Fire proofing

[flfirefighter13]

Rock wool would work but you would need to contain it somehow to ensure fibers and chunks didnt escape.

I think the best option is ceramic spacers with lots of airflow to pull heat away, cheap easy and effective.

 

[timrandlerv10]

when trying to get us to understand the limits and benefits of nomex in flight school, they would show us pictures of guys' thighs and waists...the nylon webbing from kneeboards and underwear would melt inside the nomex...the guy would be perfectly fine--walk away from a horrible burning crash...except for the 1" burn around his butt...

nomex burns. the brought out a piece from a flightsuit at the beginning of the lecture, put it on a light (MH maybe? ) and it was smoldering by the end of class. we went outside and they torched a hole in another piece. it never actually 'burst into flames' but if it disappears in smoke, i call that burning. but i'm no expert

 

[hllywd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8898406#post8898406 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
wrap around a liner? My wood stove has the ceramic insulation right in the top of the fire box in direct contact with the flame and intense heat Great stuff!

Bean, Yes, I use it when I reline a chimney. NFPA requires the stainless relining pipe be insulated to have a class A rating. The pipe comes in whatever length is needed, the insulation comes separate, it's foil faced and I get it in either 1/4" or 1/2" thicknesses. It gets glued on then a stainless mesh goes over top to hold it in place. The mesh works sorta like a Chinese Finger Trap.

Douggie, They are both aramids but distinctly different fibers. I don't know the chemistry. When used for protective equipment they are sometimes blended. PBI is one of those blends but not the only one.

Tim

 

[hllywd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8899628#post8899628 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by timrandlerv10
when trying to get us to understand the limits and benefits of nomex in flight school, they would show us pictures of guys' thighs and waists...the nylon webbing from kneeboards and underwear would melt inside the nomex...the guy would be perfectly fine--walk away from a horrible burning crash...except for the 1" burn around his butt...

nomex burns. the brought out a piece from a flightsuit at the beginning of the lecture, put it on a light (MH maybe? ) and it was smoldering by the end of class. we went outside and they torched a hole in another piece. it never actually 'burst into flames' but if it disappears in smoke, i call that burning. but i'm no expert

Your right Nomex does burn when in contact with a heat source, it will not support combustion when the source is removed. Some of the benefits are that it is a high heat material, and it doesn't melt to you like nylon or other synthetics do at high heat.

Tim

 

[NanoReefWanabe]

Roxul would work but there again you have to be sure to some how keep the ends in tact, as it will flake appart after you cut it...

 

[BeanAnimal]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8899828#post8899828 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hllywd
Bean, Yes, I use it when I reline a chimney. NFPA requires the stainless relining pipe be insulated to have a class A rating. The pipe comes in whatever length is needed, the insulation comes separate, it's foil faced and I get it in either 1/4" or 1/2" thicknesses. It gets glued on then a stainless mesh goes over top to hold it in place. The mesh works sorta like a Chinese Finger Trap.

Douggie, They are both aramids but distinctly different fibers. I don't know the chemistry. When used for protective equipment they are sometimes blended. PBI is one of those blends but not the only one.

Tim

Ohh sorry if I gave the wrong impression. Yes, I know it is used for SS chimney liner insulation I just put a wood stove in not long ago (though I did it before the new codes went into place and did not use the insulation). I may get frisky one day and pull the liner and insulate it (or backfill the masonry around it full of liner cement).

The funny part is that I cancled the install from the vendor because the morons were going to stub it into the masonry chimney and seal around the stub with a plate and insulation.... that's it, no liner, just a plate in place of the damper with a pipe stubbed through it! I went and purchased the materials needed to line the entire chimney myself and saved $500 and a potential fire and stove operation problems. Whata shame that the "Professional fireplace store and installers" pwn such poor work off for such a high price. FWIW I also dropped a video camera down the thing and inspected all the tiles and joints to ensure everything was intact before I put the liner in.... something else (inspection) that the installers WERE NOT going to do. I got dizzy comparing brands of SS flex pipe... so as usual I ended up buying the best I could find instead of settling for thinner or lesser alloys.

Bean

 

[douggiestyle]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8899509#post8899509 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flfirefighter13
Rock wool would work but you would need to contain it somehow to ensure fibers and chunks didnt escape.

sorry, it wasnt a suggestion. an answer. someone was trying to remember a name for the soft white brick stuff.

air flow is best. the idea is to keep the area cool.

look at oven construction. insulation to keep the oven hot. air space to keep the cabinets cool.

 

[hllywd]

Just a follow up...
The only hood I have that has a wood top has a 175 MH, and two 90W VHOs mounted to the flat style specular aluminum reflector that has 1 1/2" lips at the front and back (hope that makes sense). I made the top of the hood from 1/4" luan with about a 3/8" airspace. No problems with heat.

Tim