Fluval Spec 2.5 gallon

[Orion120]

Hello all,

First time poster. This will be my first attempt at a saltwater build. I have had freshwater all my life, including planted tanks. I know starting small is not recommended for a beginner, but have some faith. This website looks like it has a very resourceful membership, and I am looking for some advice.

I have done a lot of research, and feel confident that I can pull it off. From what I have read so far patience, and stability are key with this. Stability being the toughest of the two on such a small aquarium. The goals for the tank are to just have some hardy corals, and a tiny hermit crab or two. No fish.
Here is what I have and done so far -

Fluval Spec 2.5 gallon
Stock pump - May upgrade it... will see.
Innovative Marine 4 Watt 14000k Skkye Light Clamp LED Light - Black
Hydor THEO Submersible Aquarium Heater 25W - Tank temp 76F

The tank has been running for a couple of days now. It has live sand and live rock in it. Was thinking of using Seachem Stability to cycle the tank. Thoughts?

Lighting - What duration? The light fixture comes with independent power cords for moonlight and daylight. What do you typically set your timers at? I am planning on leaving the lights off while the tank cycles.

Water - I use RO/DI water - tests at 0 TDS.

Temperature - Currently at 76F. That good enough? Or should I adjust it to 77-78F range?

Salinity - measured at 1.025 (I have a refractometer on order for more accurate measurements). The LFS says 1.022-1.024 for corals. I have read online that 1.026 is better overall. Thoughts on this as well.

Pictures to come in the next few days.
Even though Seachem stability says its ok to add livestock while the tank is cycling, I won't be doing so. I will be waiting a week or so to let everything stabilize during the quick cycle, and then add a small hermit crab or two.

Thanks everyone.

 

[reret10]

cool i cant wait to see how it turns out!

 

[tylernt]

I know starting small is not recommended for a beginner,

Actually, I think small is OK for a beginner, if:

I have done a lot of research

and

No fish.

Eliminating fish does wonders for bioload, and will greatly enhance your chances of success. Two thumbs up!

Was thinking of using Seachem Stability to cycle the tank. Thoughts?

Sounds like snake oil to me. Pass.

Lighting - What duration?

I use 8 hours, anything from 8 to 12 hours is fine, personal preference mainly.

I am planning on leaving the lights off while the tank cycles.

Not necessary unless you have a massive algae bloom, and there is beneficial phytoplankton living in your water and LR too that needs light.

Water - I use RO/DI water - tests at 0 TDS.

Excellent. You're building on a good foundation.

Temperature - Currently at 76F. That good enough? Or should I adjust it to 77-78F range?

I consider 78°F borderline too cold. I run my reef at 80°, but really 79-81°F is fine. If you have specific species of livestock that you know prefer colder water you can do 78°, but otherwise crank that heater up.

The LFS says 1.022-1.024 for corals.

The LFS is wrong.

I have read online that 1.026 is better overall. Thoughts on this as well.

Yup, the ideal is 1.025 to 1.026. When I mix up SW I aim for 1.025 to 1.0255 and call it good.

One thing you didn't mention is an ATO. A critical element for keeping a small tank stable is keeping SG steady. 1-2 days of evaporation on a pico can elevate your SG .001 or more and when you finally top off you can shock livestock (and what if you want to go away for a weekend?) IMHO an ATO is not so much optional as required on a small tank. Others may disagree but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

It sounds like you're off to a good start. Good luck and keep us posted, I'd like to know how it turns out!

 

[Orion120]

Yup, the ideal is 1.025 to 1.026. When I mix up SW I aim for 1.025 to 1.0255 and call it good.

One thing you didn't mention is an ATO. A critical element for keeping a small tank stable is keeping SG steady. 1-2 days of evaporation on a pico can elevate your SG .001 or more and when you finally top off you can shock livestock (and what if you want to go away for a weekend?) IMHO an ATO is not so much optional as required on a small tank. Others may disagree but that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

It sounds like you're off to a good start. Good luck and keep us posted, I'd like to know how it turns out!

Exactly the kind of detailed reply I was looking for!
I will be sure to have the lights on.

