Foam & Live Rock commbo

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12065261#post12065261 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by OranguTang
Wow man, awesome tank! I am seriously thinking about tearing down my tank and doing some work like this.
Do it!:bounce1:
 
bringin this thread back again :)

I finally got around to doing my foam + marco rocks...

pillars_02.jpg


the back is square shaped so that they cover the two overflows in my 220 tank. I am waiting a week or so for them to cure.

Thanks again tiggsy. I basically followed the methods on this thread verbatim. Only difference is I put a 1/2" pvc frame around the eggcrate since I couldn't find strong enough eggcrate. The PVC stick out below to raise the rocks 5" off the glass for a DSB. I think 1/2" pvc is a great way to reinforce standard eggcrate.

I used Great stuff Pondfoam (its black) and West Systems Epoxy.
 
Sure, I just mix the resin together (resin and hardener), stir for one minute, and then start painting the foam with a cheap little paintbrush. After I smother the foam in epoxy resin, I grab some sand and start throwing is on like a monkey would throw feces :)
 
Also, I used Great Stuff Pond and Stone foam. This is for two reasons.

1) It has carbon in it, which makes it black. This protects it from deterioration caused by long term exposure to UV radiation. Regular great stuff will start to break down over time especially with exposure to metal halides.

2)The pond and stone foam they sell cures denser and stronger than either Handifoam or the regular kind of Great Stuff foam. Doesn't expand as much. A few of my rocks are held in place only by the foam, and I can easily lift the entire structure by any single rock without hearing a tearing sound. I think the epoxy is helping alot too...

fwiw they market the pond and stone foam as being for use in securing the cap stones of retainer walls.
 
No problem.
Hotwired that is a good question. I wonder if higher ORP would speed the decay?

Either way I think the foam should be covered in an epoxy and left to cure for at least a week before seeing water. My rocks would already be in the water, but unfortunately I had to chip away at some more foam after I competed the epoxy/sand... stupid me didn't take measurements every step of the way and in some places the foam was still too big :) So waiting another week or so for the newly applied stuff to cure.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12965354#post12965354 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RyanBrucks
My rocks would already be in the water, but unfortunately I had to chip away at some more foam after I competed the epoxy/sand... stupid me didn't take measurements every step of the way and in some places the foam was still too big :) So waiting another week or so for the newly applied stuff to cure.

I think the phrase is something like "Measure twice, cut once". :hammer: But maybe Im wrong. I just think you wanted to play with the foam some more.:lol:

I am trying to find what kind of epoxy to use over my foam right now. I found a place that makes epoxy for boats and things. I figure might work on the foam wall. Just waiting to talk to them some more about it being fish safe. They also have some coatings that will help block UV and keep it from degrading the foam over time from the tank lights. Might try that too.

Have you used ozone in any of your tanks?
 
Hi Tiggsy
Excellent job. I used to keep a salt water tank until I got hooked on the fresh water african cichlids. I made a foam/rocl backdrop for my tank very similar to yours. The oic is below:
DSCF0895.jpg

I used great stuff foam for the entire backdrop and worked shell sand and rocks into it. When it is still soft great stuff is incredably sticky. The link below show how I made most of my backdrop:
http://www.cichlid-forum.com/phpBB/...ghlight=&sid=c1bea911b3ec0a17d7c1896325117a88

The foam doe have a tendency to float. To over come this I worked rocks into the egg crate while it was still sticky, along with the shell sand. Then cut off the excess foam and use clear silicone caulk to glue the back drop to the tank.
And if you notice the plants on the backdrop. They are attached using a hot glue gun.
there are artificial marine plants that would work as well.
 
Cool!

one thing to watch for is that using limestone rocks and seashells in a FW tank can have a tendancy to raise the pH... not sure if thats an issue for you or not. I used to have a fist sized piece of calcium carbonate rock in my FW tank and eventually it started dissolving and raising the pH so I removed it. Just a heads up, probably no big deal.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12979444#post12979444 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RyanBrucks
Cool!

one thing to watch for is that using limestone rocks and seashells in a FW tank can have a tendancy to raise the pH... not sure if thats an issue for you or not. I used to have a fist sized piece of calcium carbonate rock in my FW tank and eventually it started dissolving and raising the pH so I removed it. Just a heads up, probably no big deal.

Thanks for the advise. But african cichlids prefer hard water with a higher Ph. Also the tanic acids released by the mangrove driftwood over a period of time seems to lessen the harmful affects of the carbonates.
 
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