dipan
Member
Sorry this may be a stupid question, but are the mechanical GHL float switches designed to be submerged in saltwater?
Reason I ask is I have had one in my sump for maybe 6 months or so. Its original purpose was to be an auto top off, but I am just now getting around to setting it up. I did test it when I placed it in service and it worked fine in Profilux Control. It cycled from - to X appropriately.
It is now locked on X. I have noticed a bit of greenish ?corrosion where the wires enter the top of the assembly. There is some heat shrink on the wires just above the entry point, but there is no discernible sealant where the wires go in.
I do plan on using automatic water changes, but if the sensor is prone to failing in the "X" on position, this would be problematic. I was also planning on using a third float for sump flooding detection, so three floats on a single assembly. I do have a total of three floats already, but have not placed the other two in service.
Should I seal where the wires go in with some low viscosity silicone? I think the reed valve in the stem should be safe from the silicone as it should be sealed independently.
I have seen other mechanical float valves available that have a clear vinyl tube siliconed to the top of the float valve to seal the wire entry point from water intrusion. Actually, I have a top off system from autotopoff.com that has this clear tube siliconed onto the low valve. I am planning to use this to automatically fill my RO/DI reservoir.
I do need to have some certainty about the reliability of the system before putting it into play. I don't want to have any [more] accidental floods! I have had some floods, but not as the result of the Profilux ... human error forgetting to turn off the top off manually
Is the optical water sensor better sealed from water intrusion? Perhaps that is a better way to go, but much more expensive.
Reason I ask is I have had one in my sump for maybe 6 months or so. Its original purpose was to be an auto top off, but I am just now getting around to setting it up. I did test it when I placed it in service and it worked fine in Profilux Control. It cycled from - to X appropriately.
It is now locked on X. I have noticed a bit of greenish ?corrosion where the wires enter the top of the assembly. There is some heat shrink on the wires just above the entry point, but there is no discernible sealant where the wires go in.
I do plan on using automatic water changes, but if the sensor is prone to failing in the "X" on position, this would be problematic. I was also planning on using a third float for sump flooding detection, so three floats on a single assembly. I do have a total of three floats already, but have not placed the other two in service.
Should I seal where the wires go in with some low viscosity silicone? I think the reed valve in the stem should be safe from the silicone as it should be sealed independently.
I have seen other mechanical float valves available that have a clear vinyl tube siliconed to the top of the float valve to seal the wire entry point from water intrusion. Actually, I have a top off system from autotopoff.com that has this clear tube siliconed onto the low valve. I am planning to use this to automatically fill my RO/DI reservoir.
I do need to have some certainty about the reliability of the system before putting it into play. I don't want to have any [more] accidental floods! I have had some floods, but not as the result of the Profilux ... human error forgetting to turn off the top off manually
Is the optical water sensor better sealed from water intrusion? Perhaps that is a better way to go, but much more expensive.