Float valve/RODI directly into sump safe?

The WC clowns are very suceptible to broklynella (sp?), maybe her parms were just more stable than yours

Juan, yea, those would have helped, since I also completely disagree that all that is needed for an ATO is a dosing pump, for much the same reasons that Thales posted. But your post as a "joke post", yea.. you are dead on there :)
 
stable? eh, I dunno. It's just weird I went through 6 clowns in like 4 months and she only raised 2 and both are happy till today.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9720326#post9720326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sparkss
The WC clowns are very suceptible to broklynella (sp?), maybe her parms were just more stable than yours

Juan, yea, those would have helped, since I also completely disagree that all that is needed for an ATO is a dosing pump, for much the same reasons that Thales posted. But your post as a "joke post", yea.. you are dead on there :)

Thanks for understanding. Everyone has their favorite method, kind of like everyone has their favorite skimmer or favorite coral. I didn't mean to imply the other ways are wrong or bad, just that I'm very happy with mine. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9718296#post9718296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dannieboiz
I have a confession to make:

For the past year or two I thought I was using RODI water for my tank. Until last week when I was going to replace my filters, I was up for a suprise.

I had my RODI unit hooked up incorrectly :eek2:

It was hooked up in a way that I was only filtering my water through the last membrane and the DI.

Never had an algae bloom problem. Water was always clear and suprising, things grew faster in my tank than it did in other tanks using RODI.

Would I do it again? Probably not, but it shows that it won't kill anything either.

However, I wasn't able to keep any clowns. They all seems to die after month or two.

So you had your filter hooked up so that is bypassed the sedimant and the carbon, and went strait to the membrane? If so, you membrane is most likely shot and the carbon is there to protect the membrane from things like clorine that destroy it. That is there sole purpose actually. I would replace the membrane as it is probably shot.

Thales. TDS only measures the solids in the water. Not all the nasties are solids. PO4 for example. The TDS is only a rough measurement and water with low TDS could still be pretty poor water. If your going to run DI only, make sure you are not running mixed resins. That way you can recharge them. I get about 100 -200 gal of water in my DI only unit before I need to recharge it. Tap TDS is 35 here. That can get expensive using mixed resings that you need to buy all the time. If I run a carbon block before it, I can get a little more.
 
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