Fish dying everyday help!!!

[gnu]

I have a 220 setup with a 65gal sump. The tank has been setup now for 5 months. The fish are dying and I don't know what the cause is. The symptoms are white spots, scratching and staying in from of the power heads. These symptoms are what the powder brown had. He eventually got a mucas like a white stuff was coming off and he died. He lasted about 3 weeks.

Next fish was a blue face angel that was a juvinlie changing. Couldn't see any white spots on him but only on his fins. His eyes got cloudy and just wanted to stay at the bottom of the tank and rest. I didn't notice anything on him when the powder brown was ill. the blue face kept eating then died. He lasted from what we notices 1 week with the things we saw.

Next fish was a mandarin that just turned white and stopped swimming. Woke up next morning he was dead. He is hard to find in the tank so it was hard to watch him. There is plenty of copepods also in the tank.

Next fish was a black clown that has a dusting of white spots all over it. He lasted about 2 weeks.

Next fish is a coral beauty. Eating still and looks like the pic.

Next fish is a red sea sail fin tang. He is not dead as of yet and is still eating He has no white spots, but it looks like his scales are falling off. Plus he has cloudy eyes and heavy breathing.

Next fish is a vlaminan tang that is still alive. He was the last one to show any effects what so ever. He is still eating very strong, but hides a lot. He has no white spots, but the belly and his side is getting these marks that I don't know what they are. Plus he has cloudy eye and spots on his fins.

Now that tank parameters are

am-.25
no4 .08
n02-0
ph-8.0
no3-5.0
alk-7.0
cal-420
mag-1200
sal 1.024

I have bio pellets and gfo on the tank with a uv and a skimmer. The lights are led.

I also noticed about 1 week ago that I had stray voltage of 22v. I installed a ground probe and it went away. I know thats not a permeant fix, but it will do for now. Will this have caused this?

Im just wondering if its brooknolya, lateral line disease, or something else.

We quartined everybody also for 3 weeks.

Please help I don't want the vlaminan to die.

 

[snorvich]

From the timeline, my supposition is oodinium. Unfortunately you are, IMO, too far down the path to save any fish. I suggest reviewing your quarantine process; 3 weeks is simply not enough. So sorry for your losses. I also suggest slowing down.

 

[gnu]

Thanks....Thats what Im thinking it is. Im going to try and save the v-tang tonight and put him in q-tank. Im going to start METHYLENE BLUE dips also to see if I can save him.

Question thought should I use the water from my dt for the q-tank or just make up some new water and use amquail?

 

[geaux xman]

I would definitely make up new SW. Your DT water is probably infested with whatever parasite you are dealing with. At the very minimum, start with 2-3 treatments of prazipro on ALL fish. Copper is up to you. Personally, I would do 4 weeks of copper as well on ALL fish.

Methylene Blue wont do much for the fish. I wouldnt even waste my time with it.

With that many deaths and signs of parasites, I would definitely leave the tank fallow for 10-12 weeks. If not, the problem will likely just persist later on down the road.

 

[muskiewade]

How about getting those fish in a quarantine tank and running a hyposalinity treatment?

 

[gnu]

I have heard pro and cons about that. I just don't know if it works for oodinium. I have heard of people using copper and dips though. Does it stress out the fish any?

 

[muskiewade]

From my experiences, it stresses the parasite far more than the fish!

 

[snorvich]

How about getting those fish in a quarantine tank and running a hyposalinity treatment?

Does not work for oodinium. The whole trick with oodinium is to keep the fish alive long enough for the copper to kill the parasite. A fresh water dip will give some relief but given where you are on the timeline, that is unlikely. And by the way, the fallow period should be about 8 weeks.

 

[Amdeus]

from looking at the rock in your pics some are green like fuzzy green. i also bet your amo and ni is a lot higher then you think

 

[slapshot]

Odinium is actually very easy to kill, that is what you have, but you must act fast. Get the fish into a Q tank with .21 copper solution. Hold that copper level for 15 days. You will see the fish recovering as little as 3 days but keep him in there.

