First thing first

naterealbig

Premium Member
Good Morning Guys and Girls,

I'll try to keep this simple, and thanks for all the help from the replies from posted threads. I have a 60gal FOWLR, with a 15gal wet/dry sump, Remora Pro skimmer, heater, and coralife aqualight pro w/ 250 Watt MH, circulated by a mag 7. I have about 30lbs of LR in the tank currently. I am going to switch this tank to a reef tank. I've got the skimmer and the right lights (?). I want sps and a clam or two. I know that I will have to slowly remove bio-balls and add a DSB and Refugium. I am also going to buy a Mag-9 (inside display) and hook it up to a manifold for better circulation. I'm going to skip the calcium reactor (limited funds), but am not decided on whether to purchase a RO-DI unit. Could I get by without one? If not, what do you recommend? I've been looking at the Kent Hi-S because it is a reasonable price but it says that it only will guarantee 250ppm TDS. I know nothing about RO-DI units except that I hear they are highly recommended for reef tanks. Any advice/help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nate
 

sir_dudeguy

New member
but am not decided on whether to purchase a RO-DI unit. Could I get by without one?

yes you can get by w/out one. But you'll have to pay for ro water either at someplace like watermart, or at your lfs...lfs is prolly a little more. But its like a quarter per gallon. I would NOT use tap for an sps tank especially.

Other than that tho, you seemed to have done a good job researching before hand. That helps a lot when you have questions. (like for this post even...you already know you gotta get rid of the bioballs and get more flow)

Oh, and i didnt see if you said this, but get at least another 40 lbs of live rock.

and WELCOME TO REEFCENTRAL!

hope this helps
 

bheron

New member
Welcome. Ok lets try with your points...


"I have about 30lbs of LR in the tank currently."

- will probably need another 30 -90 lbs. general rule is 1-2 lbs per gallon, but while it varies, i bet 30lbs is not enough.

"I've got the skimmer and the right lights (?). "
- 250 MH sounds pretty good for SPS and Clams, but lets see what others say. how long/deep is our tank?

"I know that I will have to slowly remove bio-balls and add a DSB and Refugium. "

- yes on the bio balls, regardless of a reef tank or FOWLR

- same with a fuge. good for all tanks

- i would say that you definitely dont have to add a DSB, for any tank. there's tons of thread on here about the pros-cons of a DSB. i would say no. you check up and decide for yourself!

"I am also going to buy a Mag-9 (inside display) and hook it up to a manifold for better circulation."

- hhmmmm? inside the tank? probably not. theres alot of options for better cirulation. a closed loop (CL) is probably closer to the manifold idea youre talking about. you can also just go with powerheads, like TUNZE Streams, as well. but i wouldnt submerge a Mag-9 into your display.

"I'm going to skip the calcium reactor (limited funds), but am not decided on whether to purchase a RO-DI unit. Could I get by without one? If not, what do you recommend? "

- Again, same with a FOWLR or Reef - an RODI, in my opionion, is one of the best investments you can get. but it all depends on your source water. im guessing your using tap water (and not buying RO from the sore)? if youre using tap, there most likely are tons of impurities in there. if there is copper, you wont be able to keep Corals or inverts at all! And if there is copper, you'll have to drain the whole tank (but thats another topic). bottom line, everything starts with your source water, so invest there if you can.

- as far as a brand, i would recommend, hands down, airwaterice.com and one of their typhoon products. well worth the money. theirs will give you 0-1ppm. 250 ppm is my tap water! maybe kent meant 2.5ppm?


Good luck and keep asking questions!
 

Jocko

New member
Re: First thing first

I know that I will have to slowly remove bio-balls and add a DSB and Refugium.
Remove Bio-balls = definitely.
Refugium = not necessary, but good if you can add one.
DSB = not unless you specifically want one.

The thing to understand about different sand bed types is that there are many people that have had success with every possible type and configuration. There are also people that have had failures and problems with every type. The point is that the type of sand bed you choose isn't really that important. If you want a DSB, then go for it. I just want to make sure that you don't think you must have one. You can have any kind of sand bed you want.

There are a million other things in your setup that have a MUCH bigger impact on your water quality.
 

Angel*Fish

cats and large squashes
Re: First thing first

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8136647#post8136647 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by naterealbig
Good Morning Guys and Girls,

I'll try to keep this simple, and thanks for all the help from the replies from posted threads. I have a 60gal FOWLR, with a 15gal wet/dry sump, Remora Pro skimmer, heater, and coralife aqualight pro w/ 250 Watt MH, circulated by a mag 7. I have about 30lbs of LR in the tank currently. I am going to switch this tank to a reef tank. I've got the skimmer and the right lights (?). I want sps and a clam or two. I know that I will have to slowly remove bio-balls and add a DSB and Refugium. I am also going to buy a Mag-9 (inside display) and hook it up to a manifold for better circulation. I'm going to skip the calcium reactor (limited funds), but am not decided on whether to purchase a RO-DI unit. Could I get by without one? If not, what do you recommend? I've been looking at the Kent Hi-S because it is a reasonable price but it says that it only will guarantee 250ppm TDS. I know nothing about RO-DI units except that I hear they are highly recommended for reef tanks. Any advice/help/recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Nate

[welcome]
 

Sk8r

Staff member
RC Mod
Ro/di is very important. It puts YOU and not the tech at Walmart in charge of your water quality. If somebody should have changed the filters [which are in massive use] you get no warning before you get a bad batch of water, which you then have to lug from the car, to boot, come ice, come wind and rain.

A ro/di sooner or later pays for itself---pays fast if it saves you from a tank crash. Pays all the same, even at 60c a gallon at Walmart. Really pays if you have a tank crisis on Christmas Eve when nothing's open and you need water bad.

I doubted whether I needed one, and 8 months later I wouldn't be without it.
 

naterealbig

Premium Member
FYI guys(and gals) - the tank is 24" deep. I will definately check out DSB threads, as well as airwaterice.com. Thanks so much
 
Top