Floor Joist is starting cracking under tank!
- Thread starter mnestroy
- Start date
flapjack1439
New member
I have to go along with nate, water and plywood don't mix. Everything on that joist is laminated and water can cause it to delaminate, losing it's strength. The water must have been there for a while.
Nate, I thought the webbing in those weren't butt jointed but overlapping 2 layers.
Nate, I thought the webbing in those weren't butt jointed but overlapping 2 layers.
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mnestroy
Active member
Well I'm getting some mixed advice from other sources. My father is an experienced handyman, and I have spoken to the head of employer's building services, both I feel are very knowledgeable. With that said they have been telling me that this is not a huge issue, and can be easily repaired.
They think simply utilizing a jack for extra support and repairing the joist would be fine.
So I am torn. I realize going with a certified professional no matter how little the damage, they will most likely want to take the most extensive route for repairs?? Not to say that they are scamming me, but it is in their nature and their own liability on the line for it not failing in the future.
I am a new home owner, so I guess do I just call up a random # in the phone book and are they willing to give free quotes?
Also I do now understand that placing the tank in the dead center of just one joist is its weakest point. I would also like to incorporate into my repairs any modifications that will allow me to return my 40breeder to that exact spot, and also allow me to place a 90-150 in its place (if i ever upgrade)
I have a lot of work ahead of me. I have several sections of the subfloor that need to be replaced, due to water damage and urine damage. Then I need to level the entire room/hallway (with leveling cement, so I can lay wood flooring) and then lay down fiberock/durarock, or something similar (my kitchen & bathroom have this installed, so I will need to raise the other rooms up to this height, plus i figured this will help level things out,prevent water damage,mold, etc)
They think simply utilizing a jack for extra support and repairing the joist would be fine.
So I am torn. I realize going with a certified professional no matter how little the damage, they will most likely want to take the most extensive route for repairs?? Not to say that they are scamming me, but it is in their nature and their own liability on the line for it not failing in the future.
I am a new home owner, so I guess do I just call up a random # in the phone book and are they willing to give free quotes?
Also I do now understand that placing the tank in the dead center of just one joist is its weakest point. I would also like to incorporate into my repairs any modifications that will allow me to return my 40breeder to that exact spot, and also allow me to place a 90-150 in its place (if i ever upgrade)
I have a lot of work ahead of me. I have several sections of the subfloor that need to be replaced, due to water damage and urine damage. Then I need to level the entire room/hallway (with leveling cement, so I can lay wood flooring) and then lay down fiberock/durarock, or something similar (my kitchen & bathroom have this installed, so I will need to raise the other rooms up to this height, plus i figured this will help level things out,prevent water damage,mold, etc)
flapjack1439
New member
Your Father is right. It's nothing to freak out about.
If it was my house, I'd repair it and also sneak another joist in next to it to spread the load. While your at it double up any joist where you might put a big load.
9 out of 10 times....... Dads are right.
If it was my house, I'd repair it and also sneak another joist in next to it to spread the load. While your at it double up any joist where you might put a big load.
9 out of 10 times....... Dads are right.
besides the tank, have you located the source where the water actually is coming in? I can't see cat urine doing this by itself.
Your best bet would be to rip all the plywood off the joists and install new 3/4 plywood. expensive, yes, difficult, yes. You will be able to fix those bad joist easier. If the plywood isn't dried, you will be throwing your money away covering it up. It's bad as bad can be but it is fixable.
Your best bet would be to rip all the plywood off the joists and install new 3/4 plywood. expensive, yes, difficult, yes. You will be able to fix those bad joist easier. If the plywood isn't dried, you will be throwing your money away covering it up. It's bad as bad can be but it is fixable.
mnestroy
Active member
Okay, I hope this thread doesn't get to off topic, but would it be okay if i ask some basic questions about this project? I see many of you have Carpenter in your occupation field.
1. How do I remove the OSB subfloor, I mean the walls/studs are sitting on top of the subfloor are they not? So I would assume its not as simple as just pulling it up... i think i'd have to cut a close to wall as possible and maybe put new cross beams in to support where the new OSB would line up Is OSB just as good as plywood? Should the area where my fishtank is going to be, should I paint it with Kilz to seal the wood from moistore?
2. The Kitchen, Bathroom already were upgraded to Pergo, howerver its being taken out to match the entire area... they used a durarock, or one of those other 1/4" under layment thingies... I was going to use this to get all areas to the same level and provide water gaurd.
3. What is the trick to leveling wood?
4. My crawlspace I think is extremely damp... can I put a dehumidifier in there? my backyard has been flooded for 4months, my sump kicks on every 10minutes... gravel is dry but dirt is definately moist and u can feel it in the air... I've tried closing vent, opening vents... dont seem to matter.
I have a ton more questions.
If somebody thinks I should take these questions off line pleases le t me know
Thanks!
1. How do I remove the OSB subfloor, I mean the walls/studs are sitting on top of the subfloor are they not? So I would assume its not as simple as just pulling it up... i think i'd have to cut a close to wall as possible and maybe put new cross beams in to support where the new OSB would line up Is OSB just as good as plywood? Should the area where my fishtank is going to be, should I paint it with Kilz to seal the wood from moistore?
2. The Kitchen, Bathroom already were upgraded to Pergo, howerver its being taken out to match the entire area... they used a durarock, or one of those other 1/4" under layment thingies... I was going to use this to get all areas to the same level and provide water gaurd.
