Foam stuff for the "rock work" look????

the rock i got it from the LFS as sun dried dead rock. around 11kgs. after cleaning it again with FW i dry it again.

first lay the egg crate flat on the floor choose those heavier and bigger rock as the base rock secure them with some cable tie just in case.

inject some of the form into the gaps just enough to make contact with the rocks and the egg crates ;not too much as the will make the rock float.

next choose those light and odd shape rock to make those over-hanging cliff. cave etc.

in between tbe rocks inject the form again just enough to came into contact with the rocks.

before waiting for the form to dry add a few pcs of corals chips or small shells and push it into the form.

this way it will make the form less visable for others and i had bits and pieces of coral chips and shells from the pic you can hardly see the joints of the form.

hope that help you
 
Excellent idea sunny 03. That will be a nice setup once it is all setup. I like the cliff and overhangs. Makes it look real dramatic.

Peace,
John H.
 
Sunny03, that looks great. That is exsactly what I want. Did you do anything to hide the zip ties on the front of the rocks and did you use zip ties on all the rock are just the bigger ones?
 
RedEyeReef said:
Sunny03, that looks great. That is exsactly what I want. Did you do anything to hide the zip ties on the front of the rocks and did you use zip ties on all the rock are just the bigger ones?

i did not use any thing to hide the zip tie ( i dont tie the whole rock ) just go through the small holes inside the rock

i tied those rocks on the base (usually heavier) only as for the rest i just use the form to hold them together.
 
sunny,

I think that you have used a great idea. I really like the use of the eggcrate to make a doubly secure. I was wondering. Did you use sections of eggcrate, so the whole thing isn't just one amazingly heavy backdrop?

Peace,
John H.
 
Hi
I used some of this "Great Stuff" for a waterfall area for my small paludarium. The area is 24x24 high and is only 3 inches thick at the base. Agheres to anything it touches before curing..
If you make small puffs in rows you can add another layer after about 10 minutes and go as high as you want, It can also be carved after curing, I usrd acrylic paint to change the color. Has been in use since Feb. no deflating and is still holding all the driftwood solid as a rock. The acrylic paint will protect it from UV degradation. I was afraid the constant abrasion of the waterfall
would wear it off but not yet. The secret is to let it throughly dry at least 2 days.
I have not tried it in salt water but made wonderful rock walls for rift lake cichlids.. Did an 8 foot tank with all kinds of caves and overhangs. The entire detail weighs around 3 pounds and cost under 10 bucks. My kind of decorating lol
Gary
 
Do NOT use the Latex foam! The stuff never hardens, and will just dissolve away. Stick with the polyurethane sticky goo:)
 
gstark said:
Hi
I used some of this "Great Stuff" for a waterfall area for my small paludarium. The area is 24x24 high and is only 3 inches thick at the base. Agheres to anything it touches before curing..
If you make small puffs in rows you can add another layer after about 10 minutes and go as high as you want, It can also be carved after curing, I usrd acrylic paint to change the color. Has been in use since Feb. no deflating and is still holding all the driftwood solid as a rock. The acrylic paint will protect it from UV degradation. I was afraid the constant abrasion of the waterfall
would wear it off but not yet. The secret is to let it throughly dry at least 2 days.
I have not tried it in salt water but made wonderful rock walls for rift lake cichlids.. Did an 8 foot tank with all kinds of caves and overhangs. The entire detail weighs around 3 pounds and cost under 10 bucks. My kind of decorating lol
Gary

Do you any pictures and where easiest place to get Acrylic paint?

Anyone know if acrylic paint is safe in SW?
 
RedEyeReef,

I know that Fusion paint is safe. I've been thinking of trying out that fake art deco paint that you use to paint stuff give it that rocky look.

I think the key with using any of these acrylic paints is to allow them proper time to cure to secure a good bond, just like you need to give silicone to cure properly.

Peace,
John H.
 
rufio173 said:
RedEyeReef,

I know that Fusion paint is safe. I've been thinking of trying out that fake art deco paint that you use to paint stuff give it that rocky look.

I think the key with using any of these acrylic paints is to allow them proper time to cure to secure a good bond, just like you need to give silicone to cure properly.

Peace,
John H.

Where can I get Fusion paint?
 
Hi
Afraid I don't have any pix . Been too cheap to get a digital camera lol. Frances and Jeanne wiped out my memory of the few pix I did have.
I've been using an acrylic called "patio paint" available at most craft stores though much cheaper at Walmart. Comes in small bottles in many colors. When completely dry it is non reactive and will last for years. have used it for years in FW.
I tested the foam by putting a small puff with the surface covered with the paint in distilled water and waited for chemical reactions. There were none after 30 days. Even withstood the vinegar test. After 48 hours of drying the foam and paint seem totally inert. Of course with a paludarium i want the water to stay very soft and slightly acid While in a rift lake setup the opposite.
The foam comes in several formulas varying by the amount of expansion.I've only used the regular type.
I've heard of sprinkling it with rock salt which results in it being highly pourous as the salt will disolve when soaked in water.
Would this provide bio filtration as in in real base rock??
Kind of an interesting idea.I do know it stays inert so why not??. i seriously doubt it would replace "live rock" but could certainly be used for base rock. I love the material for paludariums and aquariums as you can make any size ,shape or color you desire. Without the weight and expense of the real stuff. Another thing when it cures the texture is much like a hard eraser ,no sharp edges,Great for frog setups!!
gary
 
Any good marine 2-part epoxy paint should do the trick to seal the foam. you can find it @HD or the marine section of most hardware stores that sell paint. I think the stuff is fully inert once cured but please verify that. They use it to paint marine boats, so it's durability is well proven to boot.
 
rufio173 said:
sunny,

I think that you have used a great idea. I really like the use of the eggcrate to make a doubly secure. I was wondering. Did you use sections of eggcrate, so the whole thing isn't just one amazingly heavy backdrop?

Peace,
John H.


you are wrong john

i did use the whole pcs of eggcrate 4*2
 
Just use regular krylon spray paint. I use it on coral skeletons for a fish only tank. So far they've been in there for 2 years.

I used to paint stuff for cichlid tanks all the time. I did it for at least 20 years and no problem.
 
I did the foam backdrop myself and i put crushed aragonite for an extra kick along with pieces of Liverock and cool Conch shells I had.....I reccomend it it looks very pimpy...i will post pics when i figure out how to do it with RC...speckled trout I want to do the spray paint but I am a scared little ninny...how can paint be ok in a hard saltwater system??

with that being said is it just a waste to paint on top of the aragonite if it does seal? I will lose the buffer ability of the arag right?

I love DIY:)
 
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