Flying Dutch 700 gallon in wall tank-living room/home office divider - Build Thread

Just went thru 16 pages of your thread, very informative build. You're really a DIY guy, have fun building your tank and thanks for sharing.


Thank you MoreT!

I'm really having good time here diying everything! :rollface:

please, keep aroung! lot of update coming! :wavehand:
 
Brilliant update again of your thread Euler.
You must be fortunate with two right hands and the qualitative help you're getting from friends and family!


two right hands, uh?! I have to share your post with my mom!!! when I's kid my mom yelled at me: "stop breaking everything you dog!"and chided me at all time... you know, when you're yourger you don't care about this!!! :dance:


be prepared, lots of pics coming!
 
Hi Euler, i'm following your project, it's a nice build... i'm a diy guy too and i discover some same solutions for the stand of my new project (still designing..). It's nice too see that someone like to break bones with heavy weight i-beam :lolspin:
Like others, i'm waiting new updates. :cool:

OctoReefStand.jpg


Ciao OctoReef! what's up?! let's make the "first i-beam club" :thumbsup:


wow!!! this is gonna be a LARGE tank, uh? :deadhorse: let me know your build thread! :bounce3:

thank you and welcome aboard!


stay tuned lots of pics to come!
 
a friend in need is a friend indeed!

a friend in need is a friend indeed!

guys,


these last two weeks were superb weeks at work but I got sometime to make some progress on this project, let me share with you guys some pics... be prepared, tons of pics!



as you guys know I'll run two CLOSED-LOOP systems, each one counting on: Reeflo Super Dart Gold and Oceans Motions 4-way!

thumbs up for Reeflo and Oceans Motions products!!! :thumbsup:

ohh my gosh... plumbing work, right? that's what i'm talking about - down here in BR, this is the 'pattern' of plumb available (forget about the color, i don't no why...):

Plumbing_01_GeneralView.jpg





ok, let me show how I prepared de bulkheads fittings (tank adapterd), first the body:

Plumbing_02_Bulkhead_Sch80.jpg





I used double sided tape to fix the "o-ring":

Plumbing_03_Bulkhead_Sch80.jpg





like this:

Plumbing_04_Bulkhead_Sch80.jpg





after that, I just use silicone to fill that gap:

Plumbing_05_Bulkhead_Sch80.jpg





and ask a little help to another friend:

Plumbing_06_InPlace.jpg





more to come
 
...continuing on closed-loop matters, working with threads was a PITB 'cause the "imperial pattern" ain't the same on US/Canada and BR, so I faced some problems to use BR adapter into OM-4way:

1) the adapters aren't the same:

Plumbing_07_AdapterComparison.jpg





2) the internal diameter (where the pipe goes) aren't the same too - there's 1mm difference:

BR ADAPTER:

Plumbing_08_AdapterComparison.jpg





US ADAPTER:

Plumbing_09_AdapterComparison.jpg





3) the pitch and lead aren't the same too neither the depth - it's a PITA, uh?

BR Adapter's thread

Plumbing_10_AdapterComparison.jpg





US Adapter's thread

Plumbing_11_AdapterComparison.jpg





4) these are the 'poor' information that comes on BR adapter:

Plumbing_12_AdapterComparison.jpg





5) these are detailed information on US adapter:

Plumbing_13_AdapterComparison.jpg





As in as, the adapter produced in BR is a piece of junk and they ARE NOT compatible with OM-4way, so I decide to use only US Adapters and try to make some modifications on BR Adapters and pipes as well. :headwally: :headwally: :headwally:
 
as you guys saw on the last post, the BR adapter (male adapter fitting) aren't compatible with OM-4way (female thread) so I decide to use only US Adapters, right??? but this was just the firs problem... using US Adapter comes with another problem :headwally: ...the external BR pipe diameter isn't fit on the slip side of US Adapter... ohhhh my gosh... it becomes a nightmare, uh????? :furious:


just checkout this:

Plumbing_15_Pipeenlargement.jpg





can you see this gap between the pipe and the slip side?