3. What is the trick to leveling wood?
4. My crawlspace I think is extremely damp... can I put a dehumidifier in there? my backyard has been flooded for 4months, my sump kicks on every 10minutes... gravel is dry but dirt is definately moist and u can feel it in the air... I've tried closing vent, opening vents... dont seem to matter.
I have a ton more questions.
If somebody thinks I should take these questions off line pleases le t me know
Thanks!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9471155#post9471155 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mnestroy
Okay, I hope this thread doesn't get to off topic, but would it be okay if i ask some basic questions about this project? I see many of you have Carpenter in your occupation field.
1. How do I remove the OSB subfloor, I mean the walls/studs are sitting on top of the subfloor are they not? So I would assume its not as simple as just pulling it up... i think i'd have to cut a close to wall as possible and maybe put new cross beams in to support where the new OSB would line up Is OSB just as good as plywood? Should the area where my fishtank is going to be, should I paint it with Kilz to seal the wood from moistore?
2. The Kitchen, Bathroom already were upgraded to Pergo, howerver its being taken out to match the entire area... they used a durarock, or one of those other 1/4" under layment thingies... I was going to use this to get all areas to the same level and provide water gaurd.
3. What is the trick to leveling wood?
4. My crawlspace I think is extremely damp... can I put a dehumidifier in there? my backyard has been flooded for 4months, my sump kicks on every 10minutes... gravel is dry but dirt is definately moist and u can feel it in the air... I've tried closing vent, opening vents... dont seem to matter.
I have a ton more questions.
If somebody thinks I should take these questions off line pleases le t me know
Thanks!
I can answer any questions you have thru email or pm if you like.
Basically you can cut the floor where it meets the wall. You can do it in sections. One thing you will add is a nailer at that point since the osb was nailed on the rim joist of the house while being built. It's a little more involved since you have tgi joists and not 2x lumber. You may be able to tear out the bad stuff and piece in new. Plywood is stronger than osb and more expensive. You should be able to see the seams on the floor and can make the determination where to stop and start.
Moisture in the crawl is a pain. You can use a dehumidifier and a fan to circulate. The water table in your area will affect how much water actually soaks into the soil. If you have a low yard, that will contribute to this. We'll talk some more later.
you can email me directly at jnln4005@sbcglobal.net
Jeff
BrokenReefer
New member
OSB sucks. That's all I have to contribute to this thread right now - lol. Sorry!!
mnestroy
Active member
The repairs have started!
As you can see from the photos there is a ton of work involved, it's not rocket science, but my father and I have put 7hrs so far into this project , and a lot more to come. (Its amazing how strong liquid nail and 4inch nails every 3inches is.. even 30yrs later)
Here is what we did, because we had to remove the subflor, and the wall sits on top of the flooring we had to cut as close as we could to the wall, but in order to put new subfloor down we had to create a new joist, so we could nail the new floor down to something (which can be seen in the photo, the beam closest to the wall) This will also give extra support.
To repair the broken I-Joist we put a 2x10 on each side of the I-Joist.
In addition the next joist over, that was fine, we put a 2x10 on the side too (just 1 side, not both)
One last messure we will space a few 4x4s along the joist, going vertically and create a foundation in the gravel either out of concrete or a few bricks.
We are going way overkill.. I prob could park a car on this 1 joist now... So if anyone has a 400 gallon tank they want to give me, shoot me a PM, hehe
Heres some pics, please whatever you do dont tell me we are doing everything the wrong way, ehhe
As you can see from the photos there is a ton of work involved, it's not rocket science, but my father and I have put 7hrs so far into this project , and a lot more to come. (Its amazing how strong liquid nail and 4inch nails every 3inches is.. even 30yrs later)
Here is what we did, because we had to remove the subflor, and the wall sits on top of the flooring we had to cut as close as we could to the wall, but in order to put new subfloor down we had to create a new joist, so we could nail the new floor down to something (which can be seen in the photo, the beam closest to the wall) This will also give extra support.
To repair the broken I-Joist we put a 2x10 on each side of the I-Joist.
In addition the next joist over, that was fine, we put a 2x10 on the side too (just 1 side, not both)
One last messure we will space a few 4x4s along the joist, going vertically and create a foundation in the gravel either out of concrete or a few bricks.
We are going way overkill.. I prob could park a car on this 1 joist now... So if anyone has a 400 gallon tank they want to give me, shoot me a PM, hehe
Heres some pics, please whatever you do dont tell me we are doing everything the wrong way, ehhe
Hey Mike,
Never a fun job doing what you are doing. I see you have one 2x10 bearing on the sill plate. It would have been better to have both of them bearing on it, looking at the one that is a little short. You can add some bridging pieces from the new joist to the ones that are supporting the floor at the wall. This will keep those from moving or twisting out of place. It would also be best to cut the osb to the center of the tgi to the right so the new sheating is nailed center on that.
Never a fun job doing what you are doing. I see you have one 2x10 bearing on the sill plate. It would have been better to have both of them bearing on it, looking at the one that is a little short. You can add some bridging pieces from the new joist to the ones that are supporting the floor at the wall. This will keep those from moving or twisting out of place. It would also be best to cut the osb to the center of the tgi to the right so the new sheating is nailed center on that.
