Forien object in tank

minethief

New member
As a bomb disposal technician, I have lots of (inert) ordnance just lying around. If youââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve lived here in DE awhile, youââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve heard of the problem we have with clam shell driveways. Ordnance found in these driveways is recovered and destroyed by my unit. I have some of these that were empty and Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve explosively cut in half. The round is about 12ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ long and (half of) 3ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ in diameter. I think it would be cool to put half of one of these rounds in the bed of my tank, to appear as if itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s half buried.

My question is what would I coat this round with so it wonââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t poison the tank? Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d want it to be clear to show the original color, but Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m open to all options. The round is made of iron and has a copper band around it. If itââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s just a bad idea, come right out and say it. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢m a big boyââ"šÂ¬Ã‚¦.
 
Do a 2-step casting in a reefsafe material. But I'd shield the material from the thing with a layer of saran wrap to be sure nothing toxic got in.
 
If it is freshwater only, I don't see a problem. If it is salty (furture inverts a possibility), I just wouldn't do it. So, I have no helpful ideas.
: /
 
a few coats of clear epoxy paint should do the trick, but there is always a risk putting any thing copper/brass in saltwater if you ever plan on keeping an inverts
 
Materials: I'm not up on it, but there's a way of making rock with aragonite sand, and it is used in marine aquariums as a foundation or background: I don't know what the binder is. But it's out there.
 
Oh, Ive got both questions covered.

First for the ordinance, the thing to use is boat building 2 part epoxy. Not the less expensive polyester boat yard resin. that is a more permeable plastic resin that will let a bit of water migrate through it in time. but good grade epoxy from a boat shop, will be pretty much a permanent waterproof coating. two brands come to mind that i'm using to build a little dinghy . WEST SYSTEMS, is one ofthe best, and expesive. but you dont need much. and CLEAR COTE, a more reasonable mix. both clear , strong and water proof. nothing gets in to corrode the item. and nothing gets out to the tank.

theres probably a BOAT US, or WEST MARINE store down there, or the local boatyard.
http://www.boatus-store.com/webapp/...ryg/20002/-1/20002/674/11160/4/man/asc/0/grid

as for Sk8r's question. the binder is portland cement. check the DIY section of GEOTHERMAL AUQACULTURE RESEARCH FOUNDATION otherwise known as GARF. for the way to make your own rock and frag plugs. Ive made my own frag rock. making them is easy, but it takes some time to cure them to lower the PH.
http://www.garf.org/

hope that helps..

kaptken
 
That looks like the stuff I need. Thanks for the reply. I have a few old civil war cannon shot that Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢ve encapsulated in epoxy, but I donââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢t think the epoxy is marine quality. I just do it because they tend to flake apart after a few years of sitting out. I like the DIY rock on the GARF site. Iââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢d like to try that and put it in a tank around some live rock and see what crawls on.javascript:smilie(';)')
wink
 
Yeah, making rock or frag plugs is a good idea. if you do a little reading on the process on GARF , you might find that Leroy prefers using a white grout type cement rather than regular portland. it also comes in smaller 5 pound boxes rather than 50 pound bags like portland. just be sure its pure simple grout cement, and not spiked with sand, additives or anti fungals. the difference , he claims is its less caustic and takes less time to cure and nuetralize than portland cement. just remember it has to be soaked in fresh water for a month or two perhaps with some vinegar . otherwise if you put it in your tank too soon, you PH might go upt to 10 or12. depending how much you add. but after its cured and nuetralized, no problem, it will harbor bacteria, critters and worms and coraline. and of course SPS frags you super glue onto them.
 
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