float switch stuck

I didn't mean to confuse the whole thread but this is how it works The float in the bucket operates the RO only(maintaining only the bucket level)The float switch in the sump operates a ehiem pump in the bucket( for sump demand). Another float switch is in the bucket. when the level drops below that it diables the other float(sump) switch. Its just a precaution. But the way the JBJ ATO could be used is one float switch for max. sump level and one for Min. level. Hope that helped any confusion.
Tom
 
>>I didn't mean to confuse the whole thread<<

I talked with my sump builder today and I am back peddling to say "who knows what is right" if there is a right.

I have a manual float for my water change RO bucket. I have used this for maybe a year of heavy use and no problems.

I had copied the manual float in the bucket for my temporary sump in a bucket and the same vendor's manual float has stuck. So I think that the manual float seems to possibly get stuck from the "salt in the water".

That said, when originally reading about my sump builder's setup for ATO, I decided to pay a premium (in my opinion), for his advice and setup.

I got off the phone today with my sump builder and here is his recommended setup for the sump he is building.

He is installing a bracket to make the float adjustable, so you can precisely adjust the float to the exact level. (That part seems reasonable). He is also recommending 2 solenoids. I think you would call this "in series".

He suggested that I could install another float in the sump that would have another solenoid directly hooked up to the RO/DI feed. That I did not do.

He also recommended a water alarm that he says I can purchase from Home Depot. This I will do.

I also passed him the idea from forum member on a timer for his feedback. He suggests that once a day for 30 minutes is probably to long and could lead to overflow problems. He said he recommends setting the timer for several times a day with the timer set for 5 minutes each time.

So at this point, I really do not know the best approach or one that I even feel comfortable with.

I think for me, using the timer idea from the forum member is probably what will let me sleep. However, I can't believe that with all of the technology available that I don't have an idea that gives me more comfort.

So I am not not going to say what is better for anyone else. Just what I am going through.

Hope this helps.
 
Pretty much what I do except the alarm. I think its important to know the difference between float and float switch. I don't have an alarm but there is a drain in the floor of my reef room(basement)so I guess a never worry about spills. Never had any yet but still never worry.
Tom
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11821398#post11821398 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by iamwhatiam52
Mine sticka too.
How do you put a second switch in? Water just drips out around the float, so how do you run the water from the first switch to the second one?
Click to expand...

My dual float switch bracket I made. You can see how one is slightly higher than the other in case the main one (bottom Switch) sticks.

These float switches are from Aquahub and have yet to fail me.

Hammerhead013Medium.jpg
 
Psychographic,

I like your float switch bracket. I will be curious to see what my sump builder is going to give me.
 
yeah thats pretty impressive. I made one with an old mag float and i used the formable plastic from aquahut to make the second one. I did the same thing thou, second switch a little higher. hopefully it will be enough
 
Haven't had one stick,but peace of mind knowing its there.I do test it from time to time.
Water level hasn't reached that level.
I'm using similar float set up for my RO/DI storage and auto water changer.
 
Water makeup

Water makeup

I use a Reefiller pump and simple timer like MGNY wrote and it hasn't failed for over a year. Actually Mike was the one who told me about it which I believe he got from Randy Holmes Farley. It's very simple and only requires minor adjustment once in awhile.It's simple and it works. The timer turns the pump on and off and the pump only pumps a small amount of water at a time they are different model with different pumping capacities. The one I'm using does about 3.5 gals a day. Not much margin for error.
 
My system is foolproof! My wife walks in with a 3 gallon water can fills the sump and walks back out! Never had a spill once!
 
Trying again.

Sump / Refugium delivered without Float setup. (Very frustrating).

Builder now will install 2 electronic Float switches, 2 solenoids and 2 adjustable brackets.

Seems that his manual floats are too large for the sump area.

Does anyone see a problem with this setup?

Install 2 unique float setups. One higher than the 2nd. The higher one will be the backup unit and will be installed at a higher point. Also this will be the solenoid will be the first unit to the RO/DI. Since this is the backup unit, it will always be on (allowing water), (if the 2nd main unit is working). In an emergency, this should shut off, if the 2nd Float is on and the first unit stops working.


The 2nd unit, will be the primary one and will be set in a lower position. This will be the unit that goes on and off on a daily basis. The solenoid will be installed after the 1st unit's Solenoid on the RO/DI tubing.

PS. I checked into the other recommended ATO. The problem, is that unit is not recommended to go from a RO/DI unit, but from a bucket. I don't have room for a bucket. However, the bells and whistles on this unit are very cool.

I will end up using a timer to go off several times a day for 5 or 10 minutes.
 
The problem with running it right from the RO unit is that it turns on and off every time you need just a little water. This is not good for water quality. the water that comes out of the filter right after it turns on is not as pure as it is a few seconds later. So this is not optimal.

The other option is to wire 2 float switches differently. put one switch at the level where you want the water to turn on, and one where you want the water to turn off(say an inch higher). Then the solenoid valve will open and not close until it adds an inch of water. You could still add a 3rd switch as a safety in case the top switch gets stuck.
 
Scott,

I did return an ATO from SpectraPure that had that 1 inch leeway, where it would have to go down for 1 inch before turning on. However, I returned that unit, because I did not like the suction cups. LifeReef, seemed to really tout his model with an adjustable bracket. That's the part that I liked.

However, the unit mentioned in this thread had great features (a water alarm, built in timer, etc.).

So using your technique for an on an off seems reasonable, if that feature is not in the model that I am using. However, if I use a timer, to go off a couple of times a day, I think I would bypass that problem. Is that correct?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

K
Radion time help. (Long post)
Replies
2
Views
120
kj swans
K
R
DIY AI-coded ESP32 based aquarium controller
Replies
0
Views
1K
ronnyking
R
sickman
Juwel Lido 200 - really reef tank ready all in one? Really Really?
2
Replies
39
Views
822
Reefing102
Reefing102
K
Mandarin acting strange
Replies
4
Views
1K
OrionN
OrionN
rrrrob
Thoughts on Purigen?
Replies
11
Views
713
alejandrodia
A
Back
Top