Flying Dutch 700 gallon in wall tank-living room/home office divider - Build Thread

[Euler Kernighan]

That is pretty awesome!

thanks Sean! let's do it together! :thumbsup:

 

[sean112280]

I'm in. Subscribed!

 

[dave.m]

Matt "d3hree" (from Matt's 5000ltr Display) and dahenley show some concerns about drill the bottom of tank and suggest some alternatives about closed loop system. If you have time, get back to the earlier pages (1 and 2) and drop me line about this theme!

I hate to disagree with Matt because his images are so beautiful. But perhaps Matt doesn't realize you will be viewing your aquarium from both sides. That will put any over-the-top Closed Loop plumbing in constant view. If you can live with an aquarium where the plumbing is visible, or if you can think of a way to hide the CL plumbing, then it is a valid option. On the other hand, many people have successfully implemented Closed Loop recirculation systems by drilling through the bottom, so I do not think that method can be totally discounted.

Regarding dahenley's concern for back syphoning, there are measures that can be taken, such as inserting a backflow prevention valve. Sometimes these can stick. Mr.Wilson showed me one yesterday that is transparent, so you can see if it is working correctly.

For any type of valve there is always the possibility that it will stick. Regular cleaning and maintenance is one way to lessen this possibility, but like anything else in life, nothing is 100% foolproof.

Dave.M (not an expert)

 

[dahenley]

i agree with you dave.m

you can drill, but you can also go over the top(or side in your case)

if you go over the side, you can do a foe (fake) rock wall or type of structure to hide it.
but drilling the bottom is fine as long as you use quality bulkheads and union ballvalves. (i say union so you can take apart portions apart.)
also, if you can use threaded fittings on the inside plumbing. either threaded bulkheads or piping. this way if you need to take something apart, you can keep some teflon covered plugs on hand and just screw them in the plumbing and then unhook the plumbing underneath. this way you can make adjustments or what not. you just have to make sure you are using quality bulkheads because there are only 2 different ways i know of to remove them........ neither is fun. (drain the tank, or take i pipe with grease on 1 end and plunge it in the tank over the bulkhead. (you have to remove the substrate and things away from the bulkhead) then you can drain the compartment and make quick work of it.. and dont hit the tube or you will have a mess. (if you attach a pipe to the bulkhead then you can remove it smoothly and install the new one fast and tighten it and your ready after you remove the pipe and any excess grease.))

 

[d3hree]

you are right dave...when I first suggested the plumbing i had forgot that the tank was being viewed from both sides.

I think that drilling the base of the tank is a viable option, like has been said it has been used successfully on so many builds. However if it was me ( I am prone to bad luck) then I would explore other methods too.

Like Dahenley says decent aquascape can hide a multitude of sins.

This is a fun build to follow regardless of what method you chose to go down, and there is no right or wrong way.

 

[WWC]

Hey Euler!!! Your skimmer has arrived. Here are some pics!

Bubble King Super Marin 300.

 

[dahenley]

I hear an angle chorus.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

[d3hree]

thats pretty, I like the arty black and white shot too.

 

[Euler Kernighan]

:deadhorse::deadhorse:

Hey Euler!!! Your skimmer has arrived. Here are some pics!

Bubble King Super Marin 300.

WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :deadhorse:
7
Oh my gosh is that for real?? I'm afraid to say I think it IS for real!!!!

I'm going to get into the airplane right now - wait for my comments!!! :dance: :deadhorse1: :blown:

 

[BADGUS]

Nice!!So you're flying over to pick it up?Wow!!!Wish i could do that!!The tank build is coming along very nicely!!Can't wait to see more updates!!!Great job!!

 

[ksed]

Wow nice skimmer:eek1:

 

[jmacc702]

I dont think that skimmer will be large enough, perhaps consider adding another!

 

[zach_24_90]

nice build. cant wait to see the rest

 

[berniegermie]

Cant wait to see what its gonna look like all set up

 

[WWC]

It was a pleasure meeting you Euler! Good luck with the build.

 

[CMM23]

Wow thats big as hell

 

[Njhc]

That is a badass skimmer! Want to trade for my seaclone 150, LOL!!! The tank setup is looking awesome so far.

 

[caliking]

Me too.. :bounce3:

I hear an angle chorus.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

 

[Euler Kernighan]

I hate to disagree with Matt because his images are so beautiful. But perhaps Matt doesn't realize you will be viewing your aquarium from both sides. That will put any over-the-top Closed Loop plumbing in constant view. If you can live with an aquarium where the plumbing is visible, or if you can think of a way to hide the CL plumbing, then it is a valid option. On the other hand, many people have successfully implemented Closed Loop recirculation systems by drilling through the bottom, so I do not think that method can be totally discounted.

Regarding dahenley's concern for back syphoning, there are measures that can be taken, such as inserting a backflow prevention valve. Sometimes these can stick. Mr.Wilson showed me one yesterday that is transparent, so you can see if it is working correctly.

Dave.M (not an expert)

Hey Dave.M, thanks for support me, you know, it's very hard to decide the "better" way between the in-tank circulation systems...

:thumbsup:

 

[Euler Kernighan]

i agree with you dave.m

...

if you go over the side, you can do a foe (fake) rock wall or type of structure to hide it.
but drilling the bottom is fine as long as you use quality bulkheads and union ballvalves. (i say union so you can take apart portions apart.)
also, if you can use threaded fittings on the inside plumbing. either threaded bulkheads or piping. this way if you need to take something apart, you can keep some teflon covered plugs on hand and just screw them in the plumbing and then unhook the plumbing underneath. this way you can make adjustments or what not. you just have to make sure you are using quality bulkheads because there are only 2 different ways i know of to remove them........ neither is fun. (drain the tank, or take i pipe with grease on 1 end and plunge it in the tank over the bulkhead. (you have to remove the substrate and things away from the bulkhead) then you can drain the compartment and make quick work of it.. and dont hit the tube or you will have a mess. (if you attach a pipe to the bulkhead then you can remove it smoothly and install the new one fast and tighten it and your ready after you remove the pipe and any excess grease.))

that's what i'm talking about guys, this community works because you guys help each other!!! :thumbsup:

Dahenley, as I'm here in US right now (L.A), took this opportunity to buy some schedule 80 bulkheads, unions and other equipments :spin1: wait for some pics!