First QT tank

FortyFour

Member
Would appreciate any insight/advice you folks have on my first QT tank.

Equipment: 20G long tank. Bare bottom. Small power head. Heater. Light. Ammonia alert. PVC pipes. Marine pure.

Plan: I've had some marinepure blocks in my refugium for a month, to seed with bacteria. My plan is to dip incoming fish with Safety Stop, and then treat with Prazipro. Then monitor for 3-4 weeks before adding to my display tank.

Questions: If I would like to reuse the marinepure after exposing it to prazipro, what would you suggest I do before adding it back? Aside from the different QT methodologies out there, is there anything I should be thinking about related to my plan above?
 
sounds like a reasonable plan. keep in mind those ammonia alert badges aren't always accurate, so not a bad idea to test regularly as well, change water, and suction out any uneaten food or waste.

i'm not familiar with marine pure, but it is my understanding that prazi should not harm nitrifying bacteria.
 
I would treat everything with copper power... Fish may still be hosting ich

that's not necessary and can be very hard on the fish.

it's my general rule that i don't use anything prophylactically that is easy to harm a specimen with. copper medications are notoriously difficult to dose accurately and safely, and maintaining therapeutic levels can be challenging. things like prazi are generally tolerated much better, and are easier to dose and maintain.

my preference is to use TTM (Tank Transfer Method) over copper, in most cases, but also specifically for any new arrivals with that may have ich.
 
I don't put anything I had in QT back in the DT as I cannot determine what may have transferred to the media, while the risk is low, the risk is still there.

I actually don't use any cycled material at all and prefer to just make a small water change every two days to keep ammonia in check, vacuum up uneaten stuff daily.

I also do not use any meds whatsoever unless I have a reason to deploy. If the new entities are free and clear, eating and behaving well from the start, I don't keep them in QT for anymore than they have too, about two,weeks max for me....I seen more fish die in QT from excessive delays.

Feed well, a well fed fish has a stronger immune system and reduces the risk of diease.

TTM I agree is the easiest on the fish, hypo is good for Ick on delicates like tangs, cupramine I have used on the hardies like the damsel family.

You have to "read" your fish in QT and not put them through any foreign applications unless necessary, however I am very cautious when it comes to fish which I did not personally select at the LFS.

My process is to watch the fish at the store, select one but put on hold for one week.
If this fish is still eating well when I come back, I buy it.
It goes into my Simple QT with a salinity of 1.019-1.020 for a week. In general terms LFS keep their fish at the lower salinity.

If no problems, I raise the salinity .001 daily for a week until I reach target DT salinity and temp.
At this point, I have seen the fish for three weeks, if no problems, in they go.

Fish like sand sifters and mandarins I just don't QT, while the risk is present, they would not survive more than a week or two max in a QT.

Maybe some of this helps...
 
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that's not necessary and can be very hard on the fish.

it's my general rule that i don't use anything prophylactically that is easy to harm a specimen with. copper medications are notoriously difficult to dose accurately and safely, and maintaining therapeutic levels can be challenging. things like prazi are generally tolerated much better, and are easier to dose and maintain.

my preference is to use TTM (Tank Transfer Method) over copper, in most cases, but also specifically for any new arrivals with that may have ich.

I use copper power which isn't as harsh as other coppers. and a good copper test kit like the hanna checker. I've put wrasse in this and never had an issue
 
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