Floor joist opinions

F

funnyguyMI

New member
I'm moving to a new house and moving my 270g tank with me. It's a standard 6'l x 3'w x 2't.

I'm looking for opinions on the floor joists below where the tank will go. Here are a couple pictures of the current joists, with the approximate tank location in red lines. The tank will span a total of 4 joists, which will run parallel to the length of the tank. It will span (2) single joists and (1) double joist and also, one side of the tank will be close (1-2' away) to the beam.

I'm figuring I will double up the one single joist furthest from the framed wall in the pictures (the joist running under the front of the tank). Will that be enough? Is it overkill?

Thanks for the opinions! :)

EDIT: The flooring where the tank will go is a hardwood floor (oak), if that matters.

joists2_zps22d5d438.jpg


joists1_zpscbe2bbea.jpg
 
How old is the house?
Are you planning on developing the basement? Do you know how you want to? It would be more use to build a wall under that part of the floor rather than just add another beam.
 
In the first picture it looks like there is a doorway to the right. If you were able to build a wall pepindicular to the floor joists, it would reduce the span quite a bit. It all depends on your future for the basement. If it is going to remain unfinished, I would build two short walls perpendicular to the floor joists, dividing the span into thirds. You could hide the walls with some built in shelving. If the room must remain open, I would suggest using LVL instead of dimensional lumber. Is a lot stronger and straighter. The electrical is the issue. If you can find the end of the line and retread the line it's ok, just be sure you drill the new floor joist. Do not notch the beam. A notched 2x10 becomes a 2x4 with a deep notch.
 
The house was built in '02.

I was planning on leaving that space open...

Although, a small support wall for the other end of the tank might make a good little spot for a dart board..

Thanks for the tip on notching the board. That was exactly what my plan was. The electrical doesn't run much further, so disconnecting it and running it through a new, drilled beam is not a problem.
 
So, if I built a small wall perpendicular to the joists, under the other edge of the tank, I may not need to double up that joist?

Maybe frame the wall 12" on center for some extra support?
 
Make sure and try to get full bearing at both ends when you double up floor joist and nail both joist together really well. I would also run a few 2x10 blocks from doubled joist back to next joist beside them as this will help too. It not just the weight short term but keeping area from sagging long term.

Good Luck!
 
I would split the span as much as possible. No need for 12" on center wall. Just take some osb or plywood (dart stopper) and sheet the wall. Screw it every 8 inches along the studs to give the wall lateral support. Use pressure treated for the base plate. Make sure the wall fits tight in place (no gap). Building it in place would be best for the tightest fit. Line up the studs with the floor joists for best load transfer. A 2x6 wall would further disperse the load on the concrete floor. Remember there is probably no footing under wher you plan tha add a load bearing wall. Fundamentally that is wrong, but you should be fine unless you plan to upgrade. Lol.
 
Rather than take the advice of people here on RC with unknown experience & qualifications, pay for a qualified structural engineer to evaluate the capacity of the joists. Most everyone here means well, but if they're wrong, they just log out and let you mop up the basement and rebuild your living room floor.
 
I would agree with Sleepdoc...........hire a structural engineer to advice.

That's 3000+ pounds sitting on 3 joists.....prob another 200 pound for your sump. Because you're going lengthwise and not point perpendicular, its all about point load and not a question of whether or not the joists are able to support it.

Good luck.
 
Easiest thing to to is if u don't use the base is order 2 joist (jack) support and put it in but remember it sits on ur floor to the joist so u will have like 2 beam like thing from top to bottom
 
discus510 said:
Easiest thing to to is if u don't use the base is order 2 joist (jack) support and put it in but remember it sits on ur floor to the joist so u will have like 2 beam like thing from top to bottom
Click to expand...

That is what I would do. I would put 2 jacks (cheap and quick) on where the corners of the tank will sit.. If you are not going to do much with the basement they will not be in the way much and will add a lot of stability to the setup.
 
and this is where i come in (sleepy doc), in order to transfer weight and disperse corectly you must sister those joists. but they must run the full length of the others from header to header. dont use cheap pine either it can be rough cut oak to save some money the dimensions of that is a a true 2x whichever x length. you other option is 2 microlam beams ( more money ) but the best yet. building upright walls will be more money vs theese two options and then youll have an odd placed wall that cost more to only serve as a dart board hanger lol post ?s here so others can learn as well im sure this a common question
 
PS you may not have any intentions with your basement now but if your anything like me you could potentialy change that thought later, and 2 lolly combs in the middle of your kids play room would be ..... um different:headwally:
 
sleepydoc said:
Rather than take the advice of people here on RC with unknown experience & qualifications, pay for a qualified structural engineer to evaluate the capacity of the joists. Most everyone here means well, but if they're wrong, they just log out and let you mop up the basement and rebuild your living room floor.
Click to expand...

Second this! With what you are investing in your tank, paying a structural engineer for an hour or so of their time should be about one months electricity costs to run the thing. Try your local club sometimes there is a true professional willing to help out other members.
 
You could check at a local lumber yard. Mine uses a computer program to determine whats required for proper support.
 
Certainly, people are correct that you should use caution when taking advice online. However, I thought that's what these forums are partially for. If hiring a engineer to help gives you peace of mind, then go for it. Having been in construction for 15+ years, I have found engineers have there time and place. I would not use pole jacks as some have suggested. In my (opinion), they are not the best option due to many factors. They will only support one floor joist, they have no footing under them (load dispersal), and the have the potential to be knocked out or rust. Use the web to gather info, weed through it, and make your own best educated decision.
 
The forums are helpful, but with something like this you get a lot of 'educated' opinions from people with no education. The other factor is that people don't always recognize the difference between safety and a good outcome. ("I did it this way and didn't have a problem..." - perhaps because it was safe, perhaps because they were lucky; no way to tell)

The problem with trying to weed through the web to answer a critical question is by default, you don't have the knowledge or experience, but you're depending on your own inadequate knowledge and experience to weed through information and determine what is good and reliable information and what is not. It's rather a catch-22.
 
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