- Speaking of lights - when do you put the moon lights on? All night?

- I'll look into an ATO. Although, the evaporation isn't much on this tank believe it or not! It barely drops over the course of a week.

- When mixing your saltwater do you let it sit overnight before you do a water change? How much, and how often?

- The cycle - Since I used 1.5 lbs of live rock, and live sand is the tank instantly cycled? Should I buy a couple of small reef safe hermit crabs to get some ammonia in the tank?

Thanks so much!

 

[tylernt]

- Speaking of lights - when do you put the moon lights on? All night?

There are two ways to use moon lights. The most common one is for humans to look in the tank at "night". So you can leave them on all night or turn them on as needed.

Or, you can use a reef controller that simulates actual moonlight in an attempt to get corals to spawn. This is rare.

- I'll look into an ATO. Although, the evaporation isn't much on this tank believe it or not! It barely drops over the course of a week.

That'll change when you turn the heat up. My pico evaporates between a quart and half a gallon per week.

- When mixing your saltwater do you let it sit overnight before you do a water change? How much, and how often?

I've mixed and immediately used SW with no ill effects. Some say it's better to sit overnight. Doesn't seem to matter much though.

On a larger tank, you water change 10%-25% weekly. On a pico, I strongly endorse heavier changes, 50% weekly -- and some experienced pico reefers even do 100% changes (yes, they drain the tank dry then fill it back up). 100% is a little extreme IMHO but 50% is ideal. It's a pico, it's not like you're breaking the bank on salt mix.

- The cycle - Since I used 1.5 lbs of live rock, and live sand is the tank instantly cycled? Should I buy a couple of small reef safe hermit crabs to get some ammonia in the tank?

Depends on the quality of the LR and LS and how long it took to transport before getting to your warm tank with circulation. A cycle might only take 3 days, or it could take 3 weeks. Only way to tell is to test.

No need to add ammonia, if you have no ammonia/nitrites for 3 days just start stocking.

 

[brandon429]

all good advice indeed.

 

[brandon429]

The thing about the water changes is really a personal preference, but if you took lets say 20 days straight googling to chart the longevity of every 2.5 gallon pico (and smaller) that was ever posted on forums, you'll see the ones waiting longer than a week to do water changes getting choked with algae/taken down in about 12-18 mos tops.
You will occasionally come across a post claiming like ten years or more, but those never have pics, vids or threads. Count on the documented ones to make decisions from.
Its a lifespan thing, the amount and frequency of water changes. When the tank is new, it won't seem like it matters much

The longest lived pico reefs in the world change at least 50% weekly and up to 100% as Tyler mentioned.

You can even go two months without a water change when the tank is new, fooling you into thinking we've been over changing water this whole time.

But after you coax 3 or 4 several hundred dollar pico reefs out to 18 mos, only to have them crash or get loaded with algae, you'll sing a different tune. Take it from me man, change as much weekly as you are willing to do, never skip a week.

the tanks are very forgiving when new, its the year beyond situation that makes the water change schedule and volume really count

One last bit of advice to tie into that lifespan thing...when you see algae, ever, remove it.

Dont use an animal to do so. Have a clean up crew if you want, to see -if- they'll prevent it, but once any kind of cyano or algae starts to pop up (and it will) simply make that spot disappear using any creative method you can find online.

I used to lift out the rock, and zap the growths with a lighter to burn them off. viola, I never had algae wreck my picos.

but I watched as thousands of others posted algae problem threads and wondered why there is some unspoken rule for us that says a CUC is the only way

CUC's don't even work in pico reefs, its not that they are the only way, they are the wrong way for algae control. Use them as a preventative, but when it appears, you remove it yourself. That bit of advice and the large weekly water changes will do more for your tank than anything if you are hoping to get past two years.

 

[tylernt]

Wow Orion120 you've attracted the attention of one of the most seasoned pico-reefers online. It's hard to argue with Brandon's experience.