Plumbing_16_Pipeenlargement.jpg





we're talking about 1.8mm:

Plumbing_17_Pipeenlargement.jpg





so I have to make a 'work around' to enlarge the pipe:

Plumbing_18_Pipeenlargement.jpg





using two jigs to do that - first:

Plumbing_19_Pipeenlargement.jpg




last one:

Plumbing_20_Pipeenlargement.jpg





and the pipe fits perfectly on adapter's slip side: :debi:

Plumbing_21_Pipeenlargement.jpg
 
as you guys saw on the last post, the BR adapter (male adapter fitting) aren't compatible with OM-4way (female thread) so I decide to use only US Adapters, right??? but this was just the firs problem... using US Adapter comes with another problem :headwally: ...the external BR pipe diameter isn't fit on the slip side of US Adapter... ohhhh my gosh... it becomes a nightmare, uh????? :furious:


just checkout this:

Plumbing_15_Pipeenlargement.jpg





can you see this gap between the pipe and the slip side?

Plumbing_16_Pipeenlargement.jpg





we're talking about 1.8mm:

Plumbing_17_Pipeenlargement.jpg





so I have to make a 'work around' to enlarge the pipe:

Plumbing_18_Pipeenlargement.jpg





using two jigs to do that - first:

Plumbing_19_Pipeenlargement.jpg




last one:

Plumbing_20_Pipeenlargement.jpg





and the pipe fits perfectly on adapter's slip side: :debi:

Plumbing_21_Pipeenlargement.jpg
 
Nice fix on the fittings!

just a question...
why did you use double sided tape on the bulkhead? that will create an uneven pressure on the oring...
I never use actual silicone..... since it doesnt stick stick to plastic/acrylic long term.....

i always use 100% silicone grease to lube the orings on mine, and it also acts a a tacky/glue to hold them in place. it prevents the rubber from drying out and holds the seal. i have never had any problems with them ever leaking... but if the oring is dry, then they will always leak.... its just a matter of time...

that is my experience though......

i have seen some people clean the surface where the bulkhead was installed around, and sput a bead of silicone around the bulkhead after installing though.


oh, and when i do my OM closed loop, i will put my OM above the water level of the tank. this is so i can pull the top of the OM off without draining or having to use valves. but i have valves in case i have to remove or in case i want to re-plumb the system.
that was my opinion though.

Keep the pictures flowing!!!!
 
Nice fix on the fittings!

just a question...
why did you use double sided tape on the bulkhead? that will create an uneven pressure on the oring...
I never use actual silicone..... since it doesnt stick stick to plastic/acrylic long term.....

just to hold the o-ring right there but you're 100% right! silicone grease is the perfect solution but i neve thought it before :rollface:


i always use 100% silicone grease to lube the orings on mine, and it also acts a a tacky/glue to hold them in place. it prevents the rubber from drying out and holds the seal. i have never had any problems with them ever leaking... but if the oring is dry, then they will always leak.... its just a matter of time...

that is my experience though......

ohh my gosh i wish i wold it takes 10 ou 15 yrs! :thumbsup: but you're right I just a



i have seen some people clean the surface where the bulkhead was installed around, and sput a bead of silicone around the bulkhead after installing though.

that's exactly what I did! :thumbsup:



oh, and when i do my OM closed loop, i will put my OM above the water level of the tank. this is so i can pull the top of the OM off without draining or having to use valves. but i have valves in case i have to remove or in case i want to re-plumb the system.
that was my opinion though.

Keep the pictures flowing!!!!


+1 on OM AWL, but in this project I have no room to do this, so I decide to keep it underneath gabinet and man I have to say, that's a LOT of valves and unions!!! :rollface:

going to update another batch!
 
Lots of people keep OM under the tanks with valves. It just takes a few extra towels. But make sure you have a few inches above the OM so you can pull the drum out later.

