Fish Hospital Beds Available?

[jeremyjoslin]

Thanks for the info. I was think more along 30-45 days. Is there a better method? How would you all handle the situation?

Last I read there is no "reef safe" treatment of cysts that would make this all a super easy process...

No there isn't any effective "reeef safe tretment" of which I am aware. Personally, I'd keep the rock ,corals and other live surfaces fish free for 72 days . Drying the tank and equipment thoroughly before reuse should destroy the cysts in there. Running fresh water in it overnight will do it too.

In your situation, large fish, heavily infected,I'd probably move the corals and other inverts and most of the live rock out of the tank if practical , leaving some for nitrifcation( ammonia control) and then drop the sg to 1.010. Measure carefully as a drop below 1.008 will harm the fish and more than 1.010 will be less lethal to the parasites..

This may suppress some of the biofilter bacteria but not all. Monitoring ammonia would be important along with some on hand ammonia detoxifier in case.. The hyposalinity should: give the fish some quick relief from parasites on their skin,less work to do to maintain their internal sg and a little more O2 in the water( it's a bit more soluble at lower sg.) The hypo saline condition will kill the free swimmers unless they are resistant strain.
I'd run the hypo for at least 4 weeks ,preferably 6 and then slowly raise the sg( .001 per day) to a normal reef tank level(1.026) . Sometimes thie ich pops back as the sg comes up,. If it does copper can be used at that point . I'd watch cht the fish for secondary bacterial infections or other potential killers like amyloodinium (velvet) or other diseases which require medication.

Thanks for the alternative course. Here's what I think you're saying mixed with what tanks I have...

- move all coral and most LR to a new tank which will sit fallow for 72 days.
- inverts can go to the new tank and still be considered fallow since they don't allow the parasite life cycle to perpetuate.
- leave some LR in current DT with all fish and some live sand.
- drop salinity in DT down as directed keeping an eye on nitrates.
- continue hyposalinity for 4 weeks and bring up slowly

What about the sand and LR in the DT that was treated with hyposalinity? That will need to be dried and cleaned? Does hyposalinity not kill cysts hiding in rock even after 4 weeks?

 

[block head]

These fish don't have any parasites on their skin. I'm only treating for them now being in carrier state.

which is it ?

"70% of my fish have died from marine ich" and " certainly still infected" LOL, you know your fish are sick. a 2 minute search will explain the long and costly way to treat them. " forum reasoning" usually goes against cheaping out or half hearted atempts to cure. your welcome to drive to brockport and use my cycled /fishless 90 tank.

 

[jeremyjoslin]

Which is it? Both. I used Google to tell me that.

- I bought a reputable fish from a reputable source
- Said fish was attacked despite several accepted methods of preventing such
- Attacks stopped with further methods
- Fish looked like he would recover
- Fish developed external signs of ich
- Fish died within 24 hours
- Most other fish in my tank also developed external signs of ich and succumbed within just a few days
- I did not have the time or resources to intervene in these 2-3 days (not your business why)
- I did not know fish were going to die instead of recover (I've seen other fish with external signs of ich recover after the initial stressor was relieved)
- Extensive reading taught be a few of my thoughts on the parasite were in error
- Thus, the fish who survived and look 100% healthy must, by definition, still be sick and in a carrier state

Hopefully others can learn from this progression and understand that just as I said above: Both.

Despite your unrequested agression, I'm thankful for your offer. But as you can see above, I was given some good advice on an alternative to my plan (which is what I requested in the OP). My 125g can be used as a hospital tank of sorts.

 

[tmz]

Jeremyjoselyn,
I don't think your request for help is unreasonable If some one was in a position to help working out expenses(water ,salt, meds ,etc) would follow, I think.


Anyway I'm glad you posted your experience as it can only encourage others to use quarantine which too many don't. Further most wouldn't admit a failure and be as open as you are with it for concern of being attacked as a bad fishkeeper..

Now for your questions.

move all coral and most LR to a new tank which will sit fallow for 72 days.
You noted a plan to treat the display. If that's the approach(copper or hypo) then yes removing live surfaces ,rock ,coral bases,.etc. and keeping them fishless for 72 days is recommended.
- inverts can go to the new tank and still be considered fallow since they don't allow the parasite life cycle to perpetuate.
Yes, the parasite needs a fish host to survive.
- leave some LR in current DT with all fish and some live sand.
- drop salinity in DT down as directed keeping an eye on nitrates.
Nitrates and nitrite don't matter for marine fish. Ammonia does and can kill them.
- continue hyposalinity for 4 weeks and bring up slowly
Yes, .001 pr day, no more than .002 to avoid stressing the fish. Topping off evaporation with salt water can be an easy way to do this.

What about the sand and LR in the DT that was treated with hyposalinity? That will need to be dried and cleaned? Does hyposalinity not kill cysts hiding in rock even after 4 weeks?

It should but may not if the strain is resistant which occurs sometimes but not often.

Reusing old sand is problematic for other reasons.Build up of organics , phosphate metals etc. It's virtually impossible to clean and I personally would not re use it.

If you're considering leaving all the rock in th display be aware that die off will occur( spnges, craline, critters,etc)which may spike ammonia which is why I'd only keep some or better if I culd I's use a seededpiece offilter material or spnge for a start up biofilter .

Generally , I go with copper or the tank transfer method for ich in qt but in this case with larger fish and apparently few corals ,it might be easier to just treat the whole tank with hypo and keep ammonia under control there with out disturbing the fish as much. Unlike with copper meds using an ammonia detoxifier if necesary is ok with hypo.

If your fish look ok now beware that the second infestation may be coming ( usually within a week or two) and it can be much worse. Each encysted parasite multiplies 100 to 200 fold and when it hatches it comes after the fish.