Fish QT question

Gymped

New member
I have recently just set up my brand new Red Sea Reefer 170 after about 3 years away from reefing. My apartment is small and I have no room for a QT tank but I only plan to have 1 sand sifter a pair of clowns and royal gramma without QT options what is best chance for success at preventing disease as my clownfish will be tank bred I feel that my best route for success would be to add the 2 cheaper fish (Gramma and sand sifter) after cycle and use that almost as my QT and wait a month or two before adding my clowns.
 
CB fish doesn't mean they will be disease free. Have you looked into Tank Transfer Method? Could be done in buckets if need be. Could do it in conjunction with formalin dips in between transfers and PP during to maximize treatments. It's still best to observe for 4 weeks after TTM is complete. You could skip that but it's a risk if you do.
 
Of 6 pairs of clowns I've had none have ever developed disease. Those fish aren't disease magnets. You can also see if your LFS will do an in store quarantine.


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Hmmm MichaelG's suggestion doesnt sound bad but hell with the fish only costing that little bit I doubt it.
 
Of 6 pairs of clowns I've had none have ever developed disease. Those fish aren't disease magnets. You can also see if your LFS will do an in store quarantine.


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Doesn't mean they can't carry it in to the DT for others to get... I would NEVER trust a in store QT by the LFS. All of their systems are hooked together, most people aren't educated enough to diagnose and treat diseases should they arise. Most disease start as behavior indicators and only show outward signs like spots when the disease already taken over. If you want your LFS to QT your fish then I would look for another hobby. Everyone acts like using a QT is impossible to do or too much hassle. You take your dog to the vet right? A QT is you being the vet for your fish
 
I don't disagree with you Dmorty217 but simply putting your fish in QT doesn't not align with the same approach as you being a vet for your fish. If someone can link me to a reasonable set up that I can use for my fish once my tank is fully cycled then I am open to suggestions but the information I have found hasn't opened many doors for me on this matter.
 
I don't disagree with you Dmorty217 but simply putting your fish in QT doesn't not align with the same approach as you being a vet for your fish. If someone can link me to a reasonable set up that I can use for my fish once my tank is fully cycled then I am open to suggestions but the information I have found hasn't opened many doors for me on this matter.

It doesn't?? Not sure how you can have any other position than that. You are the vet when it comes to this period. So you either QT and spend a lifetime in the hobby, or don't QT and you will be like everyone else that doesn't and end up leaving the hobby within a few years because the drain on your bank account won't be worth it. Im assuming you are new to this and this is why you feel the way you do. I mean unless you can name a vet that you can take your fish to, YOU are the only line of defense for disease, not a LFS. You're clearly going to do whatever you want but there is no substitute for QT
 
Dmorty217 I am willing to set up a QT but with my current space restrictions and the system ill have I need to find a reasonable way to do that.
 
Dmorty217 I am willing to set up a QT but with my current space restrictions and the system ill have I need to find a reasonable way to do that.

Two five gallon buckets, two heaters, air pump, air line tubing and a pack of cheap air stones.

Tank transfer method for Ich and praziPro for internal parasites. Couldn't be easier.
 
I've never used formalin. Reminds me of high school bio lab and preserved frogs!

What are you going after with it and what's your protocol?

It is protection from velvet, brook, and possibly uronema.


Originally Posted by ThRoewer:

If the goal is prevention without the fish showing actual symptoms I would only do one dip - the one at arrival.

It is done easily:

1. take the fish out of the bag and place them into a container. Take just as much water from the bag as is needed for the fish to swim. in the container. Ideally you use a graduated container or one you have metered out and marked yourself so you know which volume you have at a certain fill level.

2. drip acclimate the fish to your QT water until you reach the mark. With my standard container it's 1/2 gallon, but you may use whatever is required for your fish.

3. if not already in it, add an air bubbler or small pump and then add the appropriate dose of formalin (20 drops per gallon). Keep an eye on the fish during the bath and pull them if they show signs of distress.

4. after 30 to 50 minutes (I always go 45) move the fish over to the QT tank used for tank transfer.

Many do this at the end of the first TTM cycle but it is, IMO, better done before.
 
It's not and since using this with all new arrivals I haven't lost any fish to velvet. Also effective against flukes (not sure if that was mentioned or not)

Yes, flukes. But for that you must do a second turn a week from the first (eggs)
 
I'm not familiar with the life cycle of flukes, but if you do a formalin dip prior to beginning TT, will the transfers not get rid of the eggs?

They should as long as eggs are not on the host fish.

Life Cycle

At 78-79° F eggs hatch within 4-6 days. Once the egg hatches the oncomiridium (ciliated larva) finds a host and crawls on the body to their preferred site. Once they dig their hooks into the fish's flesh they feed on it for 17-19 days. At that point it has matured to an adult and it begins to lay eggs. The cycle starts over. At lower water temperatures, 34-36°F the timeline can extend to 5-6 months.
 
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