Odinium's life cycle is much faster than ich. So keeping the tank fallow for 10 days usually does it but I would wait 3 weeks.

The bad news is odinium kills fish much faster. If not caught right away the fish will be dead in as little as 24 hours. Sorry, it is a dreaded parasite, but one that is easier to eradicate than ich. Best of luck!

 

[Paul B]

The slight chance any of those fish have is with copper. If you can get quinicrine hydrocloride to mix with the copper that would work very fast but if you can't get it, put them in copper today because tomorrow they will probably most likely be dead.

 

[gnu]

We took the fish out last night except the chromes because they show no sign at all. We will get them out soon and let the tank go for 8 weeks. We decided to dip the 3 clowns in freshwater last night. Woke up and 2 were dead and the last one is actually doing better. We didn't dip the tangs or the coral beauty last night. Im thinking of dipping the coral beauty in formalin maybe ,but have heard mixed reviews on it. I have copper (mardel) in the HT with the lights off and going to change 50% water every other day.

Im going to get a new ammonia test kit today and see if mine is reading wrong. I have been using api but everything else is salifert and red sea.

I tell yeah this is more expensive then my car hoppy I had!

Should I also do a maracyn plus in the HT?

 

[Dr Colliebreath]

Im going to get a new ammonia test kit today and see if mine is reading wrong. I have been using api but everything else is salifert and red sea.

Most ammonia tests don't produce accurate results when copper is present. One that works with copper tests ammonia differently.

 

[gnu]

Most ammonia tests don't produce accurate results when copper is present. One that works with copper tests ammonia differently.

I was just talking about the test kit for the DT tank. The test kit that we have for our HT is a seachem disc that hangs on the glass. I heard they work with copper and have for awhile now.

The fish are eating in the HT tank so thats a good sign. The tangs aren't swimming to much, but the clown and coral beauty are. I still have the lights off and the room dark so they sony stress to much more.

 

[slapshot]

I was just talking about the test kit for the DT tank. The test kit that we have for our HT is a seachem disc that hangs on the glass. I heard they work with copper and have for awhile now.

The fish are eating in the HT tank so thats a good sign. The tangs aren't swimming to much, but the clown and coral beauty are. I still have the lights off and the room dark so they sony stress to much more.

Please don't dip them any more. You are really just stressing them out. Odinium will resolve itself with the copper. Odinium is not as hardy as ich and really responds well to the copper. As long as you keep the level at .21 no higher no lower and keep the ammonia away they will recover. You do need to get the cromis out as they can be carriers. They need to be treated. Lastly 21 days is enough for odinium in your display. If you want to be safe go 28 days but 8 weeks is not necessary. Lastly any cycling issues in the display will resolve itself during the fallow period. Save your money on the rest kit.

 

[gnu]

Please don't dip them any more. You are really just stressing them out. Odinium will resolve itself with the copper. Odinium is not as hardy as ich and really responds well to the copper. As long as you keep the level at .21 no higher no lower and keep the ammonia away they will recover. You do need to get the cromis out as they can be carriers. They need to be treated. Lastly 21 days is enough for odinium in your display. If you want to be safe go 28 days but 8 weeks is not necessary. Lastly any cycling issues in the display will resolve itself during the fallow period. Save your money on the rest kit.

We are using coppersafe from mardel. they recomended 1.5 for the copper. the chart goes down to .25 which they say is nothing. Do I need a different copper?

 

[slapshot]

No that is good. Follow the directions. .21 is a ppm measurement I think.

 

[f3honda4me]

No that is good. Follow the directions. .21 is a ppm measurement I think.

Coppersafe and cupramine use PPM. So yes he's talking about 1.5ppm of coppersafe.


I think .30 is usually the "minimum" copper you need to treat stuff like ich and ood. I've never seen .21 anywhere, and that is a rather "odd" measurement (usually go in increments of tenths) I use .30 and use cupramine, which recommends no more than .50. I'd follow the instructions for the coppersafe and do the 1.5ppm. I typically try to get to that level over 2-3 days so as to not shock/stress the fish, but if you don't have that luxury then just do what you have to do.