Here is my version of these relays. I have been using these since June and they have been working great! No problems with any of them, and I have 10 of them in service.
These can be used with Timers, AquaControllers, ReefKeepers and etc. It can handle any device up to 15 amps (you can get higher rated relays). This is enough amperage for MH, Chillers, Large Pumps and etc.
The power source can be a different source than that of the controller allowing you to run numerous high amp devices on one DC8. It will not draw power from your controller source (Timer, DC8, RK and etc).
These expansion blocks give the same stability to your X10 as what the DC8’s have.
Below I will include two wiring diagrams:
Version 1 can be used as a wave-maker or for turning lights on/off in reverse cycles and etc. Two devices can be controlled using one relay and one Timer, X10, DC8 or ReefKeeper plug socket. The on/off of power heads surge are very hard on X10 modules and will wear them out quickly. This is a great option and it will not wear out as quickly, and will also protect your X10 from power surges. And you only need one control device to run two power heads, lights and etc. This will free up plug sockets on your controller for other devices.
Version 2 can be used to control two devices exactly the same. I have my fan lights and my PC plugged in to use the same relay. When the lights come on, my cooling fan also comes on. Both devices run using one relay and one controller plug socket, freeing up plug sockets on your controller for other devices.
Tools needed:
Straight blade screw driver
Knife (box knife)
Wire stripper
Crimper or pliers
Parts Needed:
1. 1 - 15 Amp DpDt Relay *go to
http://www.mcmaster.com and order part #69585K58 (Compact Spade-Terminal Relay 120 Vac, 15 Amp, Dpdt, 8 Terminal, LED & Test Button) for $7.74. Radio Shack also carries a relay that can be used.
2. 1 â€"œ deep plastic nail-on single gang electric box
3. 1 â€"œ receptacle cover plate
4. 1 â€"œ 15 amp Duplex Receptacle
5. 8 â€"œ small spades (Red)
6. 1- yellow wire nut
7. Electric tape or nylon zip ties.
8. 2 â€"œ power cords *the one that will hook to the controller can be a light weight two prong plug, the other that will plug into the 120 volt outlet should be 3 prong and as heavy as the device you are going to run with it. I get cut my cords form dead appliances, cheap extension cords or if you know some one that installs computers for a business, they can usually get old computer plugs; they work great!
Steps:
1. Pull the nails from your single gang box (unless you intend to use them), if you have a control center, you can use small screws and screw them from inside the box onto your board. Knock out one hole in the bottom of the box.
2. Cut the ends from your cords.
3. Cut two 6†section form the end of the cord for a version 1 (wave maker). For version two, cut one 6â€Â. If you have other wire you can use it for the jumper wires. You will also need to keep one of the green ground wires for a jumper too.
4. Put both of your plug wires into the box. Pull the wires out about 8 inches and wrap the wires several times with electrical tap or place the zip tie here. This is to keep the wires from pulling out of the box, so you want the tap or tie to be large enough that you can’t pull the wires back out of the box.
5. Cut the material from the wires up to the tape or zip tie, so that they are all loose. Be careful not to cut into the copper wire. If you do, wrap the bare spot 2 or 3 wraps with the electric tape. Or cut the wire short enough to get rid of the bad spot and reposition your tap or zip tie accordingly.
6. Strip ¼ inch form the tips of all black and white wires. If you have a soldering gun, it is good to tine all the stranded wire tips.
7. Strip ½ inch from the tips of all green wires.
8. Crimp a red spade on all the black and white wires. (I always pull on them a bit to be sure they are secure). If you don’t have a crimper, use pliers and squeeze them as tight as you can.
9. Twist all the ground (green) wires together and twist on the yellow wire nut.
10. Label your cords so you can know after the box is closed which goes to the 120 outlet and which goes to the controller source. I use white electrical tape for this.
