FlamesFans 90g DIY Thread
- Thread starter FlamesFan
- Start date
FlamesFan
New member
Yeh, the beer fridge and the TV pretty much sealed the deal. It's a great place to "hide".
So I should be able to keep the skimmer side baffle at 7" and then say drop the return side to 5-1/2 inches and then only the return side will drop in water level? That would be cool to maintain a consistent skimmer.
jcpatella
Premium Member
If you don't maintain a consistent skimmer level you're going to be constantly adjusting it the skimmer. The height of the baffles are up to you. The key is to keep the water level in the return zone lower than the baffle for the skimmer zone.
Here is a picture of my current sump. It's not great, but it shows how the water level stays consistent in the skimmer zone.
Actually, now that I'm looking at it, the levels are really close and the upright is blocking the view of the baffle. Either way, the water level is lower now in my fuge and return section, but the water level in the skimmer remains that height.
Here is a picture of my current sump. It's not great, but it shows how the water level stays consistent in the skimmer zone.
Actually, now that I'm looking at it, the levels are really close and the upright is blocking the view of the baffle. Either way, the water level is lower now in my fuge and return section, but the water level in the skimmer remains that height.
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FlamesFan
New member
yah thats exactally what I need then, lower the return section baffle. Thanks for the pic, im going to be goin down on friday to buy my acrylic and hope to have some sump creation pics up possibly sunday. I'll have some RO/DI installation pics up soon too I just gotta get around to going down to home depot for some wall anchors.
FlamesFan
New member
Ok as promised I installed my RO/DI unit tonight from AquaFX, and I took some pics to show fellow RC'ers how easy it was to install an RO/DI unit to an existing laundry room setup!
Ok so first here is the official unit ontop of my washing machine. Specs for it can be found HERE
Ok so the first step was to purchase a Y connection in order to be able to quickly turn the RO/DI unit on without having to change hoses manually. This brass connector cost about 5 bucks. There are also plastic type Y connectors for half the price, but since the water tap is ALWAYS ON I wouldn't put my flood insurance on the line to save a couple bucks. Make sure it has o-rings in it or your gonna have leaks all over.
Ok the next step was to buy some high quality wall anchors suitable for heavy weight since the RO/DI unit fills with water and becomes fairly heavy. I purchased these guys here which are rated for up to 75 pounds. They are made of metal and rotate sideways when the screw is inserted and sit flat against the back side of the drywall. Another type of anchor to use would be like a butterfly anchor. I wouldn't recommend a straight plastic anchor that doesn't clamp onto the wall.
Next I marked the wall where the anchor should go. Something that I did that I would recommend is make sure that one scew lands on a stud. Stud's are typically 16" on center, so if you have a stud finder you should be able to find a convenient stud to use for one of the two screws. If not, 2 wall anchors will work fine. Then I drilled in the anchor and then drilled the screw into the anchor.
Next I ran my drain line from the RO/DI unit which gets rid of the waste water. At this point some people choose to re-use their drain water in various things (watering plants), but I have no use for it so down the pipe it goes. ALL washing machines have a drain pipe, so if you can't see yours at first....... look harder, its there.
YAY! Im all done. The feed line is on the right, the RO/DI water for my aquarium comes out of the left.
Ok honestly it took me longer to resize these images and type up this experience. It's really really simple and anyone should be able to do it. I kinda cheated and used a drill to put my anchors in just cause im lazy
but it's easy enough with a screw driver too.
Like always any questions are welcome just lemme know!
Ok so first here is the official unit ontop of my washing machine. Specs for it can be found HERE
Ok so the first step was to purchase a Y connection in order to be able to quickly turn the RO/DI unit on without having to change hoses manually. This brass connector cost about 5 bucks. There are also plastic type Y connectors for half the price, but since the water tap is ALWAYS ON I wouldn't put my flood insurance on the line to save a couple bucks. Make sure it has o-rings in it or your gonna have leaks all over.
Ok the next step was to buy some high quality wall anchors suitable for heavy weight since the RO/DI unit fills with water and becomes fairly heavy. I purchased these guys here which are rated for up to 75 pounds. They are made of metal and rotate sideways when the screw is inserted and sit flat against the back side of the drywall. Another type of anchor to use would be like a butterfly anchor. I wouldn't recommend a straight plastic anchor that doesn't clamp onto the wall.
Next I marked the wall where the anchor should go. Something that I did that I would recommend is make sure that one scew lands on a stud. Stud's are typically 16" on center, so if you have a stud finder you should be able to find a convenient stud to use for one of the two screws. If not, 2 wall anchors will work fine. Then I drilled in the anchor and then drilled the screw into the anchor.
Next I ran my drain line from the RO/DI unit which gets rid of the waste water. At this point some people choose to re-use their drain water in various things (watering plants), but I have no use for it so down the pipe it goes. ALL washing machines have a drain pipe, so if you can't see yours at first....... look harder, its there.
YAY! Im all done. The feed line is on the right, the RO/DI water for my aquarium comes out of the left.
Ok honestly it took me longer to resize these images and type up this experience. It's really really simple and anyone should be able to do it. I kinda cheated and used a drill to put my anchors in just cause im lazy
but it's easy enough with a screw driver too.Like always any questions are welcome just lemme know!
hulley
New member
I did very much the same thing in my laundry room except I took a piece of 1x6 and screwd it to the wall studs for added strength then routered the edges and painted the 1x6 the same color as the wall to blend in! I've got the water filling a 32g container. Your build looks great BTW!
FlamesFan
New member
Ok, Ok I've been really busy lately and have done a lot of work but haven't had much time to upload the pics and update this thread. Im not even sure if anyone is still interested in it but oh well.
So I completed 2 things, both the overflow and the sump/refugium and i'll update with pics and info in the next couple posts.
Bulkheads were inserted in and I decided to silicone them in using GE type I non wildew resistant type that everyone recommended in the DIY forum here on RC
Next I cut a 3 pieces for acrylic for the overflow inside the tank. Using Weldon #4 I seemed the sections together making a 17" overflow.
Next I painted the inside of the overflow black using Krylon epoxy spray paint also recommened in the DIY forum for painting pluming and stuff inside tanks. I then drilled each side for a 1" bulkhead which will be run off a T from a single return line hidden inside the overflow. (remember I have 1 return and 2 drain lines utilizing the herbie overflow method)
When installing the overflow into the tank I made sure to sand the edge and a bout 1/2" of the surface of the overflow to roughen it up to allow the silicone to create a nice bond between the acrylic and the glass.
So I completed 2 things, both the overflow and the sump/refugium and i'll update with pics and info in the next couple posts.
Bulkheads were inserted in and I decided to silicone them in using GE type I non wildew resistant type that everyone recommended in the DIY forum here on RC
Next I cut a 3 pieces for acrylic for the overflow inside the tank. Using Weldon #4 I seemed the sections together making a 17" overflow.
Next I painted the inside of the overflow black using Krylon epoxy spray paint also recommened in the DIY forum for painting pluming and stuff inside tanks. I then drilled each side for a 1" bulkhead which will be run off a T from a single return line hidden inside the overflow. (remember I have 1 return and 2 drain lines utilizing the herbie overflow method)
When installing the overflow into the tank I made sure to sand the edge and a bout 1/2" of the surface of the overflow to roughen it up to allow the silicone to create a nice bond between the acrylic and the glass.
Kentanner11
New member
Cant wait! Nice overflow, when are you going to cut teeth in it?
FlamesFan
New member
I coudlnt get my jig to cut even nice teeth properly 
dunno why but it would do great on wood but then just do a nasty job on the acrylic. I've decided to go the easy way and buy some of the lighting egg crate stuff and seem a row of it to the top. Gonna do the same in the fuge. Unless anyone else has a better suggestion?
dunno why but it would do great on wood but then just do a nasty job on the acrylic. I've decided to go the easy way and buy some of the lighting egg crate stuff and seem a row of it to the top. Gonna do the same in the fuge. Unless anyone else has a better suggestion?Zuluman100
Premium Member
Yeah, overflow would do better with teeth.
Also, I only use paint on the outside of the tank. With paint in the overflow you'll have water contact. Not 100% sure about that. I would have used black acrylic instead of clear with paint.
Also, I only use paint on the outside of the tank. With paint in the overflow you'll have water contact. Not 100% sure about that. I would have used black acrylic instead of clear with paint.
Zuluman100
Premium Member
Does drilling holes not work instead of cutting teeth?
FlamesFan
New member
only reason I used clear acrylic is it was leftovers from a 4x8 sheet I used for my sump. The paint I used is also used by others to paint pipe thats inside water.
Maybe I could have drilled holes, but what is the benefits of cutting teeth over using egg crate? both do the same thing no?
Maybe I could have drilled holes, but what is the benefits of cutting teeth over using egg crate? both do the same thing no?
Kentanner11
New member
The paint is fine to use inside the tank. I think that teeth would cosmetically look better than egg crate, but not sure.
Kentanner11
New member
true
FlamesFan
New member
Ok so I got around to uploading all the pictures for the sump/refugium build so here goes!.
Picked up a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" acrylic.
Cut it all to the right size. The total sump size came in at 36"x16" and 16" deep. I use a jig to cross cut which eliminates kickbacks and binding from pushing long pieces through.
Using Weldon #4 I seamed all the outside pieces onto the bottom. I used basic quick clamps and boards to support the sides square.
Next it was time to install the baffles. after setting the first one in I used 1" blocks I cut on the table saw to space the next baffles and lift the middle one. I was worried about seaming inside pieces but it turned out to be easier than the others.
Next I set the refugium area in place and seamed it in.
Here's the end product. I drilled the hole that will go to my return pump (Reeflo Snapper). It's based off of a melev design. I still need to make a euro brace to go around the top I just havent had time to get into the shop and setup the router and template.
The entire sump can hold just under 40 gallons and will contain around 25 gallons at any given time. 15 gallons will be enough to room incase the return pump fails and the overflow and pipes drain into the sump.
Picked up a 4x8 sheet of 1/4" acrylic.
Cut it all to the right size. The total sump size came in at 36"x16" and 16" deep. I use a jig to cross cut which eliminates kickbacks and binding from pushing long pieces through.
Using Weldon #4 I seamed all the outside pieces onto the bottom. I used basic quick clamps and boards to support the sides square.
Next it was time to install the baffles. after setting the first one in I used 1" blocks I cut on the table saw to space the next baffles and lift the middle one. I was worried about seaming inside pieces but it turned out to be easier than the others.
Next I set the refugium area in place and seamed it in.
Here's the end product. I drilled the hole that will go to my return pump (Reeflo Snapper). It's based off of a melev design. I still need to make a euro brace to go around the top I just havent had time to get into the shop and setup the router and template.
The entire sump can hold just under 40 gallons and will contain around 25 gallons at any given time. 15 gallons will be enough to room incase the return pump fails and the overflow and pipes drain into the sump.
