ICK, but it only manifested as an occasional spot here and there. That was until I added a new fish at which point I a lost a couple fish in a few days. I destroyed my aquascaping getting the survivors out and into a quarantine tank. Then I treated with the recommended dosage of 0.5 mg/L of Cupramine for 14 days getting up to that level per directions. My hamlet was too far gone and died two days later. I lost two other fish because I did not know that Prime toxified Cupramine.

The ICK came back a week after treatment had been completed in the quarantine, and after asking for help here, I treated the fish AGAIN for 30 days at 0.35 mg/L. Genius here then waited 10 weeks and put the fish back in the display tank. The white spots appeared on my fish within a week.

Another destroyed aquascape later, my fish were in quarantine again being treated for 30 days at 0.35 mg/L. My fish did not have a recurrence again after this. My display tank was fallow for around 14 weeks (because life got in the way... I was only planning on waiting 12 weeks) and is now ICK free. It is am amazing feeling being able to look at my fish and not fear for a white spot to appear...

Good luck and don't try to shortchange the 12 week fallow period in your display tank!!! What have I learned from this? Quarantine... Quarantine... and honestly, if I were ever to consider adding a new fish I would preemptively treat with Cupramine in QT or only add from LL DA...
 
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