Fish tank top?

You could always try Lexan

Acrylic in general is a better choice vs Lexan for our applications..
Acrylic is less likely to scratch, more rigid, better light transmission, basically immune to yellowing over time,etc...
 
mcgyvr you are one of the most informative members on here but you have this one reversed? Acrylic is plexiglass, Lexan is a brand of Polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is twice as strong, doesn't yellow, warp, or scratch as easily. I have been using it on my 65 for three years with no issues.
 

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mcgyvr you are one of the most informative members on here but you have this one reversed? Acrylic is plexiglass, Lexan is a brand of Polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is twice as strong, doesn't yellow, warp, or scratch as easily. I have been using it on my 65 for three years with no issues.

This site has a good overview.
https://www.acplasticsinc.com/informationcenter/r/lexan-vs-acrylic

The biggest issue I ran in to is that one of the two sags over time. I cannot remember which, but from the above site I suspect it was the polycarb one.

Now, another big issue is that these plates are impossible to clean without scratching them and salt buildup will inevitably damage them. I only keep a plexi plate over my QT tank, but the loss in light intensity is way too much to ever do this over my display tank.
 
Plexiglass will sag in time. The top I have posted is 1/8” x 20” x 36” and has not sagged in three years and still Crystal clear. If you cut plexiglass and then polycarbonate you will learn very fast that the polycarbonate is much harder. I tried 1/4” x 12” x 12” plexiglass once for the top of my wetdry and it sagged.
 
mcgyvr you are one of the most informative members on here but you have this one reversed? Acrylic is plexiglass, Lexan is a brand of Polycarbonate. Polycarbonate is twice as strong, doesn't yellow, warp, or scratch as easily. I have been using it on my 65 for three years with no issues.

No..I don't have it reversed.
Check your facts ;)
 
Here is a picture I took this morning of my top on my plan table. You will notice after three years there is no yellowing and it is still clear. Which is amazing since I clean with paper towels and glass cleaner. Am I the only one in this post that has a acrylic or polycarbonate top on their tank? I also included a couple sumps I built over the years with acrylic except for the cover over the drip tray which is polycarbonate because it doesn't warp.
 

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Here is a picture I took this morning of my top on my plan table. You will notice after three years there is no yellowing and it is still clear. Which is amazing since I clean with paper towels and glass cleaner. Am I the only one in this post that has a acrylic or polycarbonate top on their tank? I also included a couple sumps I built over the years with acrylic except for the cover over the drip tray which is polycarbonate because it doesn't warp.

I should have been a bit more specific.. I'll clarify a bit..
I stated that "in general" acrylic is better for our applications because of the reasons I stated..
Thats not to say that polycarbonate cannot be used..
In applications where MH lighting may be used.. It can/will yellow from UV exposure..
It does scratch slightly easier due to its slightly "softer" properties (which is what helps it be far more impact resistant vs acrylic.. but we don't need bulletproof properties here)..
Its cost is also higher..

Cast acrylic is a much better choice for sump construction and basically all other things aquarium related..
With one potential exception....
When just a single thin sheet is going to be used it can be a good option for a tank cover due to its lower moisture absorption which can help prevent it bowing like unbraced acrylic will..
Adding some bracing to an acrylic sheet will also yield a good cover that won't warp and likely be cheaper,etc... too.

So yeah. For this specific application PC may be a good choice if the "cons" of it aren't a "con" to you...My generalizations were still correct and not reversed though ;)
 
My tank has never run better until I took that stupid top off.
PH went up, ease of access up, coral growth up, cleaning down, light longevity up.
Since the tank is peaceful and I have no jumpers, never again will I put on a top.
 
My tank has never run better until I took that stupid top off.
PH went up, ease of access up, coral growth up, cleaning down, light longevity up.
Since the tank is peaceful and I have no jumpers, never again will I put on a top.

That is certainly good info to put in a topic about adding a top..
It most certainly has potential "cons" to it..

Besides helping with evaporation, keeping jumpers in the tank and salt spray mitigation it serves no purpose and can certainly trap heat/prevent gas exchange,etc...
 
For jumpers, just use netting. I've lost more fish to jumping than anything else. Even with netting they managed to find little gaps. Wrasses are obvious notorious jumpers, but I once had to save my blue tang who got spooked and jumped behind the tank. It took me three minutes to find him and he looked awful for a couple of weeks, but has since fully recovered.
 
Glass/acrylic for jumpers or evaporation control?

Glass/Acrylic for evaporation/splash control.. (but remember it blocks gas exchange which can be quite important..(Carbon dioxide/Oxygen/Nitrogen,etc...)
Netting is all you need for jumper protection..
 
I always just use egg crate. Cheap doesn't block air flow.

I was wondering why no one suggested this. I want as much O2 exchange as possible, so I never use solid tops on salt water tanks.

Aside from restricting gas exchange, any solid covering - glass or plastic - will get salt creep, scratches, cracks/breakage and raises temps considerably. Egg crate is super easy to work with, does not block light, and keeps jumpers in the tank.
 
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