Brandon,

I guess I should clarify my "extreme" comment on the 100% changes. In my situation, I don't think I can match SG and temperature well enough to avoid stressing corals with a 100% drain-and-fill. Maybe with a refractometer and leisure time at home I could do it, but I don't have the luxury of playing with heaters and powerheads in buckets for my desk tank in my employer's office. Doing a 50% "pour-through" means I can just use room temperature SW that I mixed at home with a hydrometer.

But, as I'm now at the 15-month mark on my tank, I'm reconsidering my strategy. Maybe I should step up from 50% to a bigger pour-through...

 

[x3thelast]

ive been doing simple 100% water changes. i dont bring up the new water to temp ( just room temp) the only thing i check is salinity. 100% once a week every week. corals get exposed to air for a few seconds. alls well.

to the OP good luck with this little project. theres alot of fluval specs running very successfully. looking forward to pictures later on

 

[brandon429]

El fab kept his three gallon for years on 50% that's about right for a2.5 as well

The smaller ones like gallon setups like x3thelast has are just easier to swap out

As long as you are doing something weekly i bet it will be great

 

[Orion120]

50% Weekly changes won't be an issue. I already do that with my freshwater planted tank.
As far as matching the temperature spot on it looks like Tyler is just going with room temp water when he changes it. I store my RO/DI water in our basement where it's cooler especially with winter coming. The temp of the water may be 70-72F, and my pico's water 78-80F. Is this too much of a difference?

- Algae removal. I plan on buying one of those mini mag floats for the glass. The lighter method for removal on the rocks sounds interesting.

- Purigen. I use purigen in my freshwater tank. Would it hurt to use it in a saltwater setup that just started? Or should I wait a month or two?

- Additives. Anything I should be dosing the tank? Some kind of reef supplement, or are those gimmicks?

- When the tank is done with its cycle, what would you recommend I add first? Small coral, or hermit crab?

Here is a picture of my 29g planted tank. Hopefully the pico turns out to be just as nice looking Pics of the pico to come this weekend.

 

[brandon429]

For small tanks i just take a pre mixed gallon of water, set it in a warm sink of water for two mins and its at 78

Real nice planted tank for sure! Dosing is secondary in importance to the water changes, just preference

Actually i recommend it moreso for smaller tanks but not everybody doses their pico
I do, with calcium and alk

 

[Orion120]

Pictures

Any and all suggestions are welcome. Tank is still cycling so I can move things around easily.

 

[x3thelast]

great choices of rubble you got there! curious to see what will decide to live inside that dead shell

 

[tylernt]

The temp of the water may be 70-72F, and my pico's water 78-80F. Is this too much of a difference?

I pour the new water in slowly as the old water is siphoned out through a little 1/4" airline. My 50W heater clicks on and doesn't let the overall tank temp drop more than 1°F. If you siphon 50% out and then dump new water in all at once, you might have a problem.

- Additives. Anything I should be dosing the tank? Some kind of reef supplement, or are those gimmicks?

If you have a lot of stony corals, yes, you should 1. test for calcium, mag, and alk, and 2. dose if the tests indicate you should. Dosing without testing is not recommended!

And if you keep to mainly soft corals with only 1 or two LPS, dosing should not be necessary.

- When the tank is done with its cycle, what would you recommend I add first? Small coral, or hermit crab?

Dunno that it really matters...

 

[tommer725]

hermits, they are cheap and you wont waste 10 or 20 on a coral if it dies.

 

[Orion120]

Tank looks like its done with its cycle. Temp holding steady at 79F and salinity is 1.026.
Going to pick up a couple of hermit crabs and see how they do for a little bit.
Should I be feeding them anything with a new tank? There is very little algae at the moment.

 

[Orion120]

Okay sooooo I bought two hermit crabs.... At least I thought I bought two. The guy at the LFS also gave me a few empty shells. Well it turns out I have five hermit crabs now in this tank.
Tank is still new. Not sure if it will handle the bio-load, and my other thought is what to feed them?

 

[tylernt]

When I had a hermit, I used sinking fish food pellets. Dunno exactly what the USRDA is for hermits though. They probably need less than we think they do.

 

[chiblackhawks4]

these miniature tanks are so tiny and cool