Keep the pictures flowing!!!
 
continuing on closed-loop... just finished the plumb-work sanding the male adapters:

Plumbing_14_AdapterComparison.jpg





taped everything with teflon tape (down here we don't have the liquid thread selant :( ):

Plumbing_15_AdapterComparison.jpg





this is the connection used on Reeflo and OM-4way:

Plumbing_22_CL_Conections.jpg




assembled:

Plumbing_23_CL_Conections.jpg





with the pump:

Plumbing_24_CL_Conections.jpg





just an overview of OM-4way:

Plumbing_24_CL_OM4way.jpg





with connections (looks like an autobot, uh?!!):

Plumbing_25_CL_OM4way.jpg





the whole thing:

Plumbing_26_CL_OM4way.jpg
 
Euler,
the valves your showing are "single union ball valves"
this isnt a problem, but here in the states, a lot of single ended ball valves like that are not a good idea. when the union is opened (with the valve closed) then the inner ball will fall out. which doesnt seal very well.... haha
but i see you also put a standard union under it which is good. i was just curious if your valves there are the same?

also, is it common practice to sand the fittings and pipe before gluing?
here, i dont think it is common practice.... we just use a primer and glue (some dont use primer...)

its just neat to see the differences or practice... haha

looks good!!!!

also, pull the motor and drum out of the OM-4 and look at the threaded fittings from the inside. some people have said that they threaded the fittings in too far, and it will interfere with the drum. just wanted to throw that out there...
if it does go in too far, you can just use a sanding tool to file them down, or put a few more passes of teflon tape on the fittings and they wont thread that far in.

(i just remember that happening somewhere for someone)
 
Euler,
the valves your showing are "single union ball valves"
this isnt a problem, but here in the states, a lot of single ended ball valves like that are not a good idea. when the union is opened (with the valve closed) then the inner ball will fall out. which doesnt seal very well.... haha
but i see you also put a standard union under it which is good.

...by now you know all the problems I facing living down here and tryin' to do a first world project :headwally:

all the valves are "single union" and man I have to say they are junk, believe me.. there're just two companies who produces PVC fittings down here and they know nothing about quality or standards like schedule 80 or 40 and they don't offer a wide variety of products, there's only one option (something "like" schedule 40) and very limited options, can you believe that? :hmm4: I just know about this things 'cause a lived in US in the past and learn somethings.

i tried to solve this big problem buying Praher PVC fittings, like this:

Gate valve:

Praher-Schedulle-80-Gate-Valve2.jpg





"double union valves":

Praher-Schedulle-80-Gate-Valve.jpg





ball valve:

Praher-Schedulle-80-Ball-Valve.jpg





an unions:

Praher-Schedulle-80-Union.jpg




and just placed a big P.O (USD +1.350) on Bulk Reef Supply and they deny my credit card, but at the time I had credit so I give them a call to understand what happened... talking with the call center agent he told me that I was trying to make an international order from Brazil and they do not sell items to Brazil regardless international credit card or not. So I asked him if I could transfer money to his personal paypal account or wire money, after all I really need that fittings.. once again response was a big "NO, you can't" :ape:

ok, I give up on this and use the local junk... very sad, uh? :worried:





i was just curious if your valves there are the same?

nop, it's a HUGE no.. :lmao:

also, is it common practice to sand the fittings and pipe before gluing?
here, i dont think it is common practice.... we just use a primer and glue (some dont use primer...)

its just neat to see the differences or practice... haha

looks good!!!!

yep. there're instructions on PVC cement box saying something like "before glue we do recommend to sand the surfaces using a sand grit #100" LOL

about 2 or 3 years they release a kind of primer but no one uses it, a kind of discredit, you know...


also, pull the motor and drum out of the OM-4 and look at the threaded fittings from the inside. some people have said that they threaded the fittings in too far, and it will interfere with the drum. just wanted to throw that out there...
if it does go in too far, you can just use a sanding tool to file them down, or put a few more passes of teflon tape on the fittings and they wont thread that far in.

(i just remember that happening somewhere for someone)


that's the trick #2 of the "dahenley's book of the closed-loop" - I did it, everytuing is fine! :bounce1:


wow, it becomes a very long post, uh? updating pics!
 
ok guys, all the plumb-work is done but before the water leak test, let me show the strainers that i'm going to use:

Strain01.jpg





its design makes water to do this movement:

Strain02.jpg
 
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