for you acrylic guys

Use a flush cut bit, in a router, mounted to a router table. Easier without tooling for it, is to have the place you buy the acrylic from prep the edges.

Jim
 
Sanding is the least preferable way to do this. Too often the edge will become slightly rounded. Scraping is preferred. If I mention his name he will probably show up, so James 'Acrylics' will have the solution, I believe a spiral upcut bit will improve the results. But been a while since I had an interest in acrylic.

Jim
 
When I was building the overflow box for my new tank, I actually used a wet tile saw because I didn't have the proper router bits or a table to mount it on. I didn't want to go buy a $100 blade for my table saw, so the wet tile saw was the next thing I tried... I tested it on a few scrap pieces first of course, but it came out almost perfect. The edges were straight, smooth, and best of all it didn't leak when I put water in it :D I was using Weld-on 16 however, not the thinner #4, just in case I had any gaps that I didn't notice.
 
You wanna use a flush cut or spiral upcut as jim mentioned....it sounds like your taking to much material off on the final cut, resulting in the ridges...you wanna cut everything within a 1/16th on a table saw before finishing the edges with a router...the less you take off the smoother it will be...a 32nd around the piece is nice...:)
 
no prob....;)
oh ya if your using a router bit with a 1/4" shank it tends to chatter more to...grab yourself a 1/2" collet and a half inch shank flushcut.....
 
before any suggestions can be made, IMO we need to know how you are doing it now and what the issue(s) is/are. Just going to a 1/2" shank will do little if the rest of your set-up isn't working.

You really don't want to sand, scrape, or do anything else to smooth the edges other than machining.

James
 
Table mounted? handheld? Are you using a fence as a guide for the router bearing or the router base? How big are the pieces? What thickness?

What are the size of the ridges? Can they be felt by hand? Are the ridges actually bumps from the router/bearing coming away from the fence?

All are important, differing answers to any one of the questions above changes the way things are done :)

James
 
it's a hand held router. I use a fence clamped to the piece for the router base. The ridges are very small and can be felt by hand.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15680310#post15680310 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 535freak
it's a hand held router. I use a fence clamped to the piece for the router base. The ridges are very small and can be felt by hand.
Often times it is nerf (shavings) getting between the base and the fence. If this is the deal, have someone blow compressed air just in front of the base as you're routing, this will blow the shavings out of the way allowing the base to glide smoothly against the fence.
I commonly route 2" acrylic this way and works well.

If this isn't the ticket, write back and we'll go to the next step :)

HTH,
James
 
well I got another problem, I got some weld-on 16 and it stickes to the edges but not to the face. Is there something I need to do to the face?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=15681330#post15681330 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by 535freak
well I got another problem, I got some weld-on 16 and it stickes to the edges but not to the face. Is there something I need to do to the face?
Sounds like you have AR or SAR acrylic (abrasion resistant or super abrasion resistant) in which case the solvent will not get through the abrasion resistant coating. If you are going to use that material, the coating must be sanded or machined off.

If it's not AR/SAR material, please lemme know :)

James
 
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