gogo7
pico reefer
hey auston
here's that thread i was promising you....
i've started this hobby, as you know, a long time ago. so what you see is through trial and error with my own schedule. you might get some other opinions about how to do things and why from other threads here.
but this is how it works for me.
i've got a reef fridge. three layers of lights.
you don't need it.
you just need that one light you've got under your dt.
the difference between phytoplankton and zooplankton is that phyto is a plant, a single celled algae, and zoos are the tiny animals that feed on them.
sorry if this sounds remedial...
you're gonna need a few things if you're gonna grow planktons...2litre pop bottles, clear ones. get about four... keep those 710 mls i gave you... don't let die out. i've got a few more for you with poly cultured rotifers, copepods and ciliates.
new bottles are nice for fresh phyto. even dried out zooplankton pop bottles are no good for phyto. especially with rotifers. roti cysts stick to everything.
with that in mind, lids on you phyto is a really good idea. the bad part about that is that no gas exchange. so i cut a little hole in the bottle at the top and slide the air line in there. i don't use air for dunaliella, but for nannochloropsis, it's a good idea to keep it in suspension.
i just stir the duna daily.
if you get a few fresh bottles setup with air line, i've got dunaliella and tetraselmis for you to cultivate.
so growing phyto....
growing phyto needs fresh saltwater and proper ferts. the ferts can send your test kits off the charts if you dose live phyto that is freshly fertilized.
ten day old culture is the rule for most times with me, but i often use under, as early as five days...
the lfs has phyto fetilizer. i use one drop per hundred mils of fresh sw.
try not to stretch your top ups passed fifty per cent. fifty percent ten day old culture, fifty percent fertilized fsw.
rules... pick a day... mon, tues weds....a day that you can always remember to fertilize and split your phytos. it helps when you're busy if you remember that your phyto cant go in the tank until weds...
fourteen day culture should be dense for roti culture.
the light... i just use the cfl... on for about twelve hours daily. i also use the window sill... put it as close to the 2litre pop bottles without melting them...
with live phyto, you can keep most everything that is dietary restricted.
i'll post copepod, brine shrimp rotifer and ciliate culture later tonight...
i've got a lot of pics to post..
here's that thread i was promising you....
i've started this hobby, as you know, a long time ago. so what you see is through trial and error with my own schedule. you might get some other opinions about how to do things and why from other threads here.
but this is how it works for me.
i've got a reef fridge. three layers of lights.
you don't need it.
you just need that one light you've got under your dt.
the difference between phytoplankton and zooplankton is that phyto is a plant, a single celled algae, and zoos are the tiny animals that feed on them.
sorry if this sounds remedial...
you're gonna need a few things if you're gonna grow planktons...2litre pop bottles, clear ones. get about four... keep those 710 mls i gave you... don't let die out. i've got a few more for you with poly cultured rotifers, copepods and ciliates.
new bottles are nice for fresh phyto. even dried out zooplankton pop bottles are no good for phyto. especially with rotifers. roti cysts stick to everything.
with that in mind, lids on you phyto is a really good idea. the bad part about that is that no gas exchange. so i cut a little hole in the bottle at the top and slide the air line in there. i don't use air for dunaliella, but for nannochloropsis, it's a good idea to keep it in suspension.
i just stir the duna daily.
if you get a few fresh bottles setup with air line, i've got dunaliella and tetraselmis for you to cultivate.
so growing phyto....
growing phyto needs fresh saltwater and proper ferts. the ferts can send your test kits off the charts if you dose live phyto that is freshly fertilized.
ten day old culture is the rule for most times with me, but i often use under, as early as five days...
the lfs has phyto fetilizer. i use one drop per hundred mils of fresh sw.
try not to stretch your top ups passed fifty per cent. fifty percent ten day old culture, fifty percent fertilized fsw.
rules... pick a day... mon, tues weds....a day that you can always remember to fertilize and split your phytos. it helps when you're busy if you remember that your phyto cant go in the tank until weds...
fourteen day culture should be dense for roti culture.
the light... i just use the cfl... on for about twelve hours daily. i also use the window sill... put it as close to the 2litre pop bottles without melting them...
with live phyto, you can keep most everything that is dietary restricted.
i'll post copepod, brine shrimp rotifer and ciliate culture later tonight...
i've got a lot of pics to